Archive through May 23, 2007
- Thread starter ppimentel
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Paul,
Stock axle, custom spindles. I posted some information here when I built them.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/36886.html
Stock axle, custom spindles. I posted some information here when I built them.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/36886.html
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By Tom White (Twhite) on Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 09:28 am:
...I noticed the ragged remnants of a fan before the hydro unit. I crusied the site and see that there is supposed to be a hydro fan there.
Is that fan a "You better replace it now or your hydro will grenade" kinda part or is it a "fix it in the winter when you don't have to mow" kinda part?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Tom,
The fan keeps the hydro unit cool. I suppose it depends on how much you work your Cub and how clean you keep the hydro unit. If it's covered in 2" of grass clippings, the fan won't help much and it may be too hot. If you work the dog crap outta of it, it may get too hot. I'd suggest you locate one and get it installed. It isn't that big of a job nor are they very expensive. Cooked hydro units can get expensive!
Just my opinion,,
Ryan W
By Tom White (Twhite) on Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 09:28 am:
...I noticed the ragged remnants of a fan before the hydro unit. I crusied the site and see that there is supposed to be a hydro fan there.
Is that fan a "You better replace it now or your hydro will grenade" kinda part or is it a "fix it in the winter when you don't have to mow" kinda part?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Tom,
The fan keeps the hydro unit cool. I suppose it depends on how much you work your Cub and how clean you keep the hydro unit. If it's covered in 2" of grass clippings, the fan won't help much and it may be too hot. If you work the dog crap outta of it, it may get too hot. I'd suggest you locate one and get it installed. It isn't that big of a job nor are they very expensive. Cooked hydro units can get expensive!
Just my opinion,,
Ryan W
Charlie and Henri. Cleaned All the grounds down to bare metal, pulled the main bat wire to solinoid.It checked ok with meter. I do have power to the solinoid, started once, I moved the cluster to the switch and it started, pulled and cleaned switch, nothing. Is there a way I can check switch?? when I jump across solinoid it will start.Thanks
John H.
Betcha dint check the PTO switch did ya?
Those dang things are the cause of 50% of QL's not starting.
An Ohm meter will let ya check the switch and the PTO switch too.
Sometimes just wiggling the connector for the PTO SWT. will tell you real quick. Just a thought. BTDT
Betcha dint check the PTO switch did ya?
Those dang things are the cause of 50% of QL's not starting.
An Ohm meter will let ya check the switch and the PTO switch too.
Sometimes just wiggling the connector for the PTO SWT. will tell you real quick. Just a thought. BTDT
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Glen C.-
Why on earth do you want to re-install balance gears? Almost everyone else leaves them out when rebuilding an engine, as they sometimes like to jump out the side of the block. If you must have them, any good Kohler dealer should be able to get them, assuming they aren't NLA, which is very possible.
Why on earth do you want to re-install balance gears? Almost everyone else leaves them out when rebuilding an engine, as they sometimes like to jump out the side of the block. If you must have them, any good Kohler dealer should be able to get them, assuming they aren't NLA, which is very possible.
Christopher,
If the block's been bored .030 over and is worn way past its wear limits, it is possible to resleeve it. That being said, it will cost you some bucks to do it, my best guess is at least in the $100 range, but I don't know for sure. When the time comes, I would take a long hard look at the block, the crank, valves and seats, and the rest of the internals before sinking a lot of money in it. Usable and rebuildable blocks are around, and can sometimes be picked up cheaply.
If the block's been bored .030 over and is worn way past its wear limits, it is possible to resleeve it. That being said, it will cost you some bucks to do it, my best guess is at least in the $100 range, but I don't know for sure. When the time comes, I would take a long hard look at the block, the crank, valves and seats, and the rest of the internals before sinking a lot of money in it. Usable and rebuildable blocks are around, and can sometimes be picked up cheaply.
Charlie, It was the switch, pulled it cleaned the contacts sprayed it with elec cleaner, and prestoe the lil-girl started, will order a new switch and replace it. I'm learning, thanks to the forums and masters like you and others.Thanks John
John H.
You just as well do the PTO switch while your there, cause your gonna have to sooner or later anyway.
You just as well do the PTO switch while your there, cause your gonna have to sooner or later anyway.
Again, noobie here, never done this before, so I dunno what's hot and whats not... I meant the shafts that the gears ride on, not the gears themselves, they're fine, but Do they smooth running out any?, and frankly, I'm a little comfused, how do you plug the holes after you press the shafts out, or do you leave em in?
Cubbers,
Aside from sheetmetal, air boxes and exhaust is there anything really significantly different from 1xx series to the quietlines. I know some will have a few bells and whistles.
But as far as I can see basically same motor arrangement. same drivelines hydro and gearbox.
I am curious what makes people like the ql's over earlier machines.
Are there some driveshaft upgrades that make things easier or better?
Thanks
Dudley
Aside from sheetmetal, air boxes and exhaust is there anything really significantly different from 1xx series to the quietlines. I know some will have a few bells and whistles.
But as far as I can see basically same motor arrangement. same drivelines hydro and gearbox.
I am curious what makes people like the ql's over earlier machines.
Are there some driveshaft upgrades that make things easier or better?
Thanks
Dudley
ehanewinkel
New member
- Joined
- May 20, 2007
- Messages
- 1
- displayname
- Eric Hanewinkel
Hi, I have a 1200 series cub cadet garden tractor (S/N: 657987)I am having problems with. It starts fine, PTO engages fine and mows for about 5 minutes then starts sputtering, lightly smoking, and then dies. After it cools down the cycle is repeated. I have cleaned out the gas tank, installed an inline gas filter, and replaced the 12V coil. I don't know if it is overheating or not. Any ideas? (my email is [email protected]) Thanks, Eric
tfesenmyer
Member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2004
- Messages
- 18
- displayname
- Tom Fesenmyer
I've seen some really nice pictures of restored mower decks posted here in the past. Can someone share their advice and experience with what works well on the underside? I've seen some nice restorations with Rhino lining type coatings and am curious how they hold up over time. Thanks.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Glen C.-
I don't think they make much of a difference. Correct me if I'm wrong, someone, but every 122 I've had (no balance gears, that I know of) has had pretty much the same vibration as my 128's (with balance gears). You can just leave the stub shafts in there, they shouldn't bother anything.
I don't think they make much of a difference. Correct me if I'm wrong, someone, but every 122 I've had (no balance gears, that I know of) has had pretty much the same vibration as my 128's (with balance gears). You can just leave the stub shafts in there, they shouldn't bother anything.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Erick H.
I would check for a blown head gasket.
I would check for a blown head gasket.
