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Archive through November 15, 2012
- Thread starter tstewart
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Michael A. Miller
If they are sticking , first soak them in diesel fuel . I found that will get them working Then spray them with paint will work after you clean the outside and wipe away the diesel so the paint will say on. btdt
If they are sticking , first soak them in diesel fuel . I found that will get them working Then spray them with paint will work after you clean the outside and wipe away the diesel so the paint will say on. btdt
My duals are made to look like DMI duals. As my dad mentioned I've never had anything twist on them. Here's a close up pic. I just cut out the center of the rim.
As my dad mentioned I might have been better off without duals this year while pulling the sled at Glenn Peterson's Arkansaw Plow day... The ground was really hard and I think I did not get enough traction to the ground. Meaning I had too much surface area and it allowed me to spin out on top of the hard soil versus digging in. My dad's 104 out pulled me by a several feet with 10.5 Ag tires on. I was scratching my head on this but I'm sure Dennis Frisk or someone can explain it... The 1600 pound weight was a year ago, this year I did not have the extra weight bars, wheelie bars etc, so weight of his 104 and my 122 were comparatively close.
As my dad mentioned I might have been better off without duals this year while pulling the sled at Glenn Peterson's Arkansaw Plow day... The ground was really hard and I think I did not get enough traction to the ground. Meaning I had too much surface area and it allowed me to spin out on top of the hard soil versus digging in. My dad's 104 out pulled me by a several feet with 10.5 Ag tires on. I was scratching my head on this but I'm sure Dennis Frisk or someone can explain it... The 1600 pound weight was a year ago, this year I did not have the extra weight bars, wheelie bars etc, so weight of his 104 and my 122 were comparatively close.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis: I 'm still trying to figure out what jobs you guys can't do with a hydro.. I can pull a 15 foot enclosed trailer loaded with three scooters (or recently with the Harley and all the junk that came south, which figured out to be about 3000# GVW)... Level ground speed is where ever I set the throttle and "hydro control lever" (not sure what else to call it..). Maybe you need to go through the hydro, clean up the linkage and set the friction block on it.. As far as pushing snow around with a blade - you really prefer shifting a stick shift in and out of gears to effortlessly moving the hydro control back and forth?? (And the 129 hasn't "marked it's territory" since I did the gasket replacement - maybe because I used that strawberry scented gasket sealer on my replacement gasket..)
Alright, I will admit to a soft spot in my heart for an "O" with a blade - my best friend's folks had a long blacktop driveway with a teardrop circle by the house... The winters of '62, '63 and '64, we were "allowed" to keep the driveway open for Bruce's mom and dad, who were professional types and not home a lot.... First time I ever experienced the negative results of "ramming speed" (steering wheel in the gut) was running the "O" into a snow bank that had frozen to solid ice.....(c'mon, Harry, we need the big guns here)
Alright, I will admit to a soft spot in my heart for an "O" with a blade - my best friend's folks had a long blacktop driveway with a teardrop circle by the house... The winters of '62, '63 and '64, we were "allowed" to keep the driveway open for Bruce's mom and dad, who were professional types and not home a lot.... First time I ever experienced the negative results of "ramming speed" (steering wheel in the gut) was running the "O" into a snow bank that had frozen to solid ice.....(c'mon, Harry, we need the big guns here)
Hydrostatics get my vote.
I have the gear drive Original that I plow with for fun. But I prefer to till the garden with the MTD walk behind rear tine tiller. I do the mowing and snow removal with the 125. If I ever finish up refurbishing the timed deck and non-spring trip blade for the Original I might try it for those duties but it'd be just to see how it does. Then again, I might not want to mess up the fresh paint...
DON My yard is around two acres with 70-80 trees & bushes to trim around. Too small to row crop but too large to manicure unless you really like yard work.
I'm going to go over most of the yard again this afternoon for the second time.
