Archive through January 14, 2011

[dfrisk]

MATT - 40 degrees shouldn't hurt a hydro or a cylinder. My 982 has hyd. lift, probably the same components as your 1650, and although I haven't run it much in winter, no blade, blower, chains, etc for it, I have used the hyd lift a L-O-T under high loads on the 3-pt hitch which uses that same cylinder with no problems, some exceeding it's lift capacity as it wouldn't raise the load on the hitch. Cold oil does pump up to a higher pressure because it's thicker but shouldn't be enough to cause cyl. failure.

I'd remove the center frame cover and see if there's something bent putting the cylinder ito a bind when moving through the length of the stroke. Cylinder won't BEND around corners.

The lift force required for a QA-42 would be much greater than even a #50 deck so any problem would be worse with the blower attached. Might be something as simple as a sheared roll pin. There's several on the rockshaft for that vintage CC.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank, looks like someone ran that without the fiber button on the engagement lever. The engagement lever wore the PTO thrust button except for where the hole on the engagement lever is, leaving the stub. The hole on the engagement lever is where the fiber button should be.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tim K., JB has a good point, where's the air filter? You should not run it very long without it. BTW, my #1 125, which my parents bought new in 1969, was very much abused by me when I was 9 years old.

I wish I had a dollar for every wheelie I pulled with it, I might have enough money to pay for the refurb. I quit doing wheelies with it when I nearly flipped it over backwards.

 

[fsnerd]

Kraig McConaughey-
so, could I run it without the fiber button, it cant hurt it any more then it is, can it?
If the clutch works I could use it while fixing the 128, then remove and repair the 129 clutch.

 

[tkiste]

JB
The air filter is laying on the work bench. It had vibrated loose. I didn't want any little screws to wind up in the cylinder so we just pulled it off. Figured it wasn't too dusty in the snow as long as he doesn't suck in a bunch of fluffy white stuff. We have some work to do when we get a chance and can get the barn warmed up. Can get it up around 50-60 degrees when it is 20-30 outside but its been 0-15 lately. Between Boy Scouts, school plays, band and 4H our tractor time runs short.

 

[wshytle]

Frank S.-

You will be so much better off if you just plan to pull the pto and go through it completely. After a pto sits with pressure on the clutch disc any moisture will bring on rust. The surface of both plates needs to be smooth/resurfaced. From the looks of things on the video you have rust issues. The three spring levers have to recess in a slot on the thrust button. It's hard to see exactly what you have going on but it's easy to see you need a rebuild. Kits are around $50 and include most, if not all of what you'll need including an adjustment gauge tool. It should have a new clutch dics (fiber), two triangular main springs (because it's a WF), and the tool. Everything else is bought separate and these parts can add up quick. There are three small springs that separate the plates from inside and are NOT included in the kit. The throwout levers may need replacing because the tips wear. The best way for you to beat this is pull that pto and start learning about what makes them tick. Once you get it apart go to the parts look-up and compare. You can start with the tractors serial number to determine when it was made and what type of pto it had. Safety factors arose and that's why this model has two types. The later pto has the brake for safety.

I know this may seem to be a lot but once you learn about and understand this part it will be easier to troubleshoot in the future. Also, it pays to do it right because it will last many years before maintenance is needed again; just be sure it's adjusted correctly.

One last thing, when you start reading about anti-rattle spring clips just ignore them for now. They are for noise reduction and help keep the clutch favoring one side but aren't necessary for good pto function. They're also a pita to install if you've never done it.

Once again, good luck!

 

[mlamar]

Can I swap a CC 1650 fender pan with a 782 red one?
Thanks
Mike

 

[fsnerd]

Wayne Shytle -

i have two tractors I cant move snow with and 2' of snow to move.
I was hoping for a quick temporary fix.
get one working while I fix the other.
oh well. guess I should give up on the snow and aim for getting one ready in time to cut grass.

 

[mgonitzke]

Matt S.-

What do you mean by 'blowing' the lift? That's not very descriptive and you are probably the only one that understands what you meant by that. Or at least I don't

The cylinder is probably rated for at least 1500 psi, the hoses even more. The limiting factor is the charge pump. The Sundstrand manual for the hydro claims the max. charge pump output that is ok for the hydro unit is 800 psi. The later 82 series tractors were close to that.

