Archive through November 14, 2018

[wshytle]

Mike (and Frank)-

I assume you adjusted the valves recently with the other work you had done. I can't see a head gasket causing the symptoms you're experiencing. I totally agree with Luther and the importance of the timing being spot on. .020 is just a starting point on most Kohlers. I'm not sure I've ever had one end up at .020 after static timing. It seems they all vary.

And Frank-

I'm just having a little fun in the "garage".

.

 

[klorenz]

Mike,
I wonder if the ACR is functioning like it should. I had a 12hp that had the same symptoms. ACR was not working. One end of the actuating spring was not hooked up on the camshaft. Just an idea.

 

[mfrade]

Thanks for the "tips" guys... this engine was overhauled and has barely 2 hours on it. It was static timed and it was at .016" thou if I remember right. On a earlier suggestion I replaced the ACR spring with a new one. It didn't help. I'm thinking I'll delay the spark a bit and re-adjust the points back to .020 thou. It may help the motor rev before firing the cylinder.

 

[klorenz]

Mike,
Not to beat a dead horse here, but was the ACR checked to make sure it was actually keeping the valve open before the head was bolted on? Tab on camshaft may need adjusting. Timing, ACR, weak generator, or weak battery are about the only things that usually cause the spin-stop, spin-stop condition. If its chirping the generator belt when this happens, then battery/generator has plenty of power. That 16hp's compression bringing it to a stop. Just my experience--take it for what it's worth-- bout 2 cents!

 

[dschwandt]

Got the pivot brackets fabbed up today.
Should get the new bucket wrapped up this weekend.

 

[mfrade]

Kirk, YES it does chirp the belt! I even pulled the S.G. belt tighter to stop the slipping but it still chirps. The valve is held open and the motor spins ok until the valve is closed and the cylinder "hits". Last year I started to search out how to adjust the tab on the cam, didn't get there yet tho'..

 

[fcurrier]

Mike, I think you're overthinking this. About the only thing that scares me more than the fragility of the connecting rod dipper is that tab you're thinking of. It'll all come together - these old Kohlers aren't rocket science. I just hope that when she starts first flop that you're not too embarrassed to tell us what a simple problem it was.

P.S. That chirp comes around when the engine "kicks back" against the CCW rotation of the S/G.

 

[danderson]

Mike:
1. Check tapper clearances and adjust as necessary.
2. Remove head and turn engine by hand until you reach BDC of the intake stroke.
3. Mount dial indicator on your op of the exhaust valve and set to 0.
4. Slowly turn flywheel clockwise and watch the dial indicator. When piston is about 2/3 of the way up the cylinder the exhaust valve should open for ARC. Exhaust valve opening as indicated on the dial indicator should be .031-.042.
5. If the valve was above .042, hold a wooden dowel or peg on the top of the valve and tap it down carefully to within the range. If the valve was below .031, remove the cam cover and bend the tab upward until the valve is within range.
Caution must be exercised in the bending of the tab as it is hardened and may crack or break if bent back and forth more than 3 or 4 times.
Engines 9006118 and after can’t be adjusted.
This from the Kohler manual.
That serial number puts engines 1978 and after as non-adjustable. I had one break offf on its own.

 

[jstorma]

David, That's some nice fab work there. Hoping you will show us the completed project.

 

[mhorozko]

Got them lights in today, Thanx, Charlie