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Archive through May 17, 2010
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
KENtucky -- My point was that the new screws I got from the dealer only fit about half of my spindles. The rest seem to require a slightly smaller screw of the same type. If I can't find some maybe I can have my machinist redo the spindle holes/threads so the right bolts fit.
J
jott
Guest
Kraig, my 147 has both the shrouds on it and so does a buddies 127 i have sittin here. i know my 147 was built earlier in production. the po of my 125 cut out a square peice of the tunnel cover, but they welded it back in. only they welded the corners. So id have to weld along were they cut the peice out, grind it and sand it down. they actually did a pretty good job putting it back on.
Yeah I better admit that I was probably wrong about the fan guard and skid plate. Oh well after about 10+ years of posting here I was bound to be wrong once.
}COIL MOUNTING - 682}
Greetings! Brand new owner of a nice 682 with the series II Kohler engine. Just found this forum while researching and this is my first post. I am having some spark issues - so I ordered a new dual supercoil from dave kirk. I also ordered new plug wires, the pointsaver module, and his ball-bearing steering mod. My question is: has anybody else installed this coil? I don't see any obvious spot to mount it on. Maybe I am missing something, or I need to fab a new mount? Any help would be greatly appreciated - the grass is not waiting for me to get this running! Thanks!
James
Greetings! Brand new owner of a nice 682 with the series II Kohler engine. Just found this forum while researching and this is my first post. I am having some spark issues - so I ordered a new dual supercoil from dave kirk. I also ordered new plug wires, the pointsaver module, and his ball-bearing steering mod. My question is: has anybody else installed this coil? I don't see any obvious spot to mount it on. Maybe I am missing something, or I need to fab a new mount? Any help would be greatly appreciated - the grass is not waiting for me to get this running! Thanks!
James
James, WELCOME!
Hopefully someone will have an answer or suggestion for you soon.
Hopefully someone will have an answer or suggestion for you soon.
FRANK S. - I have the new plastic tank on the K321 in my CC 72. It fits the tank bracket fine but the fuel valve on the bottom "plugs" in thru a grommet, no 1/8" NPT threads like the sediment bulb/fuel shutoff requires and NO WAY to tap the proper threads. So you'll need to swap to rubber fuel line, also use an in-lne filter, and get a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" fuel line hose barb BRASS right-angle fitting from the plumbing supply dept. of your favorite hardware store to attach to your carb gas inlet. The shutoff on the new plastic tank already has a plastic 1/4" hose barb molded to it. I hope you have better luck than I did keeping the the supplied gas cap low enough to let the hood close properly. The supplied gas cap is HUGE, very tall.
I'm also curious what Wayne has against in-line filters. I've run in-lines on ALL my CC's & FARMALL Super H for years. I'd have one on the M but it's still got the factory steel gas line and I won't cut it up.
The one in-line filter I retired 5 yrs ago on the 72 would even filter water out of the gas, was an old filter I used on my OSSA motorcycle 20 yrs ago, Pyrex clear see-thru sleeve, chrome plated diecast end fittings, Viton o-ring seals, and the reusable molded nylon filter sleeve had VERY tiny slits to filter the gas. About 15 yrs ago I'd been mowing for maybe 40-45 minutes, the K241 in the 72 started sputtering, running rough, then died. I checked the gas tank, still over half full, checked the fuel filter, some crude in it but the gas looked very clear! I pinched the rubber fuel line off with a pair of Vice-grips, took the filter apart and it was full of water outside the whole filter sleeve, the inside was empty. I rinsed the sleeve off, reassembled the filter, released the vice-grips, walked back to the shop to return the vice-grips and the 72 started right back up when I returned.
The main fuel valve fitting for the float valve in the Kohler's Carter carb is VERY tiny, and the other gas passages are small also, doesn't take much to plug them up. I don't think you can keep your gasoline & fuel system "Too Clean".
I'm also curious what Wayne has against in-line filters. I've run in-lines on ALL my CC's & FARMALL Super H for years. I'd have one on the M but it's still got the factory steel gas line and I won't cut it up.
The one in-line filter I retired 5 yrs ago on the 72 would even filter water out of the gas, was an old filter I used on my OSSA motorcycle 20 yrs ago, Pyrex clear see-thru sleeve, chrome plated diecast end fittings, Viton o-ring seals, and the reusable molded nylon filter sleeve had VERY tiny slits to filter the gas. About 15 yrs ago I'd been mowing for maybe 40-45 minutes, the K241 in the 72 started sputtering, running rough, then died. I checked the gas tank, still over half full, checked the fuel filter, some crude in it but the gas looked very clear! I pinched the rubber fuel line off with a pair of Vice-grips, took the filter apart and it was full of water outside the whole filter sleeve, the inside was empty. I rinsed the sleeve off, reassembled the filter, released the vice-grips, walked back to the shop to return the vice-grips and the 72 started right back up when I returned.
The main fuel valve fitting for the float valve in the Kohler's Carter carb is VERY tiny, and the other gas passages are small also, doesn't take much to plug them up. I don't think you can keep your gasoline & fuel system "Too Clean".
Ken -- It turns out tmy problem isn't as serious as I thought. The hole is actually a 3/8", but there was residue on the inside that prevented the screw from going in. It took my machinist about 30 seconds to remove the residue using a threaded cutter he twisted into the hole by hand. I assume my other spindles need similar attention.