GERRY - The hydro in the 982 is in good shape, trunnion was repaired 5-6 yrs ago, unfortunately I didn't replace the cork gasket because I needed to get the thing back together. Replacing the cork gasket on a 982 is about FOUR times as much work as on a smaller CC. The 3-pt & rear PTO has to be removed to even get to the rear cover. Fluid & filter has about 150 hours on it. I use the 982 to pull the big dump trailer most of the time. Loaded with rock or dirt weighs 3000# and I've pulled up some slopes with no problem, half throttle and about half way up on the hydro. Pulling the cart off the sleeve hitch adapter on the 3-pt a load like that lifts the frt wheels off the ground if I'm not careful.
It's not so much that a hydro can't do those types of jobs, it's the fact I enjoy running the gear drives when doing them. When I get done mowing with the 982 the rearend is warm, very warm, but not quite hot, but after pulling the aerator for 3-4 hours the rearend of the 72 is cold.
For plowing snow and grading I normally raise the blade and continue forward till the blade empties snd turn around if I can, but even if I can't, I just stab the clutch, quick shift into reverse and I'm backing up. So, Yes, I do prefer to clutch & shift as opposed to simply moving a lever. Just so you know, my pickup with over 300,000 miles has a manual 5-spd, and my commuter car with 122,000 miles has a manual 6-spd. My last three trucks also had manual 4-spds, and for nine years my wife even drove a Mustang GT with a manual 5-spd. My wife finally put her foot down in '98 and said she wanted an automatic. So it's not just my tractors that I prefer manual trans on.
I'm going to go over most of the yard again this afternoon for the second time.
GERRY - The hydro in the 982 is in good shape, trunnion was repaired 5-6 yrs ago, unfortunately I didn't replace the cork gasket because I needed to get the thing back together. Replacing the cork gasket on a 982 is about FOUR times as much work as on a smaller CC. The 3-pt & rear PTO has to be removed to even get to the rear cover. Fluid & filter has about 150 hours on it. I use the 982 to pull the big dump trailer most of the time. Loaded with rock or dirt weighs 3000# and I've pulled up some slopes with no problem, half throttle and about half way up on the hydro. Pulling the cart off the sleeve hitch adapter on the 3-pt a load like that lifts the frt wheels off the ground if I'm not careful.
It's not so much that a hydro can't do those types of jobs, it's the fact I enjoy running the gear drives when doing them. When I get done mowing with the 982 the rearend is warm, very warm, but not quite hot, but after pulling the aerator for 3-4 hours the rearend of the 72 is cold.
For plowing snow and grading I normally raise the blade and continue forward till the blade empties snd turn around if I can, but even if I can't, I just stab the clutch, quick shift into reverse and I'm backing up. So, Yes, I do prefer to clutch & shift as opposed to simply moving a lever. Just so you know, my pickup with over 300,000 miles has a manual 5-spd, and my commuter car with 122,000 miles has a manual 6-spd. My last three trucks also had manual 4-spds, and for nine years my wife even drove a Mustang GT with a manual 5-spd. My wife finally put her foot down in '98 and said she wanted an automatic. So it's not just my tractors that I prefer manual trans on.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I like a GD as much as the next guy and I had a 582 that I regret selling, BUT with the hydro comes 2 BIG extras......HYD LIFT, and Power Steering.......placing me in the HYDRO fan club.
If you can't run a SGT, run a 782, if you can't run a 782 run a 149....anything else and you are in the state of "Decline" that Kraig is always posting about......
I do have a soft spot for 100's and 582's, possibly a 128, but my shed is currently all HYDRO, DUAL HYD. LIFT, & POWER STEERING....and I like it!!!!
If you can't run a SGT, run a 782, if you can't run a 782 run a 149....anything else and you are in the state of "Decline" that Kraig is always posting about......
I do have a soft spot for 100's and 582's, possibly a 128, but my shed is currently all HYDRO, DUAL HYD. LIFT, & POWER STEERING....and I like it!!!!
Denny
I got my pulley back for the shop. we could not use the sold pulley you mentioned because of it`s size and I don`t have room for that much adjustment . So seems my pulley was wore loose fitting on the hard shaft of the pump and we think that was my problem with it coming off. So the shop drilled out the pulley and welded in a hard sleeve and new key way with two set screws.He thought the hard shaft of the pump now will not cause this problem again with the hard sleeve. I have hopes this will work.
