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Archive through November 11, 2004
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
The 1961 Cub Cadet We had the mulch plate AND the pulley covers were both yellow. I think Dad still has the mulch plate in the canvas/burlap bag it was in when delivered with the tractor. Sure wish We had some color pictures if it....
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Finished the drive shaft upgrade modification on my 1450 and since I'm a shade tree mechanic I thought you might like to see some of the steps, and maybe I can sneak in a piece of cardboard on you.
Had to build a jig to be able to drill the holes in the drive shaft. Used some scrap iron and an old drive shaft coupler. I clamp it in my drill press line it up then insert the shaft and drill it.
Since this is an early 1450 it uses the 5/8 ball in the rear coupler so I had to cut the indentation in the shaft rear end so I got to use my metal lathe. I used standard rag joint couplers and one of the old 1xx flex couplers and one of the newer quietline flex couplers. You have to use one of the newer ones to fit in the coupler and then you can use one of the older ones that are stronger to back it up.
The rear coupler installed with the double flex rubbers. Since the dimensions change on the bolts I had to go to a 1/2 height lock nut or else use a long bolt which I did on the front and it looks crappy.
The front coupler with the double flex joints. I had already installed the long bolts here and didn't want to tear everything apart so they will stay until next time I have it apart and then I will go with the shorter bolts and the 1/2 height lock nuts, or check with a large bolt company to get the correct size bolts. I've noticed IH liked to use some odd size bolts.
Now I am ready to fill the hydro and give it a good test. It should prevent the oblong wear on the rag joints and I hope it doesn't add vibration to the shaft.
Had to build a jig to be able to drill the holes in the drive shaft. Used some scrap iron and an old drive shaft coupler. I clamp it in my drill press line it up then insert the shaft and drill it.
Since this is an early 1450 it uses the 5/8 ball in the rear coupler so I had to cut the indentation in the shaft rear end so I got to use my metal lathe. I used standard rag joint couplers and one of the old 1xx flex couplers and one of the newer quietline flex couplers. You have to use one of the newer ones to fit in the coupler and then you can use one of the older ones that are stronger to back it up.
The rear coupler installed with the double flex rubbers. Since the dimensions change on the bolts I had to go to a 1/2 height lock nut or else use a long bolt which I did on the front and it looks crappy.
The front coupler with the double flex joints. I had already installed the long bolts here and didn't want to tear everything apart so they will stay until next time I have it apart and then I will go with the shorter bolts and the 1/2 height lock nuts, or check with a large bolt company to get the correct size bolts. I've noticed IH liked to use some odd size bolts.
Now I am ready to fill the hydro and give it a good test. It should prevent the oblong wear on the rag joints and I hope it doesn't add vibration to the shaft.
Steve B. You're partly right!
I do have a blue & white 123! But there isn't a deck on it right now at least!
If you need a photo of the carriage I use with the 44 deck, I'll take one an post it. It's in the next room here.
I had it out this afternoon using the roller and then drained the water out of the roller so it won't freeze tonight. Supposed to get really cold. "Getting ready for Winter! "
I think today being Veterans Day this is a good day to post this photo in honor of all the Veterans that served our country & the good ol' Red, White & Blue!
(Message edited by jlang on November 11, 2004)
I do have a blue & white 123! But there isn't a deck on it right now at least!
I had it out this afternoon using the roller and then drained the water out of the roller so it won't freeze tonight. Supposed to get really cold. "Getting ready for Winter! "
I think today being Veterans Day this is a good day to post this photo in honor of all the Veterans that served our country & the good ol' Red, White & Blue!
(Message edited by jlang on November 11, 2004)
}I hope someone here can help (I am a new Cub Cadet owner). I have a 1250 Hydrostatic that is not currently running. I need to move it about 100 feet to work on it and know that it's not supposed to be "towed". What is the proper/easiest way to move it? Thanks... Mark
Mark M,
The proper/easiest way would be to lift the rear end up and move it that way.
BUT, if your 1250 have the lever on the side of the tunnel cover and the flapper is not broken off and or missing, lift the lever to release the valves and push it around that way. If it has automatic release valves, byt that I mean one's that do not have the little buttons in the centers. After setting, they will bleed down and you can move it that way.
Rumor and manuals say your not supposed to pull them very far, BUT, believe me, it won't hurt to pull it. Some guys even pull'um at HIGH SPEED!
And I mean HIGH SPEED!
The proper/easiest way would be to lift the rear end up and move it that way.
BUT, if your 1250 have the lever on the side of the tunnel cover and the flapper is not broken off and or missing, lift the lever to release the valves and push it around that way. If it has automatic release valves, byt that I mean one's that do not have the little buttons in the centers. After setting, they will bleed down and you can move it that way.
Rumor and manuals say your not supposed to pull them very far, BUT, believe me, it won't hurt to pull it. Some guys even pull'um at HIGH SPEED!
And I mean HIGH SPEED!
Well I think I am ready for snow season th begin.
got the new electric lift installed on the 122.
chains and weights,
and gave it a test run in the garden.
