Archive through November 05, 2008
- Thread starter kide
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I am new to this forum. I posted yesterday asking about mounting a GA42A snow thrower on a narrow frame 70/100. Looks like i will need to do some drilling to mount. The rear open fork on the support frame looks like it will work with and existing hole for the pully to line up - but the front hole does not. What do I do? drill a hole in the support frame or do I need a different frame.
I cannot find the post I sent - nor resulting responses. Could someone tell me how to navigate this site.....................
I have two servicable 70's at this time - use them hard on mowing a big yard 1A+ - in garden to plow, cultivate, dig potatoes with plow, pull 12 foot drags around barn yard (takes two or three good yanks to get them going) grading with the front blade and general work around the place with the official cub trailer that is well used picking rock - hauling up to 5 bales of hay - building fence and going to the woods carying saws, splitting mauls fuel, cant hook and FOOD. They are my outdoor freinds. I could not afford original lights and plate, so walmart helped me out.
Please again, someone help me to navigate the forum.
Ed
Update - I found out why I could not find my post. When I clicked review post message - up came the message - but I did not click the post button. DUHHHH duH DDDDDDDuh.
Got to go - my cub is calling me.
Ed
I cannot find the post I sent - nor resulting responses. Could someone tell me how to navigate this site.....................
I have two servicable 70's at this time - use them hard on mowing a big yard 1A+ - in garden to plow, cultivate, dig potatoes with plow, pull 12 foot drags around barn yard (takes two or three good yanks to get them going) grading with the front blade and general work around the place with the official cub trailer that is well used picking rock - hauling up to 5 bales of hay - building fence and going to the woods carying saws, splitting mauls fuel, cant hook and FOOD. They are my outdoor freinds. I could not afford original lights and plate, so walmart helped me out.
Please again, someone help me to navigate the forum.
Ed
Update - I found out why I could not find my post. When I clicked review post message - up came the message - but I did not click the post button. DUHHHH duH DDDDDDDuh.
Got to go - my cub is calling me.
Ed
Ed, welcome!
The QA42A (this model will fit both wide frame and some narrow frame model Cub Cadets) may not bolt on without some drilling. The QA42 which is for narrow frame Cub Cadets only, would however bolt right on.
If you wish to do some drilling to mount the QA42A your first step is make sure you have the sub-frame set to the narrow position as shown below:
The photo below is how the narrow frame only model QA42 snow thrower is bolted to a 70/100 the tractor in the photo is not a 70/100 it is from the 71, 1x2/3 series but it would mount the same.
The QA42A (this model will fit both wide frame and some narrow frame model Cub Cadets) may not bolt on without some drilling. The QA42 which is for narrow frame Cub Cadets only, would however bolt right on.
If you wish to do some drilling to mount the QA42A your first step is make sure you have the sub-frame set to the narrow position as shown below:
The photo below is how the narrow frame only model QA42 snow thrower is bolted to a 70/100 the tractor in the photo is not a 70/100 it is from the 71, 1x2/3 series but it would mount the same.
My hydro lever on my 1282 was seized up this past spring and I had a local dealer free it up. Only problem is, now it will not stay stationary and I have to hold it in place to keep the tractor from moving too quickly. Is there a means to adjust this easily?
William, have a look at this part (#20 in the drawing) I'm not sure how it is tightened but if you have a look it might be self explanatory.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kraig/William-
There's a big nut on the end of that shaft; put a wrench on the nut and hold the hydro lever to tighten it. It'll take you about 30 seconds....quick fix....
It's under the left side panel on the left side of the pedastal, if that isn't immediately obvious.
There's a big nut on the end of that shaft; put a wrench on the nut and hold the hydro lever to tighten it. It'll take you about 30 seconds....quick fix....
It's under the left side panel on the left side of the pedastal, if that isn't immediately obvious.
Kraig - WOW that was fast and very helpful.
I will need to drill holes in the support bracket to match holes in frames.
Based on the response you sent me - next time I am having trouble removing a drive shaft or trying to adjust points behind the stupid frame on the 70 - I will post for suggestions. I love to learn based on others experiance.
ed
I will need to drill holes in the support bracket to match holes in frames.
Based on the response you sent me - next time I am having trouble removing a drive shaft or trying to adjust points behind the stupid frame on the 70 - I will post for suggestions. I love to learn based on others experiance.
ed
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Jim-
Rich Patton is a great guy. I have ordered used parts from him on more than one occasion. Everything I have gotten is always well packaged and "as good or better" than described.
He gets my thumbs up...
Rich Patton is a great guy. I have ordered used parts from him on more than one occasion. Everything I have gotten is always well packaged and "as good or better" than described.
He gets my thumbs up...
I'm thinking about putting a CAT 0 3 pt hitch on my 126. I see where CCSpecialties carries CAT 0 hitches for wide frame tractors. What are the differences between the rear frames and rear axle housings between a narrow and wide frame cub? I assume the CC’s wide frame hitch will not bolt up to a narrow frame. I am trying to figure out if it would be better to modify this hitch, or buy the links and fab up a mounting bracket and lift arms. I currently have the Cub 3 pt parts.
Any ideas or advice?
Thanks
cscannon
Any ideas or advice?
Thanks
cscannon
Chris C.
If your really looking to put a Cat. 0 on your Narrow Frame Machine. They are being made up right now and should be available in the next few weeks if not sooner.
If your really looking to put a Cat. 0 on your Narrow Frame Machine. They are being made up right now and should be available in the next few weeks if not sooner.
Can I run a 5/8" belt on my Quietline? I just purchased a model 451 blower. The Quick-Attach sub frame fits and the lift was an easy modification. I could run it with a 1/2" belt, but I am thinking that a 5/8" belt would last longer. Does a later model PTO bolt on? Will a 5/8 belt screw the PTO pulley that is made for a 1/2" belt. Anyone have experience with this?
Ed T. I see that you live incredibly close to me! I was wondering if you knew anyone by the name of Ernie? I hope you like this site, these guys on here are great and very helpful! I hope you like it here!! Scott
kredlinger
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- Kyle Redlinger
Jim-
I too have bought several times from Rich Patton. Excellent service when it comes to packaging, the parts are always better than expected & he's not gouging on the shipping prices.
I too have bought several times from Rich Patton. Excellent service when it comes to packaging, the parts are always better than expected & he's not gouging on the shipping prices.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Scott S,
I dunno... there are 2 Campbell NY's one near you, and one in Madison county
http://www.mapquest.com/maps?city=Campbell&state=NY&country=US&latitude=42.805599&longitude=-75.6175&geocode=CITY
I dunno... there are 2 Campbell NY's one near you, and one in Madison county
http://www.mapquest.com/maps?city=Campbell&state=NY&country=US&latitude=42.805599&longitude=-75.6175&geocode=CITY
Can anyone tell me anything about this wheel, like what is used on, how does it come apart, etc., etc.
It is on this "homemade" Cub Cadet that I got from my local dealer
The tractor was being built by a man that was a "master welder" by trade, but he only had one arm and was building a tractor that was to be "user friendly" for him, but his health failed and he passed away before it was finished. The tractor has been sitting in his garage/shop from that time until just recently. This work was being done in the mid 1960's (a receipt for some steel is dated 3-3-65)and all the parts, including the steel were new. The Cub Cadet parts you see are all new, but purchased during that time frame - the seat is basically mint other than being dirty, but it has a "dent" in the foam where something was setting on it for a period of time. The transaxle is a new 70/100 unit that does not have a serial number stamped in it, has only the facroty sealer/primer, has no gear/shifting fork wear, and has never had any oil of any kind in it. The engine appears to have had little, if any, use. The PTO clutch is new and still has the paint in the belt groove and the installation instructions for a 70/100 PTO clutch were in a box with some other stuff (deck spindles, pulleys, and belt covers that all have an IH P/N sticker on them. The steering column is new, although the wheel is a later unit and is not nutted to the column, like it may have just been stuck on it at a later date to allow moving the tractor around. There is another steering column and new wheel (acorn nut type) with it, but that steering box is not drilled and tapped for the Cub Cadet mount bolts. The front and rear tires are new GoodYears, and still have the "nubs" on them. The front and rear wheels are also new, but I do not know what the front one are from. The front tires were flat, and the tractor had been rolled/moved with them flat, but the beads were still seated on the wheels as if there may be some type of bead lock. They have tubes in them and were easily inflated. The dash is a modified 70/100 dash. All in all, a rather unique Cub Cadet, if you can call it that.
It is on this "homemade" Cub Cadet that I got from my local dealer
The tractor was being built by a man that was a "master welder" by trade, but he only had one arm and was building a tractor that was to be "user friendly" for him, but his health failed and he passed away before it was finished. The tractor has been sitting in his garage/shop from that time until just recently. This work was being done in the mid 1960's (a receipt for some steel is dated 3-3-65)and all the parts, including the steel were new. The Cub Cadet parts you see are all new, but purchased during that time frame - the seat is basically mint other than being dirty, but it has a "dent" in the foam where something was setting on it for a period of time. The transaxle is a new 70/100 unit that does not have a serial number stamped in it, has only the facroty sealer/primer, has no gear/shifting fork wear, and has never had any oil of any kind in it. The engine appears to have had little, if any, use. The PTO clutch is new and still has the paint in the belt groove and the installation instructions for a 70/100 PTO clutch were in a box with some other stuff (deck spindles, pulleys, and belt covers that all have an IH P/N sticker on them. The steering column is new, although the wheel is a later unit and is not nutted to the column, like it may have just been stuck on it at a later date to allow moving the tractor around. There is another steering column and new wheel (acorn nut type) with it, but that steering box is not drilled and tapped for the Cub Cadet mount bolts. The front and rear tires are new GoodYears, and still have the "nubs" on them. The front and rear wheels are also new, but I do not know what the front one are from. The front tires were flat, and the tractor had been rolled/moved with them flat, but the beads were still seated on the wheels as if there may be some type of bead lock. They have tubes in them and were easily inflated. The dash is a modified 70/100 dash. All in all, a rather unique Cub Cadet, if you can call it that.
Thanks guys for the suggestions on the lights. it doesnt really matter to me if its the 129 look or the QL look I like them both. And I figure I'll probably get a QL eventually so I'd just be getting the lights ahead of time. I've been watching ebay for either and the last couple sets for the 1x9 series went for over $150 each
and probably the QL will end up out of my price range as well so I might end up doing the DIY lights, I just didnt want to have to get out my tools since they are all in storage (just mooved).
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Paul-
That's a neat tractor. What are you going to do with it? Finish the project?????
Not to over simplify it, but have you checked with these guys on that wheel?
http://www.aerol.com/
That's a neat tractor. What are you going to do with it? Finish the project?????
Not to over simplify it, but have you checked with these guys on that wheel?
http://www.aerol.com/