I got my pulley back for the shop. we could not use the sold pulley you mentioned because of it`s size and I don`t have room for that much adjustment . So seems my pulley was wore loose fitting on the hard shaft of the pump and we think that was my problem with it coming off. So the shop drilled out the pulley and welded in a hard sleeve and new key way with two set screws.He thought the hard shaft of the pump now will not cause this problem again with the hard sleeve. I have hopes this will work.
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"
I have to agree with you on the hydro tractors. I will soon have a 125 to use along with my 149 and 147 . I have my 100 when I want to use a gd tractor or two Originals . But I use my diesel the most of all because it has all the good things that I added.Power steering will go on the 129 loader this winter if I can find time to fit it in .
I have to agree with you on the hydro tractors. I will soon have a 125 to use along with my 149 and 147 . I have my 100 when I want to use a gd tractor or two Originals . But I use my diesel the most of all because it has all the good things that I added.Power steering will go on the 129 loader this winter if I can find time to fit it in .
Vincent....Thanks for the info, " AGAIN " lol Them duals on the back look really good, I understand ans see how you cut the cents out of the rim,my question is,,do you have some type of spacer between the two rims or did you just mount it as is with the threaded rod and nuts. Also once you cut the centers off the rim,are the tabs by themselves strong enough to hold up or do you have to do a lil welding and reinforcement? I'm very currious how you did that, they look really good.
As far as the clutch spring goes , I think I'm just going to leave it stock, I'm going to get a new spring and call it a day.Since I dont pull it, or plan on doing any heavy duty yard work with it,theres no sense in getting a heavier spring, then have to worry about tearin up the to bearing.
As far as the clutch spring goes , I think I'm just going to leave it stock, I'm going to get a new spring and call it a day.Since I dont pull it, or plan on doing any heavy duty yard work with it,theres no sense in getting a heavier spring, then have to worry about tearin up the to bearing.
I have a 1 5/8" spacer or 1 3/4" spacer between the rims - something I found from a Cub Cadet guy a few years ago. There is no re-enforcement, just the left behind tabs from the cut off center. I can say I do not use these much. It's really wide with the duals on. I put on the left dual while plowing or when I go to a plow day event. Much of the day it is barely touching the due to the angle of the Cub Cadet when the right tire is in the furrow. I have pulled a sled several times with the duals on and I've yet to see any twisting, slippage, or anything.
And yes for your clutch get a new regular spring, grind the clutch pressure plates to be true and you'll have no problems.
And yes for your clutch get a new regular spring, grind the clutch pressure plates to be true and you'll have no problems.
I prefer my Gear drives for plowing and most ground engaging work, my 122, and 1000 are prefect for this.
My Hydro 125 is my main mowing Cub, I really prefer a hydro for mowing! I have a rear blade and a Scoop-Tote that I really like to use and the hydro with hydro lift works best for these!
My Hydro 125 is my main mowing Cub, I really prefer a hydro for mowing! I have a rear blade and a Scoop-Tote that I really like to use and the hydro with hydro lift works best for these!
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Jeff - sorry I've been gone a few days and had no pc connection. Sure got the fever shakes bad and trying to catch up on the ole yellar and white to calm it down. Don't quite get the story on the GD vs. Hydro going on again. That's been settled many times, and always always always won by the Hydros.
I also saw your post about your son signing with the Marines. That is one tough impressive organization. I'm certain you're very proud and I'm glad you made us aware. I was a Navy Corpsman from '69-79 and although I never went Fleet Marine or made it to Nam, I did meet many Marines over my tour, including the Commandant. I have quite a respect for the organization we always put out there first when we need them. They are the best.
Charlie - when I was catching up I saw your 107 flags. That's gotta be very difficult to live with and I surely appreciate what you do in remembering those 107. I'm so glad at least most of our country now sees our military for what it really is and does. War is hell, always is and always will be. We must remember.
I also saw your post about your son signing with the Marines. That is one tough impressive organization. I'm certain you're very proud and I'm glad you made us aware. I was a Navy Corpsman from '69-79 and although I never went Fleet Marine or made it to Nam, I did meet many Marines over my tour, including the Commandant. I have quite a respect for the organization we always put out there first when we need them. They are the best.
