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Archive through May 02, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kentuck:
Neither of Randy's links look like the parts illustration you posted (Z bend above the pin)....
 
Yea I see that now ... Charlie hasn't got the bent ones either , I was just looking.

My 50C have what the drawing shows
 
the parts break down for my 1250 just shows straight ones.
 
Randy - Is your deck a
50
50A
50C
50 I have no idea

Parts look up quit on me. I guess the rain has washed out something ... Not over 1/2" rain here yet !
 
hey kentuck:

it is a 50 I have no idea. its no big deal i got a hold of the guy i bought it from and the long link is wrong. he put that on there before he sold it to me. dont know what it is supposed to be for. but you guys did me right and i will get a new one tomorrow. we just got 1.1 inches last night, lightning hit so hard it like to blew me out of bed! thought for sure it hit right next to my window. thanks buddy
 
Mystery Solved
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Jeff, can't find my other pics, but I have some from the other day of my tines. I'm thinking maybe that is my problem. I've run worn out tines on a troy-bilt before and didn't have this much trouble going deep. I have my tiller on the bottom holes, same adjustments you do...slack in the chain, just won't dig past 4 inches or so. Same dirt I've been tilling for years. Even plowed it again this year. Anyway, here are three pics of my tines, see what you pros think. Thanks, Nick
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Nick; My tiller carries about 3 inches above ground on the 1250 and the 124 and will dig about 5 inches deep. Just my 02c.
Ken i have gotten about 6 inches rain this weekend. Now i can plow out the gullies in the garden.
 
I picked this up over the week end. Runs good, mows good. Since this has the 38 inch deck and since someone drilled the hole for the drag link an inch closer to the wheel on the left front spindle, I'm going to use this as my trim mower.

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TERRY - I think I know why IH didn't shorten that steering arm on the top of the left spindle but shortening it like the PO did sure makes them turn short in BOTH directions! I did that to my 72 MANY years ago and Dad did it to the 70 shortly afterwards.

Looks like a nice tractor!
 
Thanks, Dennis. I'm sure it was you who told me about drilling an extra hole for the drag link to allow shorter turning radius. I was going to try that on my 104 when lo and behold I find this 122 with the mod already done to it. So, when I saw that, I remember your post about it and so I was able to try it without doing the mod to my 104 first. I think my 104 and 123 will get the extra hole drilled. The good thing is I can always move the drag link back to it's original position.
 
I've got a question on the mechanical PTO clutch kits 759-3489 and 759-3490. It seems the only difference is the pressure (aka friction disc) spring. The 3489 kit has a spring (part #15) with flat tips, and the 3490 kit has a spring (part #14) with bent tips. The 3489 kit is for hydro transmissions (like a 149), and the 3490 is for manual transmissions (like a 147). Why does that make a difference on a PTO clutch? Note: they use the same pulley (parts #19 and #10).
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759-3489 Clutch Kit

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759-3490 Clutch Kit
 
Ken, I have a spool of 035 you can have! Will rust up before I can use it
 
Roy,
The difference in the springs is the one with bent tips is for the narrow frames, The other is for the wide frames. The pulleys are not the same, the wide frame pulley has tabs that the tension spring goes between to keep it from slipping out of place. So when you use the guage, make sure you are using the right one, because they are different too.
Brad
 
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Got the CCO running and I now own the most effective misquito fogger in wisconsin
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It runs good but the bolt hole for the carb bowl is stripped, a mixture of gas and oil seep out out the head(which leads me to think that its warped). I tried the push the clutch in but nothing happend. The driveshaft didnt stop...so idk if the linkage is disconnected or what. I have to take the deck off for further inspection.
 
Josh,
If the "O" has been sitting for awhile, the clutch is stuck, that is the two pressure plates are stuck/rusted to the clutch disc. Stop the engine, lock the clutch pedal down, take a screwdriver and gently pry the pressure plates away from the clutch disc, and all should be OK......at least for the time being. The clutch and driveshaft probably needs to be removed and cleaned up and worn parts replaced. An Original should always be parked with the clutch pedal locked down to keep the clutch from sticking. In areas of high humidity even the humidity in the air is enough moisture to cause the clutch/plates to "rust" together.
 
Paul, thanks for mentioning that about the Original clutch. I remember you mentioned it in the past but that was before I had my Original refurbished. I need to lock that clutch pedal down. I'd sure hate to smash it into the tree outside my shed door.
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