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Archive through May 12, 2010
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Since some of the new members may be unfamiliar with rebuilding a carburetor, I thought I'd document the process as I went through one today.
First, disconnect the battery to eliminate any chance of creating sparks. Remove the choke and throttle linkage. Close the fuel shutoff valve. Remove the fuel line from the carb. Hold a small can (an empty tuna can is the perfect size) under the carb to catch any gas that comes out. Loosen and remove the two bolts holding the carb to the engine. Keep the can under it while you carry it to the workbench. Next, remove the bolt holding the bowl onto the carb. Gas will probably come out when the bowl seal is broken, so hold it over the can while doing this. It may be necessary to tap on the bowl with a rubber mallet after removing the bolt. After removing the bowl, slide out the float pivot pin and remove the float and needle. Pull out the old gaskets and remove the old seat with a 3/8" nut driver. If the tractor was running before removal of the carburetor, take note of the position of the mixture screws. I usually screw them in until they gently bottom, counting the turns. I write the numbers on the cardboard I use to keep the workbench clean. After doing these things, you'll have something like this:
For the next step, you'll need a 1-gallon can of carb cleaner in which to soak the carb. A spray can of the fast-evaporating carb cleaner is also handy.
Clean off all of the large chunks of dirt and grime, and then put all of the parts in the basket except for the float, as it's difficult to completely submerge it. Let them soak for about half an hour. Clean the float with the spray can of cleaner. If it looks questionable or you can hear gas sloshing around in it, replace it. Lately I've been preemptively replacing floats because I don't like taking these things apart more times than I have to.
After 30 minutes or so in the carb cleaner and some scrubbing with an old toothbrush and rinsing, the parts should look something like this:
The can of carb cleaner works wonders. Both the throttle and choke were stuck on this carb, and after soaking, both were free. I didn't bother leaving it in there until all the paint fell off, as (1) this is going on a work tractor, not a resto and (2) it's eating the carb while it's in the solution, so I only leave stuff in there as long as is necessary. Note that I have removed the butterfly valve and throttle shaft because this carb needed a bushing installed to take up excess play in the throttle shaft. If the butterfly valve is to be removed, extreme care and patience are necessary not to twist off the brass screws. The ends are peened so they don't vibrate out and get sucked into the engine, which makes them difficult to remove. Loosen them 1/4 turn at a time, and loosen/tighten them several times, 1/4 turn at a time, until they have been removed. After ensuring that everything is clean and all passages are open, install the throttle shaft bushing if necessary by using a 1/4" bolt as a guide, as shown. Install the bushing flush with the carb body.
Continued in Part 2....
First, disconnect the battery to eliminate any chance of creating sparks. Remove the choke and throttle linkage. Close the fuel shutoff valve. Remove the fuel line from the carb. Hold a small can (an empty tuna can is the perfect size) under the carb to catch any gas that comes out. Loosen and remove the two bolts holding the carb to the engine. Keep the can under it while you carry it to the workbench. Next, remove the bolt holding the bowl onto the carb. Gas will probably come out when the bowl seal is broken, so hold it over the can while doing this. It may be necessary to tap on the bowl with a rubber mallet after removing the bolt. After removing the bowl, slide out the float pivot pin and remove the float and needle. Pull out the old gaskets and remove the old seat with a 3/8" nut driver. If the tractor was running before removal of the carburetor, take note of the position of the mixture screws. I usually screw them in until they gently bottom, counting the turns. I write the numbers on the cardboard I use to keep the workbench clean. After doing these things, you'll have something like this:
For the next step, you'll need a 1-gallon can of carb cleaner in which to soak the carb. A spray can of the fast-evaporating carb cleaner is also handy.
Clean off all of the large chunks of dirt and grime, and then put all of the parts in the basket except for the float, as it's difficult to completely submerge it. Let them soak for about half an hour. Clean the float with the spray can of cleaner. If it looks questionable or you can hear gas sloshing around in it, replace it. Lately I've been preemptively replacing floats because I don't like taking these things apart more times than I have to.
After 30 minutes or so in the carb cleaner and some scrubbing with an old toothbrush and rinsing, the parts should look something like this:
The can of carb cleaner works wonders. Both the throttle and choke were stuck on this carb, and after soaking, both were free. I didn't bother leaving it in there until all the paint fell off, as (1) this is going on a work tractor, not a resto and (2) it's eating the carb while it's in the solution, so I only leave stuff in there as long as is necessary. Note that I have removed the butterfly valve and throttle shaft because this carb needed a bushing installed to take up excess play in the throttle shaft. If the butterfly valve is to be removed, extreme care and patience are necessary not to twist off the brass screws. The ends are peened so they don't vibrate out and get sucked into the engine, which makes them difficult to remove. Loosen them 1/4 turn at a time, and loosen/tighten them several times, 1/4 turn at a time, until they have been removed. After ensuring that everything is clean and all passages are open, install the throttle shaft bushing if necessary by using a 1/4" bolt as a guide, as shown. Install the bushing flush with the carb body.
Continued in Part 2....
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Part 2
Next, reinstall the throttle shaft and butterfly valve. DO NOT attempt to re-use the brass screws you removed, as they'll just twist off when you try to reinstall them. Don't ask how I know this. Pick up some new screws (I think they're #3-48) and lockwashers, as well as some blue lock-tite. Install the screws with lockwashers and lock-tite.
The rest of the carb is assembled next. Open up your carb kit (and new float, if that was necessary) and make sure you have all the parts. The small red gasket goes on the bowl bolt, and the black [Kohler kit] or white [some aftermarket kits] one goes on the seat.
