-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through May 21, 2011
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
i was mowing with the 122 today and the deck belt shredded. its a 48 inch deck so i came to this site to check the faqs and it says it should use a 1/2 x 83 belt. i then headed to tractor supply and picked up a new belt, its huskee brand belt. its to long so im not sure if the faqs have a typo or the huskee belts are marked wrong. the belt has 1/2 x 83 printed on it. any ideas?
Tim A.
The spindle belt listed in the FAQ's is correct for the 48" deck on your machine IH-481099-R2-1/2 X 83".
The spindle belt listed in the FAQ's is correct for the 48" deck on your machine IH-481099-R2-1/2 X 83".
Hey guys. I just bought a Haban sickle bar mower here about a week ago. The PO said it was for a Bolens but thought it might mount to a Cub Cadet. Is this true, or would it be a job to get it mounted up? Any photos, advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated on this project...Thanks!
Tim A.
Measure it and make sure.
Measure it and make sure.
Ryan M.
Go to the manuals section and download or look at the manual and I think you'll find the Bolens one is a totally different beast and would be quite a job to convert it.
http://www.ccmanuals.info/attachments.html
Go to the manuals section and download or look at the manual and I think you'll find the Bolens one is a totally different beast and would be quite a job to convert it.
http://www.ccmanuals.info/attachments.html
Hi Fellas,
I spent a good portion of today enjoying mowing with my 127. But I was stopped early because the PTO-to-Deck belt became torn up - again.
Now I realize pulleys wear out. In the past, I have replaced the two mule drive pulleys when their center bushing/bearing seized or burned out.
I recall also having to change the cross-shaft on another mule-drive; the pulleys ride on it & wore the shaft to the point of causing one of the mule drive pulleys to take a tilt and causes the belt to be flipped off about every 15ft.
But what about the PTO pulley or the deck pulley - has anyone ever changed those out due to wear?
Is there a maximum measurement gap allowed for them or some other check to determine excessive wear?
The called for OE PTO belt is the IH-490489-R2, which is 3/8" X 80".
If I stepped up to a 1/2" wide belt, would that be of any benefit with worn pulleys or would it likely just lead me to having a cut belt again from the pulley edges?
Any helpful advice/thoughts would be most appreciated! Thanks!
RWilke
I spent a good portion of today enjoying mowing with my 127. But I was stopped early because the PTO-to-Deck belt became torn up - again.
Now I realize pulleys wear out. In the past, I have replaced the two mule drive pulleys when their center bushing/bearing seized or burned out.
I recall also having to change the cross-shaft on another mule-drive; the pulleys ride on it & wore the shaft to the point of causing one of the mule drive pulleys to take a tilt and causes the belt to be flipped off about every 15ft.
But what about the PTO pulley or the deck pulley - has anyone ever changed those out due to wear?
Is there a maximum measurement gap allowed for them or some other check to determine excessive wear?
The called for OE PTO belt is the IH-490489-R2, which is 3/8" X 80".
If I stepped up to a 1/2" wide belt, would that be of any benefit with worn pulleys or would it likely just lead me to having a cut belt again from the pulley edges?
Any helpful advice/thoughts would be most appreciated! Thanks!
RWilke
RYAN - I keep spare mule drive pulleys in stock for quick replacement just like I keep spare belts and fiber buttons for the PTO clutch. The mule drive on my 982 uses much bigger pulleys than other CC's and after listening to one screech & grind for a couple hours last week it finally spit the whole pulley off the inner race of the idler. Five minute repair. I had one fail on the 72 years ago where the pulley & outer race wore into the inner race and then into the retaning bolt about half way before I caught it. LOT of heat generated when you have metal-to-metal contact like that! It was starting to get dark and I saw the sparks flying or I would have run the 72 eeven longer!
The PTO & deck pulleys also wear, you have a LOT of rubber-to-metal friction there. I suppose you could do a search on-line for V-belt pulley design, and V-belt design and get the angle of the sides of the belt & pulley, then make a gauge and check the pulleys for wear.
The center double deck pulley is not cheap and I know the PTO pulley is really expensive. I've never replaced a PTO pulley, but have replaced the center pulley on a deck once because the bolt attaching it to the spindle loosened and the pulley wore the spindle shaft & pulley bore out.
