Since the s/g on my 122 went down and is currently getting a rebuild at the local s/g shop can I temporaily transfer the s/g from my original to my 122?
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Archive through May 25, 2011
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Lucas, yes, however, I believe it has a different sized pulley on it so it may not have enough torque to properly spin it for starting. Provided you connect it up correctly, there's no harm in trying.
Thanks alot Kraig.
I have to get outside and clean up the massive mess in my yard from the storms last night.
I have to get outside and clean up the massive mess in my yard from the storms last night.
The swap worked fine.
bhazelbrook
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- May 23, 2011
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- displayname
- Bob Hazelbrook
Hello all
Just picked up my first small IH...a '79 vintage 1650 with a 50A deck and a front blade with hyd. angle.
Had a full set of wheel weights too. Couldn't resist for fifty bucks!
I've had a lot of big Case/IH equipment on the ranch and have restored a few older AC/Simplicity garden machines in the past.
Got her running, swapped fluids, fixed a couple of buggers and did a "rattle-can restoration" to stop the rust yesterday.
Now for the deck. I know about the iso-mount issue...anything else about the 1650 worthy of commentary? I really like this machine. Planning on building a sleeve hitch and also adapting a like-new Haban sickle mower (came off a Gilson/MW) for this jewel. It sure is quiet!
Just picked up my first small IH...a '79 vintage 1650 with a 50A deck and a front blade with hyd. angle.
Had a full set of wheel weights too. Couldn't resist for fifty bucks!
I've had a lot of big Case/IH equipment on the ranch and have restored a few older AC/Simplicity garden machines in the past.
Got her running, swapped fluids, fixed a couple of buggers and did a "rattle-can restoration" to stop the rust yesterday.
Now for the deck. I know about the iso-mount issue...anything else about the 1650 worthy of commentary? I really like this machine. Planning on building a sleeve hitch and also adapting a like-new Haban sickle mower (came off a Gilson/MW) for this jewel. It sure is quiet!
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Bob H - just where the heck did you find a 1650 in this state? They ain't even worth scrap so when you're ready to get rid of it let me know and I'll be over and pick her up. I'm just the other side of the mountains (250 miles away).
You mentioned "It sure is quiet". I assume you mean at idle and haven't pushed the throttle up. Or someone has slowed the idle to low so she shakes all over but still runs. They did call these the "Quiet Lines" but I never thought they were really that quiet. Some are more than others, but that 16hp K341AQS in yours should make some noise. There must be something wrong with yours - just another reason to shoot me an e-mail and I'll pick it up.
I see your mowing deck leaning against the wall. Looks pretty typical. What to look for? The 2 rear hanger brackets will sometimes break or crack thru the deck skin housing mount. They really don't have any support on the under neath side since they are mounted with carriage bolts. Have a good look and you may see some cracks starting about the heads of the bolts on the underneath side. If you see the cracks on the top side the hanger is gonna pull out soon. I usually clean everything up and add a plate underneath, and then use standard hex head bolts (I believe there is enough room). When you remove the belt cover you may find alot of rust if the grass has just been left laying in there. It does have a big triangular plate added which covers just about all the area under the cover. This stiffens the deck as well as adding strength. You won't hardly be able to see it unless you look closely around the edges of where the cover fits. It's on the under side of the pulleys against the deck skin. It may have alot of pitting. The belt tensioner arm and spring are commonly wore out, and the big special bolt holding the arm/spring on the deck will likely break when removed. No big deal to replace the bolt, spring and tensioner arm/lever. Might have to add a bigger washer underneath. Other than that it's the usual things like checking the bearings on the spindles but they are quality and don't often fail if kept greased. Removing the blades can be difficult, hopefully your the top nuts on the spindles won't turn. You might need a 3 foot pipe for leverage if you don't have an air rachett. Other than these general things it's a pretty decent deck. Sometimes they do get twisted and are hard to level when mounted.
Good luck with your unit. Maybe I'll get over your way sometime.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die, they just find another resting place.
You mentioned "It sure is quiet". I assume you mean at idle and haven't pushed the throttle up. Or someone has slowed the idle to low so she shakes all over but still runs. They did call these the "Quiet Lines" but I never thought they were really that quiet. Some are more than others, but that 16hp K341AQS in yours should make some noise. There must be something wrong with yours - just another reason to shoot me an e-mail and I'll pick it up.