Got the 23-10.50-12 on the 102,
upgraded to 1" front spindles,
all thats left to do is hook up the back blade.
Oh yeh, got the 3235 ready for snow season also.
Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.
got the new electric lift installed on the 122.
chains and weights,
and gave it a test run in the garden.
Got the 23-10.50-12 on the 102,
upgraded to 1" front spindles,
all thats left to do is hook up the back blade.
Oh yeh, got the 3235 ready for snow season also.
Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.
tschweizer
Well-known member
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- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Charlie, you wimp. IT wasn't that fast!!
Richard C.,
Nice job on the flex couplings and new drive shaft. I appreciate all of your contributions to hydro upgrades.
I'd never classify you as a shade tree mechanic!
Nice job on the flex couplings and new drive shaft. I appreciate all of your contributions to hydro upgrades.
I'd never classify you as a shade tree mechanic!
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
John G.
I used a piece of 5/8 cold rolled steel for the drive shaft. When I am satisfied with it I am probably going to make one out of 4140 steel that I ordered. The 4140 is pretty expensive so I want to make my mistakes on something cheaper.
Mark M.
I wouldn't worry about towing a hydro for a short distance but I wouldn't tow one fast or for long distances. I asked the shop manager of my local Cub dealer the other day what he had seen in the way of hydro failures. He said mostly just seal replacement but he had seen more than one destroyed by towing with a pickup. This is what breaks, the little brass ends go all to pieces. I've heard tell you can accomplish the same thing if your cub accidently rolls off the back of your trailer while going down the highway.
I used a piece of 5/8 cold rolled steel for the drive shaft. When I am satisfied with it I am probably going to make one out of 4140 steel that I ordered. The 4140 is pretty expensive so I want to make my mistakes on something cheaper.
Mark M.
I wouldn't worry about towing a hydro for a short distance but I wouldn't tow one fast or for long distances. I asked the shop manager of my local Cub dealer the other day what he had seen in the way of hydro failures. He said mostly just seal replacement but he had seen more than one destroyed by towing with a pickup. This is what breaks, the little brass ends go all to pieces. I've heard tell you can accomplish the same thing if your cub accidently rolls off the back of your trailer while going down the highway.
Like the new layout. . .lots of nooks and crannies to explore.
Cub time has been minimal lately, but can't complain -- been replaced by this guy (and his 3 month old lil' brother):
He also likes. . .scratch that, LOVES Jeeps:
Cub time has been minimal lately, but can't complain -- been replaced by this guy (and his 3 month old lil' brother):
He also likes. . .scratch that, LOVES Jeeps:
sblunier
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- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Had the day off to honor our Veterans, so I decided to get the Cub storage shed whipped into shape. I really added to my floor and shelf space by making these simple deck racks, keeps them out of the way!!!
The front deck eyes are securely attached to the wall via hook/eye/chain for safety.
Really makes for more space in the shed...
Plenty of space, even with all of the tractors inside...
(Mean looking line up!!!
)
The front deck eyes are securely attached to the wall via hook/eye/chain for safety.
Really makes for more space in the shed...
Plenty of space, even with all of the tractors inside...
(Mean looking line up!!!
elamott
Well-known member
I have just installed a used hydraulic system on my 129 and I have a question for someone.
The clevis assembly that attaches the cylinder to the lift arm has a pin and a second hole for a bolt. If the bolt is put in, it will be solid, if it is left out, it will pivit on the pin when the cylinder retracts. The manual does not show the bolt.
To me it appears the if the bolt left out it would ride up free and if the bolt is in the cylinder would hold it down. (to some extent)
Am I correct with thought or is there some other reason?
The big question is - Should the bolt be in?
If not, does someone know why it should not be in?
The clevis assembly that attaches the cylinder to the lift arm has a pin and a second hole for a bolt. If the bolt is put in, it will be solid, if it is left out, it will pivit on the pin when the cylinder retracts. The manual does not show the bolt.
To me it appears the if the bolt left out it would ride up free and if the bolt is in the cylinder would hold it down. (to some extent)
Am I correct with thought or is there some other reason?
The big question is - Should the bolt be in?
If not, does someone know why it should not be in?
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Earl,
The "bolt" you reference is exactly what you think it's for, and is called the "float lock-out pin". 99% of the time it should be left out, as the weight of the implement will keep the linkage "in place" and the "float" feature is very desireable for mowing, plowing, pushing snow, blowing snow, etc.
The "bolt" you reference is exactly what you think it's for, and is called the "float lock-out pin". 99% of the time it should be left out, as the weight of the implement will keep the linkage "in place" and the "float" feature is very desireable for mowing, plowing, pushing snow, blowing snow, etc.
P
pbrouillette
Guest
Guys, I have a question. I am trying to free up the brake lever on the tranny of the 1250. How does the pin that holds that thing in come out? I can beat it side to side a little but it wont push out.It is all frozen up and the brake pedal won't return up. I need to get all those links apart and free the whole system up. I will probably tear down my 1200 tomorrow morning and make up a parts list to finish this project up. Thanks for the help. Paul
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