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Lucas,
I'm assuming it is the coupling on the engine side of the driveshaft? If so, then, nope, no biggie.
If you have a screen cover, remove it. Then ensure that the coupling opening and the driveshaft hole are aligned. Tap in the spirol pin far enough so that it sticks out a little bit on each side of the coupling. Replace the screen cover.
If you have a long (about 12") punch, the task of finding your hammer may take you longer than tapping the pin in!
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Good Luck!
Ryan Wilke
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P.S.
Oops! --- I just hit me you've got a 122 NOT a 123! So,,,, there may be more to it with a gear drive -- I just don't have one to know the difference..... Sorry.
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I know I am a little late but with the talk about in line fuel filters and gravity fed fuel systems I thought I would show you how the PO had the fuel line setup after he replaced the original fuel tank with one out of a crapsman. I currently have it this way but I got the right fuel tank on the way. I will say I don't seem to have a fuel supply problem like I thought I would.

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1450. I don’t know if to laugh or cry. It seems everything I touch on this machine turns to other work. I went in to do a simple change of hydro oil filter. In the process I opened the frame cover thinking I might be able to get some better leverage there. What I found instead is only remnants of the cooling fan. The bolts on the flexible disc ripped off the fan blades so there is only the center core. Can I run without the fan, or will is cause further problems? How do I remove and replace the fan? What is the “ball” I’m supposed to be aware of? Patience and money are short these days. I need to get mowing and the spindles I purchased for the deck aren’t here yet either..

Also, I still have a hydro drip. I can’t find it only where it drips down. At first I thought that it was the check valve as one spit at me when I started the engine to test the oil filter but I don’t know what to expect there and that may be perfectly normal. There is a drip or so that lays on top of both of the valves after running the engine for fifteen minutes. It doesn’t look as if there is enough to see what I see underneath..

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Gary S You must replace fan before you work it to much the hydro need cooling, on the 1x9 series you must un-bolt the engine and move it forward to pull the drive shaft to replace the fan. (not hard just time consuming)i am not sure about the ball your refering to.
The drip looks like its coming from the cork hydro gasket
 
I don't know what all the fuss is over inline filters. Maybe I'm just a stickler for carb cleaning. I do use inline filters where the fuel is pushed or pulled through the lines. I have an old '77 Ford that left me on the side of the road more than once because if the super fine filter that screws into the side of the carb. I ended up drilling out one of those filters and installing an inline down by the fuel pump. It still works fine today. I use premium fuel (which I hope doesn't start something else here) in everything and as long as I know the fuel system is clean I feel I shouldn't have any problems and don't. I feel these carbs will handle and pass anything that can make it through the screen that IH put on there in the first place as long as the fuel is fresh and the engine is functioning as it should. We'd all probably be surprised at the solids that make it through even with mutiple filters. Water is another thing all together. If one has water in his system then there's something else going on and that needs immediate attention.

Bottom line, if it works for you or just looks "cool" then by all means go for it.
 
Gary S after looking again at your picture you have a problem, you have 1 to many flex conectors and the ball bearing goes between the shaft and hydro coupler see page 2-26 in the sevice manual
 
Brad-

The KT he has has a coil, points, and condenser like a K-series, and no mag under the shroud like an M18.

James-

You'll have to make a bracket, as the OEM coil mounts to the intake manifold.

Jeff-

2 flex couplers is better than 1 as long as they aren't stretched or squashed.

Gary-

There's a 5/8" bearing ball and a spherical bronze ball bushing in the rear coupler. Make sure those are there and in good shape. Also, make sure the rear coupler isn't wobbling on the shaft.
 
Matt wouldn't the extra space from the second flex couple keep the drive shaft pin from reaching the ball bearing and rear coupler hole?
I have never tried this and am not near my cubs.
 
Gary when you do reassemble everything read the manual as it gives a measurement for fan placement. The fan on my 149 was missing all blades.
I think when the hydraulic lift went back

the cotter pin caught them and
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times five.
 
First hello, I've been a past member of this site but just found some new interest for my Cub 125. Is there someway to view this forum by the posts subject? All I can view is just a page of all the current posts with no subject lines. I can't follow the discussions very well. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Mark
 

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