The 1650 died again. The coil and rectifier seem fine. Is there an easy way to check the stator? It seemed like it was charging crazy but I didn't have the meter handy to check the charging output. The ammeter was pegging to the right when she died.
Archive through May 14, 2013
- Thread starter tbdavis
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
The 1650 is running again. It was a bad coil wire. This tractor is getting on my nerves but it did finish the weeding with the tiller and is back in the barn. The ammeter finally settled down and acted as it should as well. The battery was getting right at 14 volts so it wasn't overcharging.
FYI to all. If you get stuck with a heavy implement down and need to tow the starter will lift the implement while holding back on the lift arm. It takes about 3 or 4 seconds of "starting". I wouldn't advise it but it can save a lot of time and trouble in a pinch. Oh, and you will need a good battery.
Thanks anyway???
FYI to all. If you get stuck with a heavy implement down and need to tow the starter will lift the implement while holding back on the lift arm. It takes about 3 or 4 seconds of "starting". I wouldn't advise it but it can save a lot of time and trouble in a pinch. Oh, and you will need a good battery.
Thanks anyway???
I'm new to the forum, so excuse me if I put this on the wrong thread. I've owned a 67' 126 for a few years now. I want ti keep it running cause I just love old machines. I was going to wait til winter to restore this old girl since I use it to mow my lawn. However I'm not sure if the deck is going to make it. It has some rust holes and one of the guide wheels has broke off. I am a machinist and am free to use equipment at the shop. I could glass bead it and weld sheet metal over the rust holes. I'm wondering would it be better to just replace it? Seems like it would be hard to find one, and would probably be rusty as well. I wanted some feedback from people who have done this. Thanks in advance, and I'm enjoying the board. Glad to see I'm not the only one who thinks these babies are worth saving
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Patrick F - I see zero reason why you can't patch the deck. Also, used decks are not so hard to find. I've been collecting a few for my fleet for the day when rust kills one of my decks. I have the misfortune to have a yard that is very wet - I guess the water table is close to the surface. When grass is dry and brown for others, mine is nice and green. Wet mowing is compounded by getting to the house late in the evening and dew is on the grass or a thunder storm has passed through. I try to mow when it's dry, but that ain't always possible in my neck of the woods. So I paint the underside of my decks with slip plate, try to mow when it's dry - but in the end, have spare decks for the day when the mowing deck is rusted beyond repair.
BTW - I've got a 126 I'm trying to get going and welcome to the forum...
BTW - I've got a 126 I'm trying to get going and welcome to the forum...
Welcome Pat. I agree with Bill, there's no reason you can't patch the deck, as long as the surrounding metal is still thick enough. Not sure what the supply of cub cadet are down your way as far as another deck, but up here in wash. state they seem somewhat harder to come by than other areas of the country
Patrick - You have found the best place for your Yellor and White Tractor. Ih Made a Few number change but they boil down to this. Narrow frame nf to 14 hp: wide frame to 16 hp. Many parts fit both along the way. And I`am glad so many replacement parts I can find ( above). And best we all look at these some times https://www.ihcubcadet.com/Misc/Rules.html. I have broken a few. So I think a great site is for those with a passion ! please pass on what you have learned to HELP others.
First of all that old rust steel deck is so much better steel than most can get today.Plate away and if you don`t alter it`s function . I think the deck resource is worth saving .
First of all that old rust steel deck is so much better steel than most can get today.Plate away and if you don`t alter it`s function . I think the deck resource is worth saving .
I didn't get much time in the garage tonite but I did manage to get the aluminum duct off the 1650 only to find that it is not my noise. I stuck the muffler back on, fired it up, still makes the noise. I didn't get a chance to address the iso mounts or the flywheel shroud contacting the cradle but those are next on the list. Still really hoping the 13 fin 16hp kohler isn't in need of a rebuild. Oh, and since I've gotten rather used to removing the heavy ol k341, when I pull it to ease the installation of iso mounts I will be also checking the end play. Should the pto clutch be removed when checking end play?
Gerry Ide
My .02 is all those little changes to Make something work ,don`t always last and will cost more $$ Than we plan. Ts hat.(rebuild)I would only make one change to that plan.CV Drive shaft.I think they distributed the stroke so the drive pin will last and the tractor can work harder. having a tractor here with a CV joint front and rear on the drive shaft . So smooth and good for many HP ranges.
I think it is wise if you think your Cub might work as hard as a loader tractor does just moving weight ( it self ). I run 645 lbs Wheel weight and me lol. I have needed a few rag joints. Happy that I have something so simple and well built for it`s day.;
My .02 is all those little changes to Make something work ,don`t always last and will cost more $$ Than we plan. Ts hat.(rebuild)I would only make one change to that plan.CV Drive shaft.I think they distributed the stroke so the drive pin will last and the tractor can work harder. having a tractor here with a CV joint front and rear on the drive shaft . So smooth and good for many HP ranges.
I think it is wise if you think your Cub might work as hard as a loader tractor does just moving weight ( it self ). I run 645 lbs Wheel weight and me lol. I have needed a few rag joints. Happy that I have something so simple and well built for it`s day.;
