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I'm learning more and more how things go bad. I was out tilling between the rows for weed control and the 1650 just died. Last year the coil went while tilling but this year it was the rectifier. I found this out after removing the coil and it tested as well as the reserves tested so I reinstalled it, took the rectifier off and replaced it and she fired right up. I did check for fire at first and found that there was none as I suspected. I also just topped the tank off so I knew it wasn't fuel. It just acted like I turned the key to the left with it at WOT. Last year when the coil went it acted like I had lodged a rock in the tiller and bogged it down. It just died immediately and I even towed it back to the shop. This year it was fixed an hour later where it died and the tilling got done.

I wonder what it will be next year???
 
I reinstalled the shroud bolts in the same place I removed them. Wouldnt you notice that at idle as well? All I do know is my frustration is increasing rapidly, seems as I fix one thing another issue presents itself. And this time its a potentially catastrophic issue, at this rate ill have to move it on down the road to somebody who can afford to straighten it out like it deserves. Hopefully that's a last resort. I have yet to try dons broomstick idea to try to pinpoint the location from which the noise is coming. Will report back when I do.
 
OK guys--I am a dumb a$$ and my wife confirms it! I found the schematic for my #2 Tiller in the parts lookup. I should have looked both ways before I crossed the street.
Thanks to all for the heads up.
Best
Lance
 
So far all I've discovered is the aluminum bracket for the muffler box is cracked in two places so fingers crossed that's my noise...
 
Hi Rodney, my report of the cyclone is good. I'll send you an email to the address in your profile.
 
Joseph Smith,

I too have been chasing a nasty vibration noise. I did the engine cradle modification and I installed a "muffler crutch" from David Kirk a couple of years ago. I thought that some of the muffler shroud tin was vibrating and put some silicone on the joints, but it didn't help much.

Tonight I took a good look at it and I think the engine cradle bottom bushings have compressed too far. I used the best bushings on the bottom when I reassembled it, but now they have squashed too much. That enables the engine to lower just slightly, maybe 1/4 - 1/2", but that is enough for the bolts and nuts to hit the flywheel shroud.

Some of our symptoms seem the same. Vibration varies with RPM. Mine gets worse after mowing for awhile (after 1.5 hrs it is terrible).

I think I have found my problem, I hope you have found yours as well.
 
Long long time no talk to boys. How is everyone? I found something interesting today on face book but dummy me cannot figure out how to even post it. I guess I am a wrench turner for life. I will be checking in tomorrow to see how everyone is doing.
 
126 update:

Got all the electrical hooked-up, battery installed and gave it a crank. I can hear a click - like a solenoid, but no crank. That's the bad news. The good news is - no smoke...
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Bill: That probably IS the solenoid. Sounds like a bad ground or a bad solenoid from here.
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Or a bad battery.As Frank stated check your grounds especially at the s/g...
just my 2¢
 
Got the hydraulic lift put in the 1250 today (thanks Kevin Sanders). Had to fix the trunion on the new pump but the linkage is in better shape than what I had. Hope to get the 50C finished up this weekend. Then I can retire my old MTD.
 
Collectively, we (meaning all who contribute to this site) are a storehouse of information and ideas. It seems to me to be a two edged sword. If a newcomer asks a question it should be promptly answered but once someone has been around awhile they should know to use the FAQs and the SEARCH function. Thumbing through the SANDBOX itself can be a rewarding experience. I fear the lack of new blood to this hobby/compulsion is a bad thing. However, I don't think anyone who hasn't got some mechanical aptitude and a desire to preserve "Old Iron" should have one of these machines. The other side of the two edged sword is if a site like this lacks contributership it goes down the tubes (or is that an old saying and the new one is "into cyberspace"? Whatever.
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Jeff that pic on my profile was taken in 2001, the little boy in that pic is now taller than me. Well that aint saying much... the next one up 6' 1" and like a bean pole, the next one 6' 1 325 and Lastly the oldest is 5' 8" and now 20 years old. Regretfully all those Cubs are gone as are two x wives. However I still have my boys and that is what is most important to me. It would not be good for anyone to mess with them in any way. If you are a dad I am sure you know what I mean. I have to admit though through it all I still have a 108, 106 and a 104 .... then a few post 1981 units.
 