Charlie - when I was catching up I saw your 107 flags. That's gotta be very difficult to live with and I surely appreciate what you do in remembering those 107. I'm so glad at least most of our country now sees our military for what it really is and does. War is hell, always is and always will be. We must remember.
STEVE B brings out a good thing Hydro's have in their favor, the ease of getting hyd. lift, plus if you're lucky and industrious like Steve, power steering is a real nice feature.
VINCE - The spacer bands of full size clamp-on tractor duals are actually tapered into a conical shape on the side that engages the bead of the prime wheel on the tractor, the turnbuckles or clamp bolts force the spacer ring in hard enough that it transmits all the torque and load to the tractor wheel and all the bolts/turnbuckles do is hold the dual on tight. It was somewhat common for the old cast centers on IH tractors to crack the cast center if clamp-on duals were used a lot in certain situations, like plowing closed or finishing dead furrows when plowing. Lots of times the dual was the only tire on the ground and that was a lot of added stress to the cast center. When IH came out with the Wedge-loc wheels on the 56-series tractors they were cast much stronger and they were made available to retrofit all the way back to the 706/806, anything with 3-1/4", 3-1/2", & 4" axle bars. Unfortunately there was no wedge-loc ever made for the 2-1/2" & 2-3/4" axles used on everything from H's up to 450/560/656/686 sized tractors.
DON - Since your pulley was staying on shorter periods of time the longer you ran it, I agree with the worn bore in the pulley. The welding probably "Normalized" the hardening of the new hub your machinist welded in, but I think it should work.
VINCE - The spacer bands of full size clamp-on tractor duals are actually tapered into a conical shape on the side that engages the bead of the prime wheel on the tractor, the turnbuckles or clamp bolts force the spacer ring in hard enough that it transmits all the torque and load to the tractor wheel and all the bolts/turnbuckles do is hold the dual on tight. It was somewhat common for the old cast centers on IH tractors to crack the cast center if clamp-on duals were used a lot in certain situations, like plowing closed or finishing dead furrows when plowing. Lots of times the dual was the only tire on the ground and that was a lot of added stress to the cast center. When IH came out with the Wedge-loc wheels on the 56-series tractors they were cast much stronger and they were made available to retrofit all the way back to the 706/806, anything with 3-1/4", 3-1/2", & 4" axle bars. Unfortunately there was no wedge-loc ever made for the 2-1/2" & 2-3/4" axles used on everything from H's up to 450/560/656/686 sized tractors.
DON - Since your pulley was staying on shorter periods of time the longer you ran it, I agree with the worn bore in the pulley. The welding probably "Normalized" the hardening of the new hub your machinist welded in, but I think it should work.
Dennis Frisk
I will put the pulley back on this am and do have hopes it will stay in place.I hope the welding did not soften the hardened sleeve that I will have this wear issue again
.The pulley does now fit the pump a lot tighter than it did. It will me nice to have my loader running again !
I will put the pulley back on this am and do have hopes it will stay in place.I hope the welding did not soften the hardened sleeve that I will have this wear issue again
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Don - I know that you've got a solution to the pulley problem at least for now, but I'm scratching my head a little on why you couldn't use a solid pulley - what is the pump shaft length/diameter and how far out does the center of the sheave have to be from the base of the shaft? I'd like to explore the options a little and see what is available that would work for you - I honestly believe a sold pulley with a tapered split clamping would work better as when it's tightened up, there is no clearance at all between the hub ID and the shaft - it's the same as a press fit, with the addition of the key. I think the application I'm using one on is more demanding than the pump ( 18 horse VTwin driving a transmission propelling about 500 pounds of weight between the scoot and me).
Gerry Ide
Some more picture might help.
The shaft length is 1 5/8 " 1/2" . Some of that length is used up from the belt tensioner , so the pulley must be thin for this all to fit. Here is another of the pulley hardened sleeve from the back side.
Some more picture might help.
The shaft length is 1 5/8 " 1/2" . Some of that length is used up from the belt tensioner , so the pulley must be thin for this all to fit. Here is another of the pulley hardened sleeve from the back side.