I see your mowing deck leaning against the wall. Looks pretty typical. What to look for? The 2 rear hanger brackets will sometimes break or crack thru the deck skin housing mount. They really don't have any support on the under neath side since they are mounted with carriage bolts. Have a good look and you may see some cracks starting about the heads of the bolts on the underneath side. If you see the cracks on the top side the hanger is gonna pull out soon. I usually clean everything up and add a plate underneath, and then use standard hex head bolts (I believe there is enough room). When you remove the belt cover you may find alot of rust if the grass has just been left laying in there. It does have a big triangular plate added which covers just about all the area under the cover. This stiffens the deck as well as adding strength. You won't hardly be able to see it unless you look closely around the edges of where the cover fits. It's on the under side of the pulleys against the deck skin. It may have alot of pitting. The belt tensioner arm and spring are commonly wore out, and the big special bolt holding the arm/spring on the deck will likely break when removed. No big deal to replace the bolt, spring and tensioner arm/lever. Might have to add a bigger washer underneath. Other than that it's the usual things like checking the bearings on the spindles but they are quality and don't often fail if kept greased. Removing the blades can be difficult, hopefully your the top nuts on the spindles won't turn. You might need a 3 foot pipe for leverage if you don't have an air rachett. Other than these general things it's a pretty decent deck. Sometimes they do get twisted and are hard to level when mounted.
Good luck with your unit. Maybe I'll get over your way sometime.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die, they just find another resting place.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Rodney...
Ontario, Canada here!
Ontario, Canada here!
QUICK QUESTION regarding my 682. I backed it in the garage to put the deck on it. Came in to eat, went back out, tried to start it and nothing! The lights turn on but nothing. I DON'T even hear any click. Just nothing. Does that sound like the starter solenoid??
mpatterson
Well-known member
I am going to sound like an idiot here, but no need in buying something and NOT knowing how to properly use it! Exactly how do these work? I mean that kinda odd question in this way.... you pick your spacing for the row, and do a rip down the garden to start the hill at the width you want. Then do you readjust your width of your cultivator to bring the plows in tighter to form more of a hill on the next pass? Or do you set it at the fixed width, make three or four rips up and down the row lowering the cultivator each pass pulling up more dirt which inturn throws it into the "raised hill"?
On average do they create a hill about 6 or 8 inches tall?? Since I know you will not have a manual on "how to set up" on a Brinly cultivator. I have yet to find anything on line as to how to properly set them up?
Sorry for the odd question.
On average do they create a hill about 6 or 8 inches tall?? Since I know you will not have a manual on "how to set up" on a Brinly cultivator. I have yet to find anything on line as to how to properly set them up?
Sorry for the odd question.
I'm having a carb issue that sort of has me puzzled (imagine that). It's on another 129 and generally runs good, especially at wot. However, at idle it purrs nicely for about 15-20 seconds then starts to die. The throttle shaft seems tight with little play and it has a kit installed. I even tried the grease around the shaft trick to no avail. I went and checked the manual to make sure I was doing everything "by the book". I started with the high speed then increased the idle setting screw while adjusting the idle mixture. It adjusts and runs well (did it three times) then starts to die. Tank has been cleaned along with the shut-off valve and it has new fuel line. There is a slight upswing in the new fuel line (to clear the gov. arm) and I thought that might have something to do with it but that seems a little far fetched because the complete line is below the tank. I will cut a little off of the fuel line to eliminate this possibility. I can't remember if this carb was soaked or not so that will probably be the next move. It appears to be a case of slow fuel starvation. I'm just puzzled as to why. There might be a knat hair stuck in there or something.
Anybody have this situation come up in the past? I'm sure I'll eventually remedy the problem but would like to know if someone is familiar with this. It's the little things like this that cause me to take so long to get anything done in reasonable time frames (and they tick me off).
Have we scared Charlie off?
Anybody have this situation come up in the past? I'm sure I'll eventually remedy the problem but would like to know if someone is familiar with this. It's the little things like this that cause me to take so long to get anything done in reasonable time frames (and they tick me off).
Have we scared Charlie off?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Wayne - oh Wayne - probably is a knat hair. What's this about wiggling the switch on the 682. I thought anything past an 1x8/1x9 series was to new for you. JB said wiggling the switch worked BUT I suspect it was something else. Like maybe the brake pedal micro switch. Why would you have guessed the PTO switch?