Make sure the main jet needle is clear. There are several sets of holes in it; after soaking in the carb cleaner, it should be clear, but to check, stick the pointy end in your mouth and blow. Air should be coming out of the two upper sets of holes. If not, it's not clean enough. If it's clear, reinstall the main and idle needles. I usually set the main to 2 1/4 turns and idle to 1 3/4 as a starting point. Install the new seat and float, and check the float level. The manual has a measurement for this, but I set them by eye. The float should be parallel to the carb body or down slightly, as shown in this picture:
After the float level has been set, remove the float again, and then put in the gasket that looks like a square O-ring. This is a three-ring circus if you are using an aftermarket gasket set, as it has to be stretched to fit and likes to fall out. After you get it in, make sure it isn't twisted.
Put the baffle gasket over the top of the other gasket:
Reinstall the float. Some aftermarket kits come with this POS float pivot pin that is knurled on one end. If yours has this, use the old pin that was in the carb. Put on the bowl, being careful not to disturb the two gaskets. The carb is then ready to reinstall on the tractor.
Next, reinstall the throttle shaft and butterfly valve. DO NOT attempt to re-use the brass screws you removed, as they'll just twist off when you try to reinstall them. Don't ask how I know this. Pick up some new screws (I think they're #3-48) and lockwashers, as well as some blue lock-tite. Install the screws with lockwashers and lock-tite.
The rest of the carb is assembled next. Open up your carb kit (and new float, if that was necessary) and make sure you have all the parts. The small red gasket goes on the bowl bolt, and the black [Kohler kit] or white [some aftermarket kits] one goes on the seat.
Make sure the main jet needle is clear. There are several sets of holes in it; after soaking in the carb cleaner, it should be clear, but to check, stick the pointy end in your mouth and blow. Air should be coming out of the two upper sets of holes. If not, it's not clean enough. If it's clear, reinstall the main and idle needles. I usually set the main to 2 1/4 turns and idle to 1 3/4 as a starting point. Install the new seat and float, and check the float level. The manual has a measurement for this, but I set them by eye. The float should be parallel to the carb body or down slightly, as shown in this picture:
After the float level has been set, remove the float again, and then put in the gasket that looks like a square O-ring. This is a three-ring circus if you are using an aftermarket gasket set, as it has to be stretched to fit and likes to fall out. After you get it in, make sure it isn't twisted.
Put the baffle gasket over the top of the other gasket:
Reinstall the float. Some aftermarket kits come with this POS float pivot pin that is knurled on one end. If yours has this, use the old pin that was in the carb. Put on the bowl, being careful not to disturb the two gaskets. The carb is then ready to reinstall on the tractor.
mgwin
Well-known member
Finally finished my "O" touchups. Painted the lights yellow like they ought to be and put the "correct" labels on the hood after a few coats of paint. Drat, I can't find my pics!
mgwin
Well-known member
OK, found the pics. I hadn't downloaded them yet.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Mule drive, no; deck, yes.
i'm starting to get really frustrated 128 doesn't run needs engine rebuild, amongst other things, may just sell for parts tired of fooling with it and not having money to fix or use it when i need it and 127 has no undercarriage for mower deck so, there goes that idea.
Wayne S.,
I hope you were able to get all of the 'cast-iron crumbs' out of the crankcase when you were busting out those gears!
You may want to place a dime-sized magnet right on the end of the oil plug. It will pull & hold some iron crumbs to the backside of the plug. If you're wondering if your magnet is strong enough, before you replace the oil plug back into the pan hole, place your magnet on the square end and see if you can get small iron washers, screws, etc. to stick to the threaded end.
Matt G.,
Nice job with the pictures and verbal description of the carb rebuild.
Are you planning to add it as a link at your Cub site?
I was just about to go through my carb, so that was perfect timing for me - Thanks a bunch!
Ryan Wilke
I hope you were able to get all of the 'cast-iron crumbs' out of the crankcase when you were busting out those gears!
Matt G.,
Nice job with the pictures and verbal description of the carb rebuild.
I was just about to go through my carb, so that was perfect timing for me - Thanks a bunch!
Ryan Wilke
Being one of the "new guys" here, I'm pretty excited about starting to use my 124. I got this one (my first Cub) and also a 126 in a trade I made with a nice old guy I know up in New Hampshire. Did a little plowing today and took a few pictures of her.
I picked up a tiller I've got to get on her this weekend. Also located a nice hydraulic lift to put on her when time permits... oh-oh, I think I'm getting way to excited about all this...
Kenny
I picked up a tiller I've got to get on her this weekend. Also located a nice hydraulic lift to put on her when time permits... oh-oh, I think I'm getting way to excited about all this...
Kenny
Ken Gibson; Nice find on the 124. I have a 124 with creeper, spring assist, and tiller. The tiller was so hard to lift i moved it to my 102 that has creeper and hydraulic lift on it. I can now put my turning plow on the 124.
lfeuerbacher
Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2009
- Messages
- 13
- displayname
- larin feuerbacher
Ok i have got an old Ariens tiller and I am trying to find a manul for it. can some one direct me where i am to go? i have searched all over google and can't find a thing. thanks
2nd how do I adjust the linkage on my 1450. I have to reach down bye hand near the transmission to go in reverse. It goes forward with no problem.
2nd how do I adjust the linkage on my 1450. I have to reach down bye hand near the transmission to go in reverse. It goes forward with no problem.
larin feuerbacher
To adjust the hydro read this and that will solve you problems.The hydro is out of adjustment.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
To adjust the hydro read this and that will solve you problems.The hydro is out of adjustment.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
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