Switching to a 1/2" wide belt would cause the belts to ride higher in the pulleys, ALL of them, but since you'd have to use a non-IHC/MTD belt not intended for the mule drive application I'm not sure it would solve anything or last. I bought a good Pirelli made-in-Minnesota, USA belt years ago to use on the mule drive on my 129 & 44A deck and it lasted fifteen SECONDS. It wouldn't twist enough and kept flying off the mule drive idlers and finally went up in smoke & rubber dust. I've never used anything other than OEM belts since except on S/D drives.
The PTO & deck pulleys also wear, you have a LOT of rubber-to-metal friction there. I suppose you could do a search on-line for V-belt pulley design, and V-belt design and get the angle of the sides of the belt & pulley, then make a gauge and check the pulleys for wear.
The center double deck pulley is not cheap and I know the PTO pulley is really expensive. I've never replaced a PTO pulley, but have replaced the center pulley on a deck once because the bolt attaching it to the spindle loosened and the pulley wore the spindle shaft & pulley bore out.
Switching to a 1/2" wide belt would cause the belts to ride higher in the pulleys, ALL of them, but since you'd have to use a non-IHC/MTD belt not intended for the mule drive application I'm not sure it would solve anything or last. I bought a good Pirelli made-in-Minnesota, USA belt years ago to use on the mule drive on my 129 & 44A deck and it lasted fifteen SECONDS. It wouldn't twist enough and kept flying off the mule drive idlers and finally went up in smoke & rubber dust. I've never used anything other than OEM belts since except on S/D drives.
Ryan,
What kind of belt are you using? Most part house or generic belts of the "correct" size/length (I don't believe it is actually a true 3/8 belt, but is a bit smaller) will not stand up to the twist and turns required by the PTO and mule drive. There are some belt exceptions, such as the Gates "Green" and maybe others (the original IH belts were made by Gates). The OE belts may cost more, but are cheaper in the long run because they are designed for the twist and turns of the application. If you are using OE or Cub Cadet brand belts, then you may have a pulley problem. If you are using a "parts house" belt, the problem is probably the belt and not the pulleys.
What kind of belt are you using? Most part house or generic belts of the "correct" size/length (I don't believe it is actually a true 3/8 belt, but is a bit smaller) will not stand up to the twist and turns required by the PTO and mule drive. There are some belt exceptions, such as the Gates "Green" and maybe others (the original IH belts were made by Gates). The OE belts may cost more, but are cheaper in the long run because they are designed for the twist and turns of the application. If you are using OE or Cub Cadet brand belts, then you may have a pulley problem. If you are using a "parts house" belt, the problem is probably the belt and not the pulleys.
elamott
Well-known member
Hi everyone:
I finished my tilling and now back to mowing.
I have a problem with my Hydro 129 that I am sure others have had and fixed.
I rebuilt my Hydro 129 a year ago but it is not running like it should. The high end sounds like the carb is out of adjustment, but adjusting does not help. The carb is pretty worn. The throttle shaft is pretty loose. I am thinking that I should purchase a new one if possible. Has anyone purchased new ones? If so where did you find them?
Thanks for any help
Earl LaMott
I finished my tilling and now back to mowing.
I have a problem with my Hydro 129 that I am sure others have had and fixed.
I rebuilt my Hydro 129 a year ago but it is not running like it should. The high end sounds like the carb is out of adjustment, but adjusting does not help. The carb is pretty worn. The throttle shaft is pretty loose. I am thinking that I should purchase a new one if possible. Has anyone purchased new ones? If so where did you find them?
Thanks for any help
Earl LaMott
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Earl-
A loose throttle shaft WILL make your 129 run erradically, but you do not need to buy a new carb. Fix the one you have:
http://cubfaq.com/throttle.html
The FAQ talks about a "mulit-layered" washer, but I've used a pair of Hillman #58087 bronze bushings with success. You can usually get them at a small town hardware store that carries "Hillman" brand hardware. The big-box-stores in my area do not carry them. If you can't find them in your area, drop me an email and I can probably get some in an envelope to ya. I like to keep a small stock here "just in case".