Getting back to your Knat problem - where do you have the idle rpm set? If you're between 600-700 some of these engines will die out. I believe Kohler recommends 1000, and maybe in part why. I had some 12hp engines that would just put put put at about 550-600. Sounded great, hardly made any noise, but in truth probably not enough rpm to keep them lubed. I'd push yours up to 800 at least and see if it still dies out. You may have to go up to 1000. If it still does there I think I'd check the value clearances.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (at least not for long)
Getting back to your Knat problem - where do you have the idle rpm set? If you're between 600-700 some of these engines will die out. I believe Kohler recommends 1000, and maybe in part why. I had some 12hp engines that would just put put put at about 550-600. Sounded great, hardly made any noise, but in truth probably not enough rpm to keep them lubed. I'd push yours up to 800 at least and see if it still dies out. You may have to go up to 1000. If it still does there I think I'd check the value clearances.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (at least not for long)
hey JB, i've had a few quiet line's that would crank one time and next time was dead. i kept finding trouble on the pto switch which is just like the red series. the trigger wire or the wire that energizes the solenoid, goes threw the pto switch first and then threw the rest of the saftys. for some reson this plug gets either rusty or really dirty and just wiggling the plug will make the engine crank. i'd look there first and you can trace the power down to the solenoid from there. hope this helps.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Jesse: I like your signature line, very original --and true
Harry: Thanks for sizing up the typical deck mods, I've got two decks in shed that I need to go through this summer. The cost of some of the replacement parts was giving me nightmares, your assessment of their longevity gives me courage. If they're not in good shape I can blame lack of maintenance by the previous owner(s).
Mike: Glad to hear you were able to diagnose your electrical problems before there was an "incident" that could have cost you your 982, or your life, for that matter.
Wayne: I'm totally with you on the "little things." They drive me crazy too. I always want to "get it right" but sometimes I wonder if its worth the effort. When I look at the restoration work done by other forum members, it gives me new respect for their skills. Its very humbling when I compare their results to my efforts.
Harry: Thanks for sizing up the typical deck mods, I've got two decks in shed that I need to go through this summer. The cost of some of the replacement parts was giving me nightmares, your assessment of their longevity gives me courage. If they're not in good shape I can blame lack of maintenance by the previous owner(s).
Mike: Glad to hear you were able to diagnose your electrical problems before there was an "incident" that could have cost you your 982, or your life, for that matter.
Wayne: I'm totally with you on the "little things." They drive me crazy too. I always want to "get it right" but sometimes I wonder if its worth the effort. When I look at the restoration work done by other forum members, it gives me new respect for their skills. Its very humbling when I compare their results to my efforts.
Harry-
My 1250 worker sat in the barn for over a week doing (or not doing) the same thing. It had a new battery and ran like a champ but just wouldn't start or do anything. I was just fooling around scratching my head one day and it cranked with me still not knowing what had happened. I reviewed what I had just messed with and sure enough was able to reproduce the problem by "wiggling" the pto switch. I have come across this with a few other tractors since, once even on a green thing so I figured the was JBs problem since he said he was just on the tractor. Those pto switches are sensitive.
Like I said, I plan to soak the carb for a good spell today and see if that remedies this idling crap. I don't have a tach so I go by ear. I have some tractors that will sit idling all day at way under 1000 rpms. This one sounds the same but just won't sustain for long. It might be the float needle sticking a little too. If I can't fix this carb I might install the one I got from you a while back.
My 1250 worker sat in the barn for over a week doing (or not doing) the same thing. It had a new battery and ran like a champ but just wouldn't start or do anything. I was just fooling around scratching my head one day and it cranked with me still not knowing what had happened. I reviewed what I had just messed with and sure enough was able to reproduce the problem by "wiggling" the pto switch. I have come across this with a few other tractors since, once even on a green thing so I figured the was JBs problem since he said he was just on the tractor. Those pto switches are sensitive.
Like I said, I plan to soak the carb for a good spell today and see if that remedies this idling crap. I don't have a tach so I go by ear. I have some tractors that will sit idling all day at way under 1000 rpms. This one sounds the same but just won't sustain for long. It might be the float needle sticking a little too. If I can't fix this carb I might install the one I got from you a while back.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Wayne, that sounds about right. Just not sure if I am supposed to adjust the tool bar in width each pass to bring ground closer together into a hill or just keep making passes and letting it pile up on its own at the same set width?
