Archive through November 11, 2007

[cbusch]

A hot engine dissolves the tar and allows it to flow out the drain. But, a cold oil change is better than no oil change, especially if the oil is black!

 

[rkrueger]

Hello, does anybody know the correct length and width tire chains should be for 23x8.50x12 tires? Thanks!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, I don't, but I'm planning on installing my chains on my Cub Cadet 125 tonight and it has 23x8.50x12 tires. If you don't get an answer today I'll measure mine this evening when I lay them out.

 

[jmcdonald]

FWIW Art,

I have a set of dual wheel adapters, yellow, with 5 "IH" stamped bolts in them, just like in the photo you attached. Came with a 100 I bought about 6 years ago.

Jim

 

[rkrueger]

Thanks alot Kraig!! That would be great.

 

[aaytay]

Jim-
That's interesting info, thanks for passing it along. Kind of makes me wonder if they just figured you'd put the 1st rim AND the dual-adaptor up and bolt them on with flat bolts. That wouldn't be real nice on the rims, but I suppose it would work.

Another supporting element to that theory is that the Hoefler-Made units are shorter than the genuine <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> adaptors by the thickness of the lug-nuts on those studs!

Does anybody have an early-version of the CPE-2??

Wyatt-
Thanks for posting that CAD-scan, but why the double-chamfer on those lug-nuts? It would be mounted with one chamfer in the (1st) rim, and the other against the flat face on the back of the adaptor the adaptor, which doesn't make sense...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, why didn't I think of this when you first asked me if I had a Dual Wheel Spacer Installation Manual?

Here's an excerpt from the TC-113 aka "Original Parts Manual":

 

[dtanner]

Morning all, could some kind Cubber post me a picture or more of a rear scraper blade for a 149. i bought 1 and want to see how it conects. thanks Don

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - Wouldn't this be more accurate ...

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, why, yes it would. <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> should have employed you to do their drawings.

Donald, do you know if it is an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> scraper blade? I'll post some pics of the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> blade/rake combo and of a Brinly grader blade in a bit. I have to get some actual work down right now....

 

[csanderson]

Art- It would appear, from Kraig's picture, that your Hoefler-made addapters have the correct additional hardware, and your IH addapters just have an additional set of regular wheel bolts.Although it's good that you've got the IH marked bolts, it's the addapter studs that you've gotta add to your set up. (jmho)

 

[dtanner]

Kraig its a IH rear scraper i`am told and want it to lift with the hyd lift on the 149. Thanks Don

 

[kmcconaughey]

Donald, if it is an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> blade you'll need a rear lift but you will not need the Brinly sleeve hitch adapter. Here are some photos of one and some pages from the manual.

 

[aaytay]

Curtis-
Yes, but the bolts that are in these adaptors are just regular bolts, not actual lug bolts with the taper on the backside of the head.

Either way, I think Kraig's (Ken's?) drawing from the TC-113 lays to rest the entire situation.

Thanks for the help guys. Now it's someone else's turn to come up with a pointless question...

 

[kmcconaughey]

While not pointless, it is a question... Can someone measure the length of the A-frame portion of an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> dozer blade for me? Specifically, between the points indicated in this photo. Please.

I need to know the best length at which to cut that MTD blade subframe that I have. (I see <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> calls it the "main frame") TIA

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Mines 16 1/4" center to center with the tape laying flat on the mount.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig thanks a bunch ,I have a the Brinly sleeve hitch adapter and just wanted to see how it worked or looked on a cub. i see in your post how it works now all i have to do is paint this.thanks Don

 

[digger]

Don T.
You don't use any of the sleeve hitch adapter with that style of rear blade. It attaches to the U bracket and the lift pin.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig looking closer at your post i see i don`t have to paint my sleeve hitch for the plow it conects on the bracket on the rearend and needs a long pin to conect it. thanks again Don

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, thanks!!

Donald, correct for an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> rear grader blade you do not need the sleeve hitch adapter. <blink>However</blink>, for a plow and/or a Brinly, or AgriFab or some other brand sleeve hitch type grader blade you do need the sleeve hitch adapter.

FWIW, I would have to say that on this and most garden tractor forums the following terminology is used: A "plow" is a turning plow for use in a garden or field. A "dozer blade" or "blade" is a front mounted snow or dirt blade, could also be called a "snow plow" but not just a "plow". A "grader blade" is a rear mounted blade used for leveling driveways, etc.. A "belly blade" is a mid-mount grader blade used again for leveling driveways, etc. Of course there is also a "box blade" which is a rear mount blade similar to a "grader blade" except that it has side plates and is not angled and it might also have ripper teeth. A "box blade" is also used for leveling driveways, etc.

Under edit: an Earthcavator is a brand of box blade.