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Archive through May 14, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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RChristensen, Rbedell

I guess what I'm asking is the shaft with the threads able to be separated from the actual bearing and reused. Or do you buy the bearing with the shaft already together. Because I'm seeing in the archives the ST 745 bearing is about $60.00 but C&G has an spindle with bearing assembly for 127.00
 
Today my wife was mowing with the IH CC 1650 using the PTO dash switch when necessary. When she disengaged the PTO to move over the driveway it would not engage. Oh boy, all I could think of was the two previous times this happened, 15 years ago and 6 years ago. At that time I had to replace the costly PTO clutch. The local CC dealer tells me the cost is now up to $278. He told me to first check to see that there is power at the clutch. I removed the mower deck, hood and grille assembly and muffler shroud and then unplugged the line connection near the PTO clutch , put my 12 volt tester there and turned on the dash switch. There is power there. I plugged the line back togther again and guess what. The PTO clutch works again. Now my question to all you CC experts, including the knowledgeable Mr. Myron Bounds: I am not certain this thing is okay. Is it because the mower is off and there is no work for the PTO? Can I trust this thing to not break when my lawn is in need a mowing? Is there something that needs lubrication at the PTO clutch? HELP if you can.
 
Paul B:

The ST-745 Bearing is NLA from Cub Cadet. There is a new Spindle Kit that is a total different design that replaces the orginal spindle assembly. The ST-745 Bearing can still be obtained from some independent bearing retailers and thus you can rebuild the original assembly.

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The top pic's, is the actual item #4 in the parts list. This bearing is sandwiched between items #5 & #7. Three bolts hold this assembly to the deck. Once you unbolt the spindle assembly, then the upper and lower bearing housing come apart to reveal the ST-745. C & G have a REAL GOOD price on this bearing. I paid a lot more from a local source here.

Hope this explains this issue and that it helps,

(Message edited by rbedell on May 17, 2005)
 
Paul and Roland,
What about the IH-ST746 it may still be available.
I have a newer style and an older style deck. The newer style spindle is the IH-ST746. The spindle bearing shaft is item 43. The bearing is sandwiched between 42 and 44. The older style is more like a wheel bearing assembly. There are many more parts in the older style. These parts are located in the upper right corner of the drawing. The bearing holder is item 19, a cast iron piece. The shaft is item 18. The bearing races and timken bearings, and seals are items 30, 28, 32, 31, 33, and 29.
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Gene Preston
Sounds to me like your brake flange adjustment is out of tolerance. Your brake flange holds the driven disc near the driving hub so when the coil is energized the field pulls the driven disc back against the driving hub and the pulley rotates with the engine.

You adjust the 4 bolts on the brake flange until you have .010 inch gap between the disc and the hub at the 4 openings in the brake flange.

28172.jpg


When the air gap gets too wide the field isn't strong enough to pull the driven disc back and lock it in. If you listen close to one that is not set correctly you will hear a click when it tries to engage. One set correctly will give you a good hard CLACK when it energizes.
 
Paul Brown
I think Roland explained it, I think the terminology is what is bothering you. The st-745 (item #4 in the drawing) is called a spindel bearing but is really a shaft threaded on both ends with two bearings inside a housing which can not be rebuilt, that is what C & G sells for $64.00, I belive the kit would probably include that plus the upper and lower cups, which you should not need unless yours are damaged.
 
Terry B:

Here are two bearings. The ST-745 is the shorter one. It is about 5-3/8" in length, while the longer one is 11/16" greater. I have no experience with the ST-746 and wonder if the longer one is it. The original bearings were made by BCA.
28177.jpg


Maybe someone could expand on the longer bearing. These bearings are identical except for output shaft length.
 
Gene P -

In addition to what Richard C stated, it could also be a PTO coil that is affected by the heat (that is, an internal break in the windings). I had one, and it would work fine once I let things cool off. The way to temporarily fix it was to adjust the air gap closer. The permanent fix was to replace the coil.
 
Paul B,
Not to make this anymore confusing, but it looks like this is what a 50C deck looks like. If this is a 50C, then this deck is much newer than anything I have had experience with.
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Terry Bush:

I have a 50C deck. My deck has the ST-745 spindle bearings in it. About 3 yrs ago, I replaced the center spindle with this new Spindle Kit, which looks like item #7 in your parts list. Last I checked, this new Spindle Kit was about $127.00.
So, if your deck uses the ST-745 and C & G has this bearing for about $65.00, it is less expensive to rebuild.

Just my experience,
 
Silly question follows...
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What's the "correct" adjustment for a spring assist? I set it back to where it was when I got it (prior to blasting and painting it) with about 1 1/2" of screw out of the spring.

Got it installed on the 1200 today. Interesting feeling having to push a little to get the hitch down, but it sure comes up nice.
 
Gene, I agree with those guys on the pto. I think I need to decrease my gap on mine a little. Sometimes when I go to engage it, I have to increase the rpm's on the engine which I believe will increase the voltage just enough to engage it.
 
Hi everybody! I'm a little new to this and I need some help and advice. Can anyone get me an exploded view for the clutch on a basic 1972 model? and i was looking into getting an original model for around $525 from a dealer, all original and under warranty. what do you guys think? and what would you say is the best model for cutting grass?
 
Did you guys see the 100 that was on epay with the ending bid price of $3175.+
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Didn't meet reserve either
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I am new to this site. I have a 105 and a 109. I am not sure what a narrow frame is compared to a wide frame. I am assuming that a narrow frame(105)is a frame that is not as high as a wide frame(109). Am I right? I am assuming that the Tiller that came with the 105 will fit on the 109, however I may have to buy some different linkage for lifting. Do I need anything else? Thanks in advance for your dvice and help.
 
To The Shade Tree Mechanic & Aqitch: Thanks you guys. Since I last posted on the subject of my 1650 electric PTO clutch, I found in my log book where when the first 2 clutches went bad, (1983 and 1999) they were blowing fuses. That has not happened this time. So I believe the problem is as you suggested; improper gap setting. I will work on that in the AM and report back tomorrow evening. Thanks for your feedback.
 
In the worst case senario, if I need to replace the electric PTO clutch on my 1650, does anyone know of a source for purchasing a unit cheaper that that offered by my local CC dealer at $278?
 
Kevin D and Paul P,

According to my cc dealer the lower pulley for the 7/16 width belt is no longer available.
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Question for X82 series experts. Did the 12182 have a single cylinder Kohler with the 5/8 wide belt on on the electric clutch? Maybe we could convert the older ones to that and put 5/8 pulleys on mower decks, tillers and snowthrowers.
 
Gene P -

Um, a used one from a sponsor?

Yeah, you could be buying someone else's problems, but it's the price you pay when you buy used (and cheep)...

Buying used you can also get away with just buying the coil...
 

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