Time to change the seat on my 1512 and because of new storage not started yet, I feel great today. Its only been eight days this time. So with six tractors in here ,its path walk ways , have to start them everyday and move them outside. well the 147 decided not to start,new wires and battery this spring
Now I see the carger says 3% charged. I will have to find some info as to what is up. not chargeing I know, Charger at 2 A , I might have to push this
i was just thinking today about seeing if i could get the plastic tank on my push mower to fit, just to see if it runs after i clean the carb.
as for not listening to all the posts about getting the tractor to run, i do not know what you are referring too. i will admit, my one mistake, was assuming the fuel tank was still clean.
many suggested a fuel problem and i was going to spray gas into the carb when it started to stall, which would have proven ,or disproved ,the fuel problem theory, but I went with trying premium gas first, which led me to discover all the rust.
my plan now is to start over. remove carb, clean. remove fuel line, clean. replace tank. check timing, points, check for mouse nest in shroud. then if it still stalls, i will be back.
I am also going to see about getting another working engine. drastic solution i know, but then i could have my engine rebuilt, and finally figure out what was wrong.
as for not listening to all the posts about getting the tractor to run, i do not know what you are referring too. i will admit, my one mistake, was assuming the fuel tank was still clean.
many suggested a fuel problem and i was going to spray gas into the carb when it started to stall, which would have proven ,or disproved ,the fuel problem theory, but I went with trying premium gas first, which led me to discover all the rust.
my plan now is to start over. remove carb, clean. remove fuel line, clean. replace tank. check timing, points, check for mouse nest in shroud. then if it still stalls, i will be back.
I am also going to see about getting another working engine. drastic solution i know, but then i could have my engine rebuilt, and finally figure out what was wrong.
Wayne S. / Dennis F.,
I see Wayne's point about, Why have redundant fuel filters, but I also agree with Dennis that you can't have fuel too clean......
My fuel tank petcock is screened and does a good job. However, I too have an see-through in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb.
In my eyes, the main purpose of my in-line fuel filter is to provide me the ability to, with a quick glance, determine if fuel is getting to my carb. If it isn't, then I know my petcock screen is becoming plugged. If/when the petcock screen becomes deteriorated, then the in-line filter would serve as a fuel 'polishing' filter. I've not had any problems with the in-line filter preventing fuel from getting to the carb. I'd rather change out the in-line filter once a year than need to remove and clean the carb. Just my opinions & limited experience.
Ryan Wilke
I see Wayne's point about, Why have redundant fuel filters, but I also agree with Dennis that you can't have fuel too clean......
My fuel tank petcock is screened and does a good job. However, I too have an see-through in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb.
In my eyes, the main purpose of my in-line fuel filter is to provide me the ability to, with a quick glance, determine if fuel is getting to my carb. If it isn't, then I know my petcock screen is becoming plugged. If/when the petcock screen becomes deteriorated, then the in-line filter would serve as a fuel 'polishing' filter. I've not had any problems with the in-line filter preventing fuel from getting to the carb. I'd rather change out the in-line filter once a year than need to remove and clean the carb. Just my opinions & limited experience.
Ryan Wilke
Ryan - I had so much trouble on the 1882 that I have 2 in-line filters. Before and after the fuel pump.
I'd rather take the screen out (if no sediment bowl) and let the filth run into the filter then I would be able to see that there is a problem coming instead of waiting for it to stop up the tank outlet and leave me stranded maybe in the middle of a dangerous road mowing around my mail box. ( When they come around this blind curve at my house they are usually doing 60+ with their foot in the firewall gaining more speed.)
I'd rather take the screen out (if no sediment bowl) and let the filth run into the filter then I would be able to see that there is a problem coming instead of waiting for it to stop up the tank outlet and leave me stranded maybe in the middle of a dangerous road mowing around my mail box. ( When they come around this blind curve at my house they are usually doing 60+ with their foot in the firewall gaining more speed.)
FRANK S. - Forgot to mention, haven't checked the price lately but I paid $80 US for my eight qt. plastic gas tank about 5-6 yrs ago. I remember my local dealer who stocks LOTS of CC parts had to special order it for me.
The in-line billet red anodized alum. filter I run on the K321 on the CC 72 was from Summit Racing, supposed to be able to feed a 400 HP engine. But it looks nice with the braided SS hose & red & blue anodized AN fittings the tank, fuel pump, & carb are plumbed with. The original over-size fuel tank SON & I made had a rear sump so low to gain volume I had to run a fuel pump to get gas UP to the carb. It held about 11-1/2 quarts. SON says out next tank will be POLISHED Aluminum!
The in-line billet red anodized alum. filter I run on the K321 on the CC 72 was from Summit Racing, supposed to be able to feed a 400 HP engine. But it looks nice with the braided SS hose & red & blue anodized AN fittings the tank, fuel pump, & carb are plumbed with. The original over-size fuel tank SON & I made had a rear sump so low to gain volume I had to run a fuel pump to get gas UP to the carb. It held about 11-1/2 quarts. SON says out next tank will be POLISHED Aluminum!
I need to indtall a roll pin on my 122 for the
driveshaft coupling are there any trics to this?
Do yall like my new tagline?
driveshaft coupling are there any trics to this?
Do yall like my new tagline?
James,
I believe that coil is under the sheet metal.
My neighbor had to pull his engine to find his.
I may be wrong on this, because he had a 1812.
but I know he had a heck uv a time replacing the coil in his.
You may want to direct your question in the CCC\MTD forum section for better answers to this.
Go to the top of this page, click on topics, and scroll down to the CCC|MTD forum.
Hope this helps.
Brad
I believe that coil is under the sheet metal.
My neighbor had to pull his engine to find his.
I may be wrong on this, because he had a 1812.
but I know he had a heck uv a time replacing the coil in his.
You may want to direct your question in the CCC\MTD forum section for better answers to this.
Go to the top of this page, click on topics, and scroll down to the CCC|MTD forum.
Hope this helps.
Brad
