Here's a few price lists.
Archive through May 19, 2008
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Here's a 1964 price list:
Here's a 1965 price list:
Here's a 1965 price list:
Here's the order form from 1969 when my parents bought a brand new model 125 Cub Cadet. I now have this Cub Cadet and it's getting refurbished and is going to get a Killer Kohler.
Jimmy, yes a blade from a 782 or a 682 should fit right onto a 1100 or a 1650. The main thing to look for on a 1650 would be the motor mounts. The Quiet Line series of which the 1650 is from uses an ISO mounted engine to reduce vibration. The rubber ISO mounts wear out and can cause problems. Check out the info in the FAQ on ISO MOUNTS
Todd, please email the photos to me and I'll post them. As "Keeper of the photos" I don't have any posting size limit, other then guilt for making peoples screens go too wide or Jerry B's dialup downloads too slow.
Kraig, May I take you up on sending some pics of this Kohlerized, home made manual pto clutch setup on my 1100 in hopes that somebody can help me figure out how to make the mower deck work without destroy the clutch pack? (3 times so far)
jfejedelem
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- James Fejedelem
I am new to cub cadets but from what I have read the 1100, and 1650 are wide frame tractors? Does anyone know if a loose throttle shaft on the 1100 pos would cause the no load top rpm to race, and when you engauge the blades it brings the rpms to normal? Thanks Jimmy
Mike, feel free to send me photos and I'll post them for you. My email is in my profile.
Jimmy, yes, both the 1100 and the 1650 are considered "Wide Frames". I'll let someone else comment on the throttle/RPM query.
Jimmy, yes, both the 1100 and the 1650 are considered "Wide Frames". I'll let someone else comment on the throttle/RPM query.
Well I had to replace the worn driveshaft in my 100 due to a broken teaser spring.
As anyone who has worked on a narrow frame, low tunnel cover cub cadet, can tell you that it aint much fun.
I have even heard that removing the 2 front engine bolts above the front axle can be loads of fun to remove.
I happen to have a perfictly good spare driveshaft completely assembled in my parts shed so I will not have to dissasemble the old one.
I laid the loosened the first bolt on the cub at 12 noon sharp.
Anyone care to take a guess as to how long it takes from start to finish, to replace a driveshaft in a 100?
As anyone who has worked on a narrow frame, low tunnel cover cub cadet, can tell you that it aint much fun.
I have even heard that removing the 2 front engine bolts above the front axle can be loads of fun to remove.
I happen to have a perfictly good spare driveshaft completely assembled in my parts shed so I will not have to dissasemble the old one.
I laid the loosened the first bolt on the cub at 12 noon sharp.
Anyone care to take a guess as to how long it takes from start to finish, to replace a driveshaft in a 100?
Well, seeing how I have had a little exsperience in removing the engine from the cubs.
It took me a total of 2 hours from the time I loosened the first bolt to when I fired up the cub and took a ride around the place.
I removed the hood & front grill to make removal of the motor easyer.
I have to give myself a pat on the back, cause this time when I set the motor back in the frame I only had give the motor a slite nudge to get all 4 motor mount bolts to line up.
And it is possable to remove the 2 bolts from above the axle and replace them without having to tilt the axle out of the way.
It took me a total of 2 hours from the time I loosened the first bolt to when I fired up the cub and took a ride around the place.
I removed the hood & front grill to make removal of the motor easyer.
I have to give myself a pat on the back, cause this time when I set the motor back in the frame I only had give the motor a slite nudge to get all 4 motor mount bolts to line up.
And it is possable to remove the 2 bolts from above the axle and replace them without having to tilt the axle out of the way.
Matt G. - How did you make out with your balance gear removal? I was browsing the archives and saw that you used the cold chisel method to get the second gear out, but had lots of metal shards left over. I just did the same thing. The gear came out in three big chunks, but I can't help but feel that there are some tiny shards in there waiting to ruin my crank bearings or something. Any advice? Thanks!
