Archive through November 13, 2006

[digger]

Matt G.
CLICK HERE
You will find this,

I pay something like 6 bucks each for the heavy duty mule drive pulleys at my Cub dealer.

 

[digger]

<font color="ff0000">BTW, guys and gals.
make sure and use this link</font> CLICK HERE to look up parts and information.

We gotta let the BIG BOYS know that we're using the test site to the fullest and that we appreciate them for letting us too.

 

[bbranstetter]

Hey everyone,

The Tru Powers are looking great on the 122!!

But now that I can keep the tires up I've got another problem to tackle, my s/g is shot or so I'm thinking. It charges great, I've added a new hi amp battery, new regulator as past fix it items. The grounds have been cleaned and I've added a new hd style solenoid and pos cable, not to leave out stainless bolts at the battery just for good measure. I've tried jumping 12v right to it and it doesn't seem to matter.

I'm inclined to think maybe I should break in to the little bugger and see what father time has done to take it's toll. Bearings seem good and turns free, what do you think? Are these very tough to service, other than cleaning and replacing worn parts? Anything to look out for when pulling one open?

Thanks for any input

 

[bbrusewitz]

How do I identify the model?

<font color="ff0000"> Lets remember to hit the enter key after each pic. ;-P

</font>

 

[digger]

Bruce B.
Looks like a QA36A to me.

 

[bhjohnson]

Can someone confirm if the rear sleeve hitch assy is the same for both a 1650 and a 149?

 

[enei]

Kraig and J. Michael,

Thank you. I'm back in town and I think we figured it out. I have the right belt for the QA-42A, but my lift bar comes up 1" short of what Michael has; 1/2" X 26 center to center is what mine measures. I'm surprised that one inch difference in length becomes several inches of lift on the snowblower. So, mystery is solved and for this year I'll just have to be careful about how high I lift the blower. That is, unless someone is interested in swapping a 26" for a 27" lift rod. Thanks again for your help.

 

[digger]

Brian J.
As long as the 1650 is not a later model that has the nuts welded to the inside of the frame, I don't remember the serial number break, they are the same.

 

[speterson]

Eric,
My lift rod is adjustable. I don't know if it's stock as it looks different from the one at cc specialties,
but it would be very simple to convert yours to work like mine.
Basically the rod is cut and fitted into what looks sort of like the
front wheel spacer with some holes drilled in it to allow different lengths.
Hope this makes some sense and that the pics help.
~Shane

Adjustable lift rod from CC Specialities

My lift rod. Notice cotter pins.

 

[bbranstetter]

Sorry,

I forgot to mention in my previous post that my problem can be intermittent. Sometimes if you help it along it will 'catch' and will motor on it's own, as if it were ok. My cub never sits in the weather but I did notice that after sitting on the trailer for a few days under a tarp that my problems came back. It most often sits in the garage making for fewer problems, it also seems to subside after getting is started again.

Hope I havent hijacked the thread. Thanks again for everones help!

 

[rbedell]

Brian B:

The situation with your S/G, sounds like an internal problem within.

I my line of work (HVAC/R), I ocasionally run across motors that won't start. By rotating the shaft (or pulley) the motor will start right up. In our world, it is called a "dead spot" within the motor (Armature dead spot).

With that in mind, since the S/G is considered a starting motor, I suspose that condition could exist as well. My suggestion would be to remove the S/G, and take this to your favorite local repair shop for their input.

 

[bmcmeen]

I think the S/G problem is that it's too big to fit on the screen.

Really, while we have upped the file size limit, let's not get carried away with posting 1600x1200 pictures. A quality 640x480 image should show more than enough detail and won't cause all this horizontal scrolling. Save the hi-res pics for sending to Kraig

 

[kmcconaughey]

Eric, good to hear that the mystery has been solved. A lift rod is an easy thing to make, go to a hardware store and buy a 3' length of 1/2" steel rod. Heat up one end with a torch then quickly insert it into a vise and bend it over, use a hammer to get a tight 90° bend. Be sure to make the bend at the proper length so that the end is long enough but not too long for inserting into the lift point. Then measure it out for the overall length that you want and heat and bend the second end. Then cut the second end to the proper length and finally drill the holes for the hairpin clips.

 

[dfrisk]

Charlie, JEFF - I run a small car battery in My NF tractors, the 70 & 72...I think it's a group 26, about 545 cold cranking amps. In My WF tractor, the 982 I still run the dinky lawn & garden tractor battery, I think it's only 260 or 300 cca. The generator will only replace the amps taken from the electrical system. As long as Your electrical load doesn't exceed the charging capacity of Your generator Your O-K....if the load does exceed charging capacity them You drain the charge in Your battery until the time the load is reduced. Unless Your running a Boat-load of lights Your S/G doesn't care how big a battery it's charging, Your voltage regulator will reduce the charging amount once the battery gets fully charged.

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

Amen. For a while there I was cranking out lift rods left and right. Don't even need MAPP - propane works just fine, it just takes a bit longer.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Now that Bryan has brought the topic up. I've been limiting myself to posting of photos of "whatever high" by 800 wide, has anyone noticed if this is too wide for your screen? If so I'll impose smaller photo sizes on myself. Here's a 600x800 photo for an example:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Car battery in a Cub Cadet..... This setup was on my #2 125 when I bought it, no problems with the charging system, no problems running 4 GE4411 headlights and a strobelight either. Ugly but effective.

 

[rwilke]

Kraig,
Sorry to request extra work from ya, but with your "Stars & Stripes Cub" pic, I have to scroll horizonally ~1/2" and vertically ~2", which is kinda a nuisance to do, as Bryan mentioned earlier. The pic Bryan posted is nearly full screen on my monitor and doesn't require any > or ^ scrolling & is VERY clear. Thanks!

RW

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, OK, from now on I'll try to limit myself to only 640 wide photos, I may sneak a few 700 wide photos in now and then though.

BTW, that photo of my #2 125 with the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Wondbreaker cab is 704 wide.

 

[enei]

Kraig,

Funny you should mention this simple fab. I was planning to go to our local Ace Hardprice store during lunch to pick up some rod. I've worked with metal only a bit less than with Cub Cadets, and you all know how new I am to this hobbie. I'm getting a little worried, as is my wife. My father in law gave me a angle grinder with a bunch a wheels. I've been unexplicably finding myself looking at all sorts of tools, including welders, air compressors, jack stands, wrenches etc. Then there is this new thing where I crane my neck to get a glimpse behind garages and barns for hints of yellow and red. I've heard it mentioned here. Is this the start of Cub Fever? Is it terminal?