Frank... I'm not so sure that I agree with " I don't think anyone who hasn't got some mechanical aptitude and a desire to preserve "Old Iron" should have one of these machines.". I'd give a well taken care of (not restored, just kept healthy) Cub of almost any vintage to anyone who wanted to use it.. Heck, they're better built than the new stuff and we've seen lots of newcomers here who obviously didn't have the mechanical skills, but were pretty much just interested in something like what oil to use, or what belts... Once we've got 'em hooked, they'll start building their skills. All we've got to do is edjicate 'em on where to look and read the info we've got..
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Joseph,

I would suspect that the paper shims may have crumbled up when the bearing plate was loose. Depending on whether they are "gone" your endplay may be too tight, or alternately if they are all bunched up your bearing plate may not have pulled in squarely to the block. Ball bearings do not tolerate side loading, as you know, or they emit noise.
You will want to verify that the crankshaft does have endplay per spec, first off. Provided that is in spec, I would remove the electric pto clutch and see if the noise is gone. Please let us know the results of your work and good luck.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I discovered my "best used" iso mounts on the bottom side have squished down more than I like on the back ones, and also the flywheel shroud/edge of bearing plate is contacting the cradle rail on the right side for some reason. I think I should correct those first and check endplay while I have the engine out for the 3rd or 4th time.
 
My list of stuff to get done before the first of November keeps getting longer (I'm trying to eliminate a lifetime of "collecting" by both me and my late wife, including having some kind of a sale). Along with this, I'm debating on what path to take in getting the 149 in running shape - here's some things I'm considering:
- The PO was a butcher, the drive shaft was a piece of work (low speed u-joints cobbled together), the voltage reg is mounted to the gas tank, the brakes are now independent levers that come through relief holes cut in the fenders, looks like an 8N Ford setup). At the same time the sheet metal and 'glass are in decent shape and the hydraulics are all good and worked when I ran it.
- The 14 horse K321 ran, but smoked pretty bad.
- I have a non IH K341 16 horse ( Ford GT with 1 1/8 crank nose on it) that also runs, but smokes, too. (12 fin, Harry).

The rest of the project is pretty clear, I'll probably go with Dave Kemp's driveline mod, get a new wiring harness from Charlie, I've already rebuilt a SG for it and if I use the K341, can get the pulley/ clutch basket hub bored to 1.125. The real question is whether it' worth going through what it takes to convert the non-spec K-341 to mount in the the 149. I'm aware of the pan/ rod dipper issues, I think the K321 pan will fit and as far as the PTO, I'd look at converting to an electric.

The flip side is that without all the BS of converting, I could get the K32 rebuilt, build a driveshaft, put a new wiring harness in it and then after addressing the usual steering slop, trunion wear, etc. I'd be ready - and the current PTO clutch looks to have been recently rebuilt.

In either case, this will NOT be restoration - I'll be putting a Cat 0 on the back for use with a box scraper, and working it like the 129 .. Comments??
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<font size="+2">McGIVER - WELCOME BACK!!!!! I've been back awhile myself. When ya gonna start posting some of your tricks????</font>

All - what's all this stuff about "IH Cub Cadets being better built than the new stuff"??? I don't think they are really "built" better. I really think it's the design, engineering, and quality of the parts. I suspect the guys putting the new ones together (building them) are guys just like most of us, and hopefully they like to the best job they can. I know the common slang is "they just don't build'm like they used to" - but it's really the design, engineering and quality of the stuff they put in to them.

J. Smith - pretty certain you'll discover that "die cast duct" for your muffler box is your problem. Been there, done that and got the T-shirt. Hope you can find a good used one at a reasonable price - and make sure you add David Kirk's muffler crutch or it will just crack again. My very first CC unit was a 1450, and I thought I had a rod knock. This was before I had any knowledge of these units. Had it towed and hauled to the dealer who told me it didn't sound like a rod but might be. 3 weeks later it was repaired and ended up being loose bolts on the rag joint and that cost me $250. That's when I decided I better figure out how to fix these units.
 
Harry - is that duct die cast AL ?? Could be TIG'ed pretty quick if all the pieces are there, by any competent welding shop..

K (what DOES that K stand for?)McGiver - Good to see you on here again, too. I can relate to how life changes can impact your Cub time... Sounds like you've got four guys that'll be looking for Cubs themselves... Better stick around so we can help find 'em for ya
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