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Archive through May 05, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rwilke

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Messages
738
displayname
Ryan D Wilke
Dennis F.,
Thanks for the Hydro leak repair summary.
I've copied it and will go look for the other archived/FAQ posts you mentioned.
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I'll also be watching for Gerry Ide's work progress.

Say, on another topic; I was surprised to read your suggest to Wayne S that he leave off his front engine tin shrouding.
Won't leaving the shrouding off have a detrimental effect to the proper air cooling of the engine?
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Ryan Wilke
 
Would I be wrong in ASSUming this isn't the right filter for a gravity fed system?
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Frank, I like the perspective in that photo, makes the Cub Cadet and Jeep look like toys.
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

I use these filters on everything!
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Frank C.
It doesn't make a dif what the filter looks like as long as it's made for gravity flow and you have the arrow pointing in the right direction, towards the carb.
Here's the best one I've found so far.
It's made for Kohlers.
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Frank C.,
I use one like that to feed my 129 with a 12HP Kohler without any problems.
I change it every year, whether it needs it or not.

I suspect for Kohler engines running higher than stock rpm levels (like pullers), you might not get sufficient fuel flow.
But for a general purpose Cub/Kohler engine, I'd say it should serve you fine.

Does your Cub have a screened valve inlet located inside the fuel tank?
If so, the screen can varnish up and/or plug off and not allow proper flow out the valve.

Ryan Wilke
 
Dennis-

Thanks for the input. I just got back from Sanford, NC, about an hour south of where I live. I took the 109 down there to my nephews shop to do the valve work and ended up completing the job. He didn't have the proper spring remover after all so we borrowed one. That suggestion about the heat shield makes sense but it's back on now and the garden needs to be next. As far as the exhaust leak Todd (nephew) is an exhaust man and had some high heat silicone type stuff and told me to just spread a little around where the leak is so I did. Time will tell with that solution. The engine fired right up and the smoking went back to its original amount which is just a little.

Aren't we suppose to retorque the head bolts after a few minutes of operation? I think I read that recently somewhere. I plan to do it anyway. I left a little of the baked on grease but it was minimal. Getting the rats nest out will help things run a little cooler I'm sure. I thought I got it all out when I first got the tractor home and discovered it.

Thanks again for the help....Wayne
 
I use an in-line filter on my siphon bulb/hose rig since I siphon out of the trucks fer my boat and Cubs.
 
Wow! I ride downtown with Jeanne to pick up a 12pak of cool tools and try to catch a guy about buying a couple more tractors (more info, later) and get all kinds of responses! I sold a 129 to a friend maybe 4 summers ago and last winter was the first winter that I finagled him into parking it in his garage. I have a hard time doing this
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even when I know it's for his (and ultimately my) own good. But I digress. I've spent the last 3 days trying to play catch-up from our trip to Zagray Farms and still have a couple days to go.
Kraig: The Cub (Penny) and Jeep (Red Jeep) ARE toys - working toys. You should see the "big boys' sandpit" at Zagray Farms! Think Euclid.
Charlie: Glad to see you're feeling well enough to find time to post.
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I've found that a sediment bowl isn't really compatible to the fuel system on a 149. (and Don T. and I talk about you behind your back -- that might explain the burning sensation in your ears).
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Now maybe I can talk Jeanne into working while I take pics.
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RYAN - You leave the little tin shield on that's right over the head itself. The big heavy piece that bolts onto the head studs and extends further out and the muffler bolts to can be left off. Just a short bracket bent up & bolted to the S?G arm should hold the muffler.

You want the heat & cooling air to flow as far away as fast as it can. The cooling system on the old K-series is taxed pretty hard on warm days the way it is. When pulling hard the head temp & internal temps go thru the roof. I read an article in Hot Rod magazine years & years ago, (when cars had carburators & distributors with points & condensors in them) that exhaust valves in cars run red to orange hot at highways speeds. I've seen a LOT of engine exh. manifolds those colors so I'm sure the exh valves are hotter still.

The Q/L & red tractors with side panels are supposed to cool better with the panels ON, having run my 982 ONCE mowing without the panels on I'm guessing it because of the HUGE amount of debris getting sucked back around the engine by the cooling fan. The Onan in the 982 blows hard enough thru the grill to blow dust & grass around ahead of the tractor. K-series won't do that.
 
Where do you buy slip plate paint or what do you use to paint the bottom of a mower deck???
Thanks
 
KentuckyKen,
Euclid?
Euclid:Greek mathematician:
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How does that relate to a Cub Cadet?
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Paul W Andrews
I have slip Plate here That Charlie sold me. I use it on my snow blade. I use a coat of fluid film on my deck on the grass cutter and Clean It every fall./ Deck is in not bad shape for 20 yrs old.

Ken
do you pop wheeles with that tractor ? I see no head lights and thought that might be why????


Frank C
I`am a good listener as you know and if Charlies ears ring it ain`t from me. He knows a spade is a spade,.

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Scott T.,
Does the Brinly hitch adapter have the same measurements as the one you posted? I am mostly interested in the total length, and the length of the center brace where the straps attach.
 
Wait a minute! Euclid...mathematician...pretty smart dude..."I don't care what Digger said, KENtuckyKEN is a genius!" Is there a connection? You two do kinda favor. What do you think, Digger?
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How innocently we can get off track. The Euclid might have to go to the SANDBOX, but Jeanne working HER 125 can come here:
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