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Archive through May 16, 2006
- Thread starter kcrain
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Lonny- it does sound like the soleniod is sticking. does it turn over as soon as you put that wire on? when you polarize the s/g your matching the battery polarity to the generator polarity.do this by connecting a jumper wire between the regulator battery terminal and armature terminals.just touch the terminals momentarily,all wires should be connected and before you start the engine when you do this.this is for a "A" circuit generator,do you have the delco-remy id number on the generator?T
CHARLIE---- Yepper... "LINCOLN LOCKER"... but Mine would be a "Miller Locker"
Both the "Blue Box" variety and malted beverage assisted!
WYATT - To get your LP HP and torque back You'd probably have to shave a good 1/8" off Your block and/or head on the 169. LP likes a LOT of compression..... Didn't You or Travis have an old LP head? I've got a trailer mounted 42 gal. LP tank from an old LP delivery truck You could pull behind the 169 as a fuel tank.... It'd give You some awesome run-time.
WYATT - To get your LP HP and torque back You'd probably have to shave a good 1/8" off Your block and/or head on the 169. LP likes a LOT of compression..... Didn't You or Travis have an old LP head? I've got a trailer mounted 42 gal. LP tank from an old LP delivery truck You could pull behind the 169 as a fuel tank.... It'd give You some awesome run-time.
Kraig,
To answer your question yesterday on if it was mine or not. It is now!
To answer your question yesterday on if it was mine or not. It is now!
Charlie, Monday evening while I was tilling the neighbors garden I was thinking about old Joe <font size="-2">(I was looking at the hardly worn tines on my MTD rear tine tiller and thought of those worn tines on Joes tiller)</font>. Good to hear the battery is still charged up.
On the LP Cub, COOL!
On the LP Cub, COOL!
Charlie P.- there is a company that sells a set up for kohler engines, I almost bought one about 2 years ago, they are from out West in Arizona or something, back then the whole set up was going to run right at $200.
Tyler T,
Impco is still around, but I boubt they have a conversion kit for 200 bucks.
Impco is still around, but I boubt they have a conversion kit for 200 bucks.
Kraig,
I dunno what it is about that 123 but it just FEELS GOOD everytime I get on it. And I have to thank you again for putting me in touch with it and Joe.
I dunno what it is about that 123 but it just FEELS GOOD everytime I get on it. And I have to thank you again for putting me in touch with it and Joe.
KEN - Actually..... It would look like He was shooting Anhydrous.....The tank is the right size & shape....Dad was a FS Fuel transport driver and had connections to get a tank like that filled and gave it to Me when LP was cheap to run a 30,000 BTU heater in My shop. Since I insulated the shop 3-4 yrs ago it stays warm longer and I haven't used the LP heater since. I bet there's still 20-25 gal. of LP in the tank. THAT would run a Cubbie Quite a while!
Thanks Ken,
I may need to make a call or 3 after I get it home.
According to the PO all that supposed to be wrong with it is no spark.
Course we've all heard that before!
I may need to make a call or 3 after I get it home.
According to the PO all that supposed to be wrong with it is no spark.
Course we've all heard that before!
Found the electrical problem.
With some help from MEO.
The new voltage regulator I installed was sticking.
I tweaked the point arm a bit and now it works like it should.
No more 12 volts going to the starter when the key is removed from the key switch.
With some help from MEO.
The new voltage regulator I installed was sticking.
I tweaked the point arm a bit and now it works like it should.
No more 12 volts going to the starter when the key is removed from the key switch.
David:
I've got two brand new out of the box SKF 6308-J bearings and I can't get either of them on the crank. I've even tried throwing the crank in the freezer with out much luck. I've lubed up both the crank and the ID of the bearing.
They feel like they want to be pressed on which isn't right...
My next attempt is goning to be to warm the bearings a bit with the chilled crank but I really don' think it's going to work.
I hope NAPA takes those bearings back, one of them I'm going to have to press back out.
I've got two brand new out of the box SKF 6308-J bearings and I can't get either of them on the crank. I've even tried throwing the crank in the freezer with out much luck. I've lubed up both the crank and the ID of the bearing.
They feel like they want to be pressed on which isn't right...
My next attempt is goning to be to warm the bearings a bit with the chilled crank but I really don' think it's going to work.
I hope NAPA takes those bearings back, one of them I'm going to have to press back out.
Denny-
The compression would help, but my real problem was that everything I had was oversisized for the engine. At idle I didn't develop enough of a vacumn for the "vent" side of the regulator to make it run correctly. If I could have found a lighter spring I may have corrected the problem. . .. . or hindsight being 20/20 maybe my carb spacer with a fitting to get vacumn to the regulator wasn't giving a strong enough vacum signal.
The compression would help, but my real problem was that everything I had was oversisized for the engine. At idle I didn't develop enough of a vacumn for the "vent" side of the regulator to make it run correctly. If I could have found a lighter spring I may have corrected the problem. . .. . or hindsight being 20/20 maybe my carb spacer with a fitting to get vacumn to the regulator wasn't giving a strong enough vacum signal.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Worked on the loader some more tonight. Had a very successful time building the pump bracket out of an old mule drive and some of the parts from the old Sears loader mount. I'm very pleased with how compact it ended up being.
Two 3/8" carriage bolts and a 3/8" draw bolt to the supporting and tentioning. When I get the final hose routing done I plan on making a loop/bull bar out of 1/2" round stock to weld to the front of the pump bracket to protect the lines and pump.
And.....
A few shots of the loader as it sits tonight....
Mount the valve and add hoses and I'm golden!!!!
Two 3/8" carriage bolts and a 3/8" draw bolt to the supporting and tentioning. When I get the final hose routing done I plan on making a loop/bull bar out of 1/2" round stock to weld to the front of the pump bracket to protect the lines and pump.
And.....
A few shots of the loader as it sits tonight....
Mount the valve and add hoses and I'm golden!!!!
