-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through May 02, 2011
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
MICK M. - re rebuilt engine start-up. The carb adjustments listed here and other places are a guideline, further adjustment will be necessary once the engine is running and warmed up.
On the camshaft, yes, the pushrod for the points does make a groove on that lobe of the cam with extended usage. Replacing the cam was good. Yes, the cams from the K241 (10hp) thru K341 (16hp) are all the same lift & duration. There are some very old K241 cams that may not have the ACR mechanism on the exh lobe, and also may not have the lobe to run the mechanical fuel pump. But there aern't many of those left I'm sure.
The thing with the small ball bearings is a "Valve Rotator". Yes, they're heavier and more complex than a straight valve spring retainer but I sure hope you got the one working rotator on the exhaust valve. The retainer really shouldn't effect the tappet clearance since that is determined by the valve head-to-seat position and the valve stem length, but it's not a bad idea to check the clearance anyhow. The valve rotator does effect the compressed length of the springs so they do effect valve spring pressure both with the valves closed and open, but on a slow reving engine like a Kohler the pressure doesn't need to be very high anyhow.
Just make sure you timed the cam to the correct timing marks, don't use the marks for the balance gears...BT-DT. Also check the ignition timing as MATT G explains in the FAQ,s using a timing light. It may take a while for the engine to break-in and run properly.
On the camshaft, yes, the pushrod for the points does make a groove on that lobe of the cam with extended usage. Replacing the cam was good. Yes, the cams from the K241 (10hp) thru K341 (16hp) are all the same lift & duration. There are some very old K241 cams that may not have the ACR mechanism on the exh lobe, and also may not have the lobe to run the mechanical fuel pump. But there aern't many of those left I'm sure.
The thing with the small ball bearings is a "Valve Rotator". Yes, they're heavier and more complex than a straight valve spring retainer but I sure hope you got the one working rotator on the exhaust valve. The retainer really shouldn't effect the tappet clearance since that is determined by the valve head-to-seat position and the valve stem length, but it's not a bad idea to check the clearance anyhow. The valve rotator does effect the compressed length of the springs so they do effect valve spring pressure both with the valves closed and open, but on a slow reving engine like a Kohler the pressure doesn't need to be very high anyhow.
Just make sure you timed the cam to the correct timing marks, don't use the marks for the balance gears...BT-DT. Also check the ignition timing as MATT G explains in the FAQ,s using a timing light. It may take a while for the engine to break-in and run properly.
Mick, the factory settings are a place to start. Set the carb to the factory settings and try to start the tractor, set the idle up high enough, it should at least try to run under these conditions. then adjust the idle mixture to get the best idle. Now slow the idle speed down. You may have to repeat this a couple times to find the best idle. Once you get the best idle now you can adjust the load valve, grab the throttle and go wide open, if theres black smoke lean it out (turn the screw in), if no smoke but stumbles, turn the screw out, repeat till it's right. It's hard to describe but a freshly rebuilt engine set up right should snap to 3600 RPM. Use the slot on the adjustment screws to keep track of how far you turn the screws, keep it to half turn increments. On a side note if you set the timming to factory specs you should go back and static time the engine.
I type way to slow
I type way to slow
Don, it's not a Cub Cadet but it does have a loader. Here's some detail photos of the hydraulic lines on the Ark-600 loader that's on my AC-620. Photos were taken way back in 2000.
I left a little bit of my #1 125 in the photo above.
I left a little bit of my #1 125 in the photo above.
Don, here's a few more. Theses were taken after I replaced and reinforced the cross brace on the loader. The old brace had cracked along the lift arms. I cut and made the new parts and Art welded it all together for me. The hydraulic lines show up a little better on the fresh paint.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Thanks , I have saved your pictures and printed them for him as a guide to install new hard lines on my loader.He came to me looking for parts and help with his 1650 he is restoring and well my loader lines were talked about. seems he wants to redo my lines now and wants me to oversee his restore of his 1650.I think his big problem is he had a temp worker take it apart last summer and now he is lost as to how this tractor will go back together.Charlie will like the parts order and I will have neat looking hard lines and he will have a great looking 1650 when this is all done.Thanks for your help providing the pictures for him to use as a guide to replace the mess I now have.Thanks again Don T
Thanks , I have saved your pictures and printed them for him as a guide to install new hard lines on my loader.He came to me looking for parts and help with his 1650 he is restoring and well my loader lines were talked about. seems he wants to redo my lines now and wants me to oversee his restore of his 1650.I think his big problem is he had a temp worker take it apart last summer and now he is lost as to how this tractor will go back together.Charlie will like the parts order and I will have neat looking hard lines and he will have a great looking 1650 when this is all done.Thanks for your help providing the pictures for him to use as a guide to replace the mess I now have.Thanks again Don T
Don, I'll try to remember to take a detail photo of the clamp setup that holds the lines in place. Basically it's a bolt welded to the loader frame then a U shaped plate is placed over the bolt then a flat plat is held on over that with a ny-lock nut. In case I forget to take a photo, here's a quick side view sketch of what it looks like. And, yes, I know I didn't get the U plate or top plate centered in the sketch. Ya get what ya pay for.
Kraig
Thats is a great idea to hold all the lines in place and I will use that also. I bought a tube bender awile back and now would be a good time to use it.I did try it out installing my break controller on my truck and It did work slick.
Thats is a great idea to hold all the lines in place and I will use that also. I bought a tube bender awile back and now would be a good time to use it.I did try it out installing my break controller on my truck and It did work slick.
Dave, Dennis, Thanks for the imput ,this is furstration to the max,This is my 4th rebuilb and I've not had one give me fits like this one,so through the process of elimination , the manual and lots of time hopefully I'll straghten this out, Thanks again. I''ll let you all know how it turns out!!
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Don T That is going to be one sweet loader and you could not have picked a better series of cubs for the job.
Only a bit of seat time today, took the 42" blade off the 109 and put mule drive and 44" deck on it. I still need to put the belt on and then its ready for mowing.
Only a bit of seat time today, took the 42" blade off the 109 and put mule drive and 44" deck on it. I still need to put the belt on and then its ready for mowing.