A loose throttle shaft WILL make your 129 run erradically, but you do not need to buy a new carb. Fix the one you have:
http://cubfaq.com/throttle.html
The FAQ talks about a "mulit-layered" washer, but I've used a pair of Hillman #58087 bronze bushings with success. You can usually get them at a small town hardware store that carries "Hillman" brand hardware. The big-box-stores in my area do not carry them. If you can't find them in your area, drop me an email and I can probably get some in an envelope to ya. I like to keep a small stock here "just in case".
glippert
Well-known member
Earl -
You may be able to repair your sloppy shaft. Check out the Manuals section of this forum for a Kohler Carburetor Repair instructions (http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Kohler%20TT321A%20Throttle%20Shaft%20Repair.pdf).
Matt Gonitzke, a member of this forum, also has a very good tutorial on rebuilding carbs (complete with high quality photos) on his personal website. http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf. (Thanks Matt)
If repair isn't an option, check with the sponsors - I bought a good rebuilt carb from CC Specialties. If you don't see any carbs on their website, don't assume they don't have one - give them a call. Odds are, they have just what you need. Good luck.
You may be able to repair your sloppy shaft. Check out the Manuals section of this forum for a Kohler Carburetor Repair instructions (http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Kohler%20TT321A%20Throttle%20Shaft%20Repair.pdf).
Matt Gonitzke, a member of this forum, also has a very good tutorial on rebuilding carbs (complete with high quality photos) on his personal website. http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf. (Thanks Matt)
If repair isn't an option, check with the sponsors - I bought a good rebuilt carb from CC Specialties. If you don't see any carbs on their website, don't assume they don't have one - give them a call. Odds are, they have just what you need. Good luck.
glippert
Well-known member
Art, you're too quick for me! I breezed through the FAQ's and didn't see that one, even though I've read it before. It's tough gettin' old!
Thanks for all the input, Guys!
A closer inspection of the belt told me it was a STENS belt, intended for "implement use", 1/2" x 80".
I'm not sure if a STENS belt is of any lesser quality than a OE Cub/MTD belt or not.
I learned long ago not to try using a 'furnace belt' on a Cub!
As you said, Dennis, 15 seconds is about all it lasted!
I will see if I can pick up the proper 3/8" x 80" IHC belt tomorrow.
If I have to order one, I'll likely order it from one of our sponsors' at the top of the page.
In the meantime, I will inspect my two mule drive pulleys very closely for wear...
Thanks again, Guys!
RWilke
A closer inspection of the belt told me it was a STENS belt, intended for "implement use", 1/2" x 80".
I'm not sure if a STENS belt is of any lesser quality than a OE Cub/MTD belt or not.
I learned long ago not to try using a 'furnace belt' on a Cub!
I will see if I can pick up the proper 3/8" x 80" IHC belt tomorrow.
If I have to order one, I'll likely order it from one of our sponsors' at the top of the page.
In the meantime, I will inspect my two mule drive pulleys very closely for wear...
Thanks again, Guys!
RWilke
mpatterson
Well-known member
I just don't know but chasing wiring issues HAS to be the worst! I replaced the key switch on my 982 because of previous issues I had. Picked that one up Saturday morning, and installed it. Turned the key - LIGHTS! Yeppie! So I didn't start it, figured all was fine, went on and did all my weed wack'n and trimming. Had lunch come out to start mowing. Turned the key... NOTHING!!!
Anyway, I grabbed hold of the wires on the back side of the amp gauge and tried moving them on the post. Well, I got the action from the key switch that I wanted and actually got it to fire and RUN! So needless to say I didn't touch the wires again on that. So for the first few mintues it was running, I watched and listend and noticed the gauge was DIS-CHARGING? Needle was bouncing around on the negative side and then finally came to rest at negative nubmer and stopped. Wouldn't move or wiggle or anything. So I just said heck with it, lets see if it really is dis-charging or not. I backed it out and went to mow the lawn. 3 hours later it was still runing and the needle hadn't moved? Shut it off when I was done and the needle went back to zero. I walked by it today and just turned the key to see if there was power to the lights, yep!
