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Archive through March 29, 2010

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Marty-

You probably didn't know where to look. From the pin-on deck manual in Marlin's link (pinondeck.pdf):

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MARLIN - Donald gives Me too much credit on working with those little ROSS steering gearboxes.
You might try to remove the whole pin, it just screws right out after you loosen the jam nut. Be sure to take note of where the screwdriver slot is pointing before you loosen it. It's so much fun working UNDER the tractor isn't it! Take a close look at the pin for wear. Then with a good sharp file or whetstone polish the areas where there doesn't seem to be any wear. Don't change the taper, or remove much metal, you might want to remove just a bit of material from the bottom of the pin also.

Then reinstall the pin and adjust to the same position you had it originally after you tightened it.

I think your pin is bottoming in the worm groove or binding slightly where the groove isn't worn as much. The wear marks on the pin should show you the wear pattern you're trying to duplicate.

Also you may want to check to see if your steering wheel raises & lowers as you turn the wheel side-to-side. If it raises you may want to remove the cotter pin and screw the BIG potmetal adjusting screw IN on the bottom of the gearbox just a bit. Depending on how much the steering wheel raises determines how much you adjust, Don't tighten it too much or it pushes the top thrust bearing THROUGH the gearbox casting up into the steering tube.
 
I pulled the 42" deck out yesterday, cleaned the bottom up and covered it with E-Z slide. I would have liked to use that spray-in truck bedliner but its not in the budget this month. Started my 124 project last weekend but now im kinda at a stop. Im trying to pull the flywheel off of the 14 hp kohler but i cant get the puller behind the flywheel. Any suggestions?
 
Marty, let us know if you need more info than what Matt posted.
 
Josh, don't use a regular 3 jaw puller. It's easy to make a flywheel puller, it's safer (for the flywheel) and they work great. I may have better photos of one. If not I can take some photos this evening of the one I made. Or perhaps someone has a good photo of one.

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Josh, here's a drawing from the Kohler Service manual that shows the puller better than that dark photo I posted below. I made a similar tool out of some 3/8" x2" bar stock, which is a bit on the thin side but it worked for me, it was all I had on hand. Were I to make another one, I'd use at least 1/2" x2" bar stock. Hope this helps.

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JOSH - A harmonic balancer puller from a car engine works good for pulling Kohler flywheels. Don't know what it is about K321 flywheels but they do come off hard! I remember taking the one off My K321, I let the impact hammer & hammer on the puller, tapped the flywheel, tapped the puller, used a BIG breaker bar on the puller. Finally let it set for a while when I made an "Adult Beverage Run", it must have moved when I was gone, little 12 inch crescent wrench tightened the puller screw a bit and it popped right off. Don't drop the flywheel when it does come loose! It's heavy too.

KRAIG's correct about making your own puller, in fact I'd use something thicker than 1/2" steel. I have a piece of 1/2" x 2" steel in the shop all machined with 1/2" fine threads on the puller screw but it's been bent once or twice already.

A local autoparts store like O'Rilley's, NAPA, Autozone, etc should have a loaner harmonic balancer you could "Rent for free", costs some cash up front but it's 100% refundable.

Ohhhh and use good bolts, grd #5 at least to thread into the flywheel, think they're 3/8" coarse thread. The harmonic balancer puller probably has an assortment of usable bolts with it.

You knotching the frame on your 124 to fit the K321 in or making a "Small flywheel K321"?
I really like my small SFW K321, the large & small FW weigh the same, but it's amazing how much more responsive the small FW makes an engine. The K301 I "borrowed" My small FW from turned into a real dog with the Big FW installed. Still pulled good, just wouldn't accelerate.
 
Ok, got a question... 3 point hitch on the back. Does the bar go on the inside or outside of the frame? MIne goes on the inside of the frame, rubs on the hydro cooling pipe bracket. Also doesnt seem to line up with the lift underneath there.Shouldnt the "bar" posed to be on the outside of the frame so it can line up where you hook the plow lift on a 147? I know yall have brinly 3 point hitches on 147s...
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Dennis, you're fun to read. POP is the only word applicable for when the flywheel lets go. I've used heat and the type of puller like Kraig's fig. 10-3. What a satisfying feeling when they do POP! Was surprised to hear the large and small are same weight. 25#, BTW.
Air wrench handy if available.
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Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Hope you feeling better ! We can`t have you out of commission. I ordered a few cub parts today and have to wait four days till they can get them shipped here. Have a Great day.
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Don, Marty, I'm fine thank you. I think it was the brat that I ate Sunday evening, it didn't agree with me, it might have been slightly under-cooked. I didn't sleep very well Sunday night. BTW, no alcohol was consumed.
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I use a steering wheel puller now, get it tight and smack the tightener bolt with a hammer and pop. For years I had a bowling pin, get a bar behind the flywheel (on a boss) and hit the crank a good whack with that pin and they'd come off.
 
I have a 1450 that is leaking hydraulic fluid from somewhere and was wondering where I add fluid at and what kind of fluid to use. Thanks!
 
Trick I've started using is to take a muffler gun with a blunt tip in it, put a sleeve over it to keep it centered on the end of the puller bolt and "buzz" the end of the bolt. The sleeve I made started with a piece of rubber hose that slipped over the blunt tip, then stepped up with a couple of progressively bigger pieces of hose until the sleeve would fit over the bolt. I don't have any pics of it right now. The vibrations from the muffler gun seem a whole lot more effective than hits from a BMFH, with a whole lot less possible damage. I learned the trick from a neighbor (truck mechanic) that uses the same "buzzing" on the sides of tie rod ends to loosen 'em (after taking the nut off).
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Kendell Ide

I think you lost me on the muffler gun!unless this is what you mean lol
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Snapon makes a nice tool,but I can only afford cheap stuff.(air hammer)
 
I have drilled a 5/8 bolt on top and use the air hammer. I will always soak it first,with your rust remover and then blow dry and repeat.I have 125 lb air at the hammer.But its realy the vibration that does it. BFH will only make you feel stupid and out some $ ,when you brake it.
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Don:
Yes, that's the type... the neighbor's gun (air chisel, zip gun, etc, etc)is a high end $400.00 job, but my $25.00 yard sale MAC special works just as well for me. The tip I use is just cut off flat...
 
Dennis F. I'll give what you and Donald T. have suggested a try this weekend. I already replaced the worn driveshaft last weekend. The hole in the new one wasn't quite centered so when the coil pin came out the other side it wouldn't slip into the collar. So I need to use the Dremel to ever so slightly grind a teeny bit off the collar to get the coil pin to fit. Still I am excited to be plowing with the 125 again this year. Hopefully I can get to Mike Beadle's and pick up the Ag tires for it.
 

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