Robert, Are you working on the pin with the trans axle/differential in the tractor? If you are I suggest that you remove the unit so that you can support the shaft solidly when you pound on it. If you don't,you risk making the frt seal leak or dislodging the trans frt brg snap ring (been there,done that). On my 126 (with creeper) not only was the snap ring dislodged but the frt brg was bad anyway.
Archive through March 29, 2010
- Thread starter wmiller
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
gotta question for all you people. The tri rib tires that pullers use. If any of you know how they like to have there front end lower than the back i have 16*6.50-8 in the front. I want my front end to sit lower to the ground. any particular size that I would want to use?
RICHARD - I don't pull, but know a bit about it. Most pullers use 3.50 X 8 or 4.00 X 8 tires, some even use smaller tires, on 6" dia wheels. Also some pullers make tubular steel axles to lower the front of their tractors.
When pulling with a front end DOWN attitude, the hitch point is raised and pulls the rear tires down harder against the track. It also takes more effort to raise the front end of the tractor UP which keeps the hitch point from dropping.
The reason for the small tires, tubular axle, even fiberglass grills for CC's as opposed to the cast iron is to reduce the actual tractor weight which allows more added weight to be put further forward which keeps the frt end down better.
If You scroll down the list of topics about half way there's a pulling forum where someone may be able to suggest a better answer to your questions. I've looked for 6" dia wheels to fit a NF CC without much success. Maybe the Pullers can answer both our questions!
When pulling with a front end DOWN attitude, the hitch point is raised and pulls the rear tires down harder against the track. It also takes more effort to raise the front end of the tractor UP which keeps the hitch point from dropping.
The reason for the small tires, tubular axle, even fiberglass grills for CC's as opposed to the cast iron is to reduce the actual tractor weight which allows more added weight to be put further forward which keeps the frt end down better.
If You scroll down the list of topics about half way there's a pulling forum where someone may be able to suggest a better answer to your questions. I've looked for 6" dia wheels to fit a NF CC without much success. Maybe the Pullers can answer both our questions!
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Howdy All. Question here. Yesterday afternoon I decided to tighten the 125's steering. It was getting really bad so I turned the pin like I should and now when I turn left the steering is hard and likes to lock up. Turning to the right is super smooth. I was tired and maybe should have postponed this adjustment however I am trying to get it ready for Plow Day. What have I done wrong? TIA for your help.
So, far the 782D, Keepsake 1650 and the 125 are Plow Day bound.
So, far the 782D, Keepsake 1650 and the 125 are Plow Day bound.
Marlin Homrighausen
I had the same problem with a steering box here,I found that the pin was wore and that affected the way it sat in the shaft. I will take mine apart and replace the pin or grind it to the shape it should be.once the pin wears its hard to get a fine adjustment I wanted. Dennis F might have another thought also.
I had the same problem with a steering box here,I found that the pin was wore and that affected the way it sat in the shaft. I will take mine apart and replace the pin or grind it to the shape it should be.once the pin wears its hard to get a fine adjustment I wanted. Dennis F might have another thought also.
Just brought home a 105. Had to disengage the hydro to roll it onto the truck. When I got it home and got it started, it just won't move. Won't even make the "hydro whine" when the lever is moved. I just pulled the rear end and cleaned the "dump valves" (they were all gummed up and stuck in the down position). When I got it all back together, it still won't move. Anybody have any ideas?? All help, as always, greatly appreciated!!!
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Scott R,
Sounds like time for a fresh CC filter and load of Hy-Tran... Also, check to make sure the driveshaft is turning the pump, as the roll pin or rag joint may be fubar... HTH
Sounds like time for a fresh CC filter and load of Hy-Tran... Also, check to make sure the driveshaft is turning the pump, as the roll pin or rag joint may be fubar... HTH
mgwin
Well-known member
Still no luck in locating pictures or a diagram of the front pulley assembly for a 70.
Where's Charlie and Kraig?
Where's Charlie and Kraig?
Scott Reinbolt
I would put the tractor up on stands and at 1/2 throttle quickly move the hydro lever from forward to reverse . some times it takes some playing to get the dump valves to work again. Did you Check the fluid level? Have a look at the back of the hydro pump and see if the stub shaft is turning, this will tell you if you have a drive shaft issue.
I would put the tractor up on stands and at 1/2 throttle quickly move the hydro lever from forward to reverse . some times it takes some playing to get the dump valves to work again. Did you Check the fluid level? Have a look at the back of the hydro pump and see if the stub shaft is turning, this will tell you if you have a drive shaft issue.
stanner
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Scott R,
check out the
FAQ's, and here:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/125%20Operator.pdf
pg 29 & 31... HTH
check out the
FAQ's, and here:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/125%20Operator.pdf
pg 29 & 31... HTH
What do you do with a really stubborn steering wheel? I'm trying to pull one from a 125 so I can rebuild the steering gear and fix a binding problem in the upper part of hydrostat/brake linkage. Started out with pulling up with my knees and hitting a coupling nut screwed to the column shaft--no luck.
Today I had our guy on the plasma table burn out this puller for me so I could use a 3-jaw to pull the steering wheel. I tried the puller and it didn't want to move. Let it soak with PB Blaster for about 2 hours and tried again. I thought it was moving as I tightened the puller, but then realized that it was compressing the back of the steering wheel hub.
There's no rust on the column. It had been outside for at least a year, but the horn button was in place.
What's my next option? I have spare steering wheels, but I'd rather not destroy this one because it's nearly perfect.
Thanks,
Jerry
Today I had our guy on the plasma table burn out this puller for me so I could use a 3-jaw to pull the steering wheel. I tried the puller and it didn't want to move. Let it soak with PB Blaster for about 2 hours and tried again. I thought it was moving as I tightened the puller, but then realized that it was compressing the back of the steering wheel hub.
There's no rust on the column. It had been outside for at least a year, but the horn button was in place.
What's my next option? I have spare steering wheels, but I'd rather not destroy this one because it's nearly perfect.
Thanks,
Jerry
Marty, I was home from work today, wasn't feeling very well this morning. I'll see what I can find for photos for you in the morning when I get to work. I have my complete archive on my work PC. I have it backed up here at home but it's on a different PC and it isn't turned on right now.
Jerry, it might be