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
If any one is interested we replaced the O-ring on the internal brake input plunger on my neighbors 1450 today. I had asked about it some time ago since I knew we had to replace it due to a leak. I had never replaced one before but once I see how easy it is I may replace some more on my Cubs when I do a hydro fluid change, just to be on the safe side..
Removing the bracket that pushes on the plunger was easy. Just remove the adjusting bolt completely and the shaft that holds the bracket will slide out, with a little persuasion. Remove the cotter key on the brake rod to the bracket and you can remove the entire bracket.
Once you remove the bracket there is a short small rod that pushes on a ball bearing, remove them and the O-ring assembly can be pulled out with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Now a smart man may have already drained the hydro fluid but if there are two of you one man can remove the O-ring assembly and another man can quickly place his hand with maybe some plastic over the opening and you wont lose much fluid.
The first man can remove the old O-ring from the assembly, clean it and put on a new O-ring. Then quickly replace the O-ring assembly in the rear end opening as soon as the second man removes his hand from the opening.
Then just re-assemble the bracket and make the brake adjustment per the manual, and top off the hydro fluid. I doubt we lost a 1/2 quart of hydro fluid.
Removing the bracket that pushes on the plunger was easy. Just remove the adjusting bolt completely and the shaft that holds the bracket will slide out, with a little persuasion. Remove the cotter key on the brake rod to the bracket and you can remove the entire bracket.
Once you remove the bracket there is a short small rod that pushes on a ball bearing, remove them and the O-ring assembly can be pulled out with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Now a smart man may have already drained the hydro fluid but if there are two of you one man can remove the O-ring assembly and another man can quickly place his hand with maybe some plastic over the opening and you wont lose much fluid.
The first man can remove the old O-ring from the assembly, clean it and put on a new O-ring. Then quickly replace the O-ring assembly in the rear end opening as soon as the second man removes his hand from the opening.
Then just re-assemble the bracket and make the brake adjustment per the manual, and top off the hydro fluid. I doubt we lost a 1/2 quart of hydro fluid.
jfejedelem
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- May 16, 2008
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- James Fejedelem
Thanks for the info glen, the other problem I should have stated earlier is I had to take the low speed mixture screw out 3-4 turns to make it idle. When I check for vacume leaks the only spot I get a reaction is at the throttle shaft, but I know they will always react a little bit at the throttle shaft. I was hoping some one has seen this in the past. Thanks for any info Jimmy.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Christopher C.-
I spent a ton of time wiping metal flecks out of the case and gears on the crank and cam. After I couldn't find any more chunks or flecks, I put it all back together and put a magnet on the drain plug. I'll change the oil in a couple weeks after it hits about an hour of run time and see what I find on there.
James F.-
Those Briggs carbs are notorious for hunting and galloping as a result of a worn throttle shaft.
I spent a ton of time wiping metal flecks out of the case and gears on the crank and cam. After I couldn't find any more chunks or flecks, I put it all back together and put a magnet on the drain plug. I'll change the oil in a couple weeks after it hits about an hour of run time and see what I find on there.
James F.-
Those Briggs carbs are notorious for hunting and galloping as a result of a worn throttle shaft.
Matt,
I plan to do the same. I've got a K301 with a broken rod that I practiced on to get the technique down. I found that if you put the chisel on the narrow part of the gear, right near where it transitions to the wider section, it will break fairly clean, with minimal shards. That's what I did on the good 14hp that I was working on, but I think there might be some tiny flecks of metal hiding somewhere
.
I plan to do the same. I've got a K301 with a broken rod that I practiced on to get the technique down. I found that if you put the chisel on the narrow part of the gear, right near where it transitions to the wider section, it will break fairly clean, with minimal shards. That's what I did on the good 14hp that I was working on, but I think there might be some tiny flecks of metal hiding somewhere
mjrobilotta
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- Michael Jonathan Robilotta (Boots)
well my 100 wasnt quite right from the start. it was doing pretty good for some time and just took a big ol dive. its have clutch problems, pto problems, battery problems, and i know im forgetting sumthin. itll come to me
