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Archive through May 12, 2009
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
dylschmidt
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2007
- Messages
- 104
- displayname
- Darryl Schmidt
Charles.
Your math is right on.... and at my age I add another 20 minutes for every birthday over number 40. (and thats a few).
Your math is right on.... and at my age I add another 20 minutes for every birthday over number 40. (and thats a few).
Just finished up saving a 42" deck from the scrap yard. Front ear on the nose was busted off. Tig welded the cast nose using a high nickel filler. Heated up to about 400 degrees, fitted the broken mount and welded her up front and back. Buried it in sand to cool extra slow and it came out excellent. Save your broken castings.....they are salvageable.
Randy
Randy
Randy, nice save!
Thanks guys. I couldn't tell you the numbers on the rod. It's some tig filler that I picked up years ago on Ebay for fixing castings, no box or markings on it. Has a really high nickel content and flows out beautifully. Straight argon with a preheat of the casting and a post heating before putting into the sand.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
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- Home of the Plow Special
Brad-
Did you remove the crank from that engine when you took out the balance gears?
On the 14hp I did, there was NO WAY those gears were coming out without either busting the upper gear apart, or removing the crank..
Did you remove the crank from that engine when you took out the balance gears?
On the 14hp I did, there was NO WAY those gears were coming out without either busting the upper gear apart, or removing the crank..
I just took them out of a 12 hp, the con rod was already out (in pieces) but I don't think that helped anything.
I hammered the balance gear pins into the crankcase from the outside.(hammer check, hammer check again), Front pulley was removed.
Make sure the crankshaft is turned for clearance and watch out for the oil dipper on the connecting rod !!!!
The top gear is still a pain to fish out, but it will come. (remove the pin)
Somewhere in the archives is a picture of a block fitted with 1/2 in. frost plugs in the shaft holes. I will probably tap the holes and use a pipe plugs.
I hammered the balance gear pins into the crankcase from the outside.(hammer check, hammer check again), Front pulley was removed.
Make sure the crankshaft is turned for clearance and watch out for the oil dipper on the connecting rod !!!!
The top gear is still a pain to fish out, but it will come. (remove the pin)
Somewhere in the archives is a picture of a block fitted with 1/2 in. frost plugs in the shaft holes. I will probably tap the holes and use a pipe plugs.
Kraig; I think it is a drain for changing the oil in the creeper. But i havent inspected it yet.The creeper and transmision seems to work good so i will inspect later. I have never owned a tractor with a creeper before but am looking forward to this one. I am a hydrostatic person but if this works out the tiller will go on it. I plowed my garden with the 1250 today and that was a plesant experience. The friend that gave me the 102 said cub cadets is a therapy thing for me. I agree.
Luther
Luther
David NAPA does have an equivalant to Hytran Plus. It comes in 1gal and 5gal containers. Whether is does as well of job or not I can't say. Although I just got done using it for the 1st time. My closest dealer is about 40 minutes away.
Luther Hinds
The creeper has a drain plug on the bottom of the case, and a "fill to" hole/plug on the left side. It has been my experience that you don't have to change the oil in a creeper, just add more. It is not uncommon for them expel all/most of the oil out the breather on the top of the case.
The creeper has a drain plug on the bottom of the case, and a "fill to" hole/plug on the left side. It has been my experience that you don't have to change the oil in a creeper, just add more. It is not uncommon for them expel all/most of the oil out the breather on the top of the case.
Man oh man how things change. I went ahead and put new front tires on the 129 after a short drive that ended when the positive battery cable found a good ground and cooked my used voltage regulator. But I liked the drive just not the rip in the tire. I rebuilt the carb on it thinking at least this will be right and if I junk it I'll still have a good carb. Got that installed. Then to get rid of those God awful automotive battery cables I put a good used wiring harness in it. So today is a nice day, the tractor is calling me so I go get a voltage regulator, air filter, hytran, and a hydro filter because in my mind all I have to do is put on the vr,put in the battery and cruise. Then I'll change the filter and top her off. NOT. The wiring harness took a bayonet connector. I get 4 connectors for it and put them in my pocket so that I won't lose them. After I got home I discovered two of them jumped out of my pocket when I took my keys out to start the truck. I spend the next hour running around looking for these connectors. No luck. I finally dug around in my stuff and found some connectors that had a female spade end and it branched into two male spade connectors. I modified 4 to get two good ones and get those on. Great. I put in the battery with it's hold down. I turn the key.. nothing. The ignition switch was hinkey. I then "hot wired" it. It started only after getting a shot of either. And it smoked even worse than I remembered. So now I have a 301 to rebuild. I can't wait to get it running like silk so I can find all the freaking problems that I just know are waiting in the hydrostatic end after it rolls farther that a few feet. Here's my "first jug". What a day. Oh I'm going to wait on the NF hydro-lift till I get this motor rebuilt.
bborchers
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2009
- Messages
- 94
- displayname
- Brad Borchers
Well Aaytay, Never took out the crank. I was able to move it just enough to have it slide off the shaft. Actually surprised when it did. Atferwards, spun the crank by hand and talk about smooth. No catches of any kind, now I can't wait until it back in and running, but that is another tale,LOL.
Kendall,
Managed to get things going again. TSC had the tire and the valve stems, but they were out of the wheel bearings. I brought 2 of them for a little less than $30 from the local dealer. The front tire was an exact replacement, but it was a real bear to get the bead seated, as the beads were scrunched together and were a bit distorted. I also found my spare wheel bearing, still in the plastic bag after I got home.
After I got it all back together, I spread the trailer's cargo over the garden, and then mowed the lawn. All in all it was a busy day for sure.
Managed to get things going again. TSC had the tire and the valve stems, but they were out of the wheel bearings. I brought 2 of them for a little less than $30 from the local dealer. The front tire was an exact replacement, but it was a real bear to get the bead seated, as the beads were scrunched together and were a bit distorted. I also found my spare wheel bearing, still in the plastic bag after I got home.
After I got it all back together, I spread the trailer's cargo over the garden, and then mowed the lawn. All in all it was a busy day for sure.