 

[mgonitzke]

Mike-

They are different enough that it won't work.

 

[mlamar]

Thanks Matt, that answered it for me.

Hey Guys (and gals)
Can't Frank run his tractor with the PTO disengaged just to push snow with a front snow/dirt blade? Just to get by for the winter?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank, yes you could run it with the PTO engaged and use a dozer blade as Mike mentioned. (I believe Mike meant to say engaged.

) Engaged means the PTO engagement lever is in the forward position. In the engaged position the engagement lever will not be causing further wear as it will not be resting on the PTO thrust button. If you want to use a snowthrower you would be best off swapping out or rebuilding the PTO.

 

[fsnerd]

yes, I know I could push snow with a plow, if i had a plow.
as I said, it is probably best if I stop trying to get something ready for snow and just work on getting one of them ready for grass.

now I just have to decide which to work on first, PTO clutch, which has to have the screws drilled out, or replacing the exhaust valve.

suppose I could buy a third tractor.
with a snow plow.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank, certainly you could try running a snowthrower with it. If I'm understanding correctly, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the tractor that "runs" has the PTO (with the damaged thrust button), but no engagement lever, so the PTO is always engaged. Correct? If so, you'll have to be <blink><font color="ff0000">*</font></blink>very<blink><font color="ff0000">*</font></blink> careful because the snowthrower will always be turning when the tractor is running...

 

[fsnerd]

replacing an exhaust valve on a K301A.

engine stalls when hot, under load and at full throttle. have checked everything you guys suggested except replacing the exhaust valve.
since I have never replaced an exhaust valve before, I wanted to to ask for suggestions on the best way to do it.
I have the engine service manual that describes valve removal as part of engine disassembly, is there better instructions I should use?

I assume it cant be done in the tractor, engine has to be removed?

any other parts I should replace while I am there?

I am assuming there is no machining involved. I am only replacing parts.

 

[dtanner]

Matt G

(Got company but I looked up the manual for your tractor a 1650 and the charge pressure is 200 psi and the lift presure should be 500 to 625 psi . If your over that you could blow seals.
) You can blow seals if the line presure is to high in respect to function. Yse , a hose will take more pressure but that not what we need.enuf pressure to move what we want with what we have ,isn`t that it.

 

[fsnerd]

Kraig McConaughey -
yes, that is correct. and I did think of that. and I am sure I would get more then an extension cord or dog run wrapped in it if I tried it without the clutch linkage to turn it off.
I could move the PTO linkage from the 128 to the 129, but if the PTO clutch does not work, it would be a waste of time.
the PO must have used the PTO clutch at one time, then removed the linkage. all linkage.

 

[mlamar]

Kraig
Did I hear you say I was engaged

. Wait until my wife hears this.

Appreciate the correction, I thinks its age related but what do I know.
Hey Frank, Didn't know ya only had a snow thrower...sounds like you have a few projects going. Hope you can have at lest one of your Cubs running properly just to ride around in the snow. If you were just a little closer I'd loan you a snow blade. Good luck

 

[dtanner]

frank snerd

I can`t help you and would if I could! do me a favor and remove them four bolts from the bottom of that K and the fuel line and the throttle cable and choke cable and give your engine to a guy that can install a exhaust vale correctly. These Cubs work so nice that if you have it timed and carb close they will hum.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

Huh?

Even if the charge pump is putting out 1000 psi, that is still below the rating of the cylinder, and won't cause it to 'blow'. If the cylinder is rated for 1500 psi, and the system pressure is 1000 psi, that is below what will blow the seals. The cylinder's pressure rating includes the seals, as they are part of the cylinder. Not to mention there is a factor of safety built into all of this. Before we split too many hairs he needs to tell us what exactly he meant by 'blowing the lift'...

Frank S.-

The engine can stay in the tractor. Remove the carb, head, breather, compress the valve spring, remove the keepers, pull the valve out, remove the spring and keepers temporarily, and then lightly lap the new valve into the seat with valve grinding compound. Clean up all of the valve grinding compound, and make absolutely sure you don't get any on the valve stem or in the guide. Oil the guide well, reinstall the spring and keepers, and reset the valve lash, and then reinstall everything you had to remove.