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Archive through May 29, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Sam, not sure if it's the same as your version of the Windbreaker cab (I believe that there is more than one version that will fit a 1x2/3 or a 1x4/5 series) but here are some detail photos of the one I have for one of my Cub Cadet 125s:

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Never mind the rusty angle stock in the above photo, that is supporting a rear weight.

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Thanks Kraig for the pics! I tryed to upload pics but it says the pics are too big.
 
I am in the process of putting a windbreaker on my 124 so those pic have perfect timing. I have to fabricate the brackets that go around the fender to support the rear uprights. The windbreaker I have has brackets for a roundy fendered tractor.
 
Trying to fix my sloppy throttle shaft on #30 carb for a 169. Got the bushing from a local dealer. But, it never fails even gently I broke both butterfly screws. filed them down, and got the shaft out. Looked on both CCpecialtys and chris westfall's site - found some similar throttle shaft stuff - but I need the butterfly screws and the throttle shaft - I'm not sure if I need the entire rebuild kit. any input from someone who has been down this road before?
 
One of my spindles on my 44A mower deck has quit taking grease. Any recommendations? Are the fittings replaceable? Anyone use the "tool" that forces penetrate in by using a hammer? Will a little heat help soften things up? Thanks in advance.
 
OK, sorry for waiting so long. here is what I have bought. Will the gap between the tube and bolt be acceptable? I could talk to CC maybe if they are willing to talk
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Looking at this pic, It didn't seem like that much of a gap when I first checked it. of course it will be centered.
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Patrick, you might be able to find a bronze bushing sized close enough to fill some of the gap between the bolt and the inside of the pipe. Just curious, how does the OD of the pipe compare to the original (not worn) OD of the old tensioner? How tight does that spring fit on the pipe? The reason I ask is that it looks like the spring is already rather tight on the pipe and it might tighten up more as you put tension on the spring.
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John
I get my screws for the throttle shaft at the local hardware. It's a little late now but I always file the screws on the back of the throttle shaft (where the tip sticks out) and loosen, tighten, loosen tighten little by little until they come out.
 
The old style tensioner arms IH-548457-R1 PN/IH-548457-R1 are NLA and switched over to PN/759-04324A.
Dealers that mess with them have to buy a kit for Haban decks, and modify the tube as you call it for the shorter bolts on our Cubs.
The new ones have a bolt/nut for the idler pulley.
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PJF wrote "OK, sorry for waiting so long. here is what I have bought. Will the gap between the tube and bolt be acceptable? I could talk to CC maybe if they are willing to talk "

I wouldn't use those pieces. Just call a sponsor or if you have a local machine shop have them replicate the parts, but it's probably faster & cheaper to contact the sponsors above!

IMHO!
 
Black pipe makes a terrible bushing. I would either source it from a sponser, or look for a bushing that would work. (Sometimes the 3pt hitch parts section of the local TSC/Big R will have steel bushings that can be useful for these projects.......my semi-mount plow is full of them....)

As you have it pictured there is way too much slop for a belt tensioner idler.
 
I wouldn't want a loose fit on that bushing in the idler arm, as the idler pulley wants to lay straight across the back of the belt...... it'll scrub if it doesn't...
 
I am installing a sleeve hitch on a ’61 Original (#6305). When I slipped the lift arm through the fender pan opening, I could see there was not enough clearance to bolt the arm to the rear lift bracket or to the lift lever rockshaft. It took me awhile to realize that the pan on this tractor didn’t have the crescent-shaped notch like my other Original pans have. I do not have the sleeve hitch installation instructions, but the fender installation instructions on this site do show a rectangular notch. At what time period did IH start manufacturing the pans with the notch? Does anyone have an early sleeve hitch instruction sheet that shows the correct dimensions for the cutout? Thanks
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Paul T., other than the photos of the fender pan in the Fender Installation manual, your photos are the first I've ever seen of an Original fender pan without a notch for the rear lift! That must be a REALLY early example of the fender pan... I think I would be hesitant to alter them to allow the rear lift.
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I think I'd try to sell them to someone that would be interested in preserving them and use the proceeds to purchase a notched set.
 
This might not be the right forum for this, but are any suppliers making/selling deck sheet metal?
My left end for a 38" mower deck is messed up.
If I have to , I'll just mock something up to work for now I guess, I can get street signs.....
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well after looking again on CCS I seen that he had one. I bought it. just wish I could get it sooner. The wife is already looking for a landscape company to come out
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Don't tell the wife I spent more money one the tractor haha
 
Mike C., most Street Signs are aluminum & don't let the Man catch you!
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Give us some pics of what you're up to...
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Charlie,

Boy, those new style deck belt tensioner arms sure don't look as strudy as the old style does. MTD messed up again by discontinuing another good IH part and substituting a sub-standard part in its place just to make a few more bucks!
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Good incentive to service the tensioner arm each year with lubrication to keep them from rusting and freezing up on the shoulder bolt.
 
MTD=Made to Die. From the looks of the idler part it won't last long.
 
Thanks Kraig. You may have saved me from cutting up something that is relatively rare! I have another pan I'll use for now. Maybe someone will have information about when IH may have made the change and added the factory notch for the sleeve hitch.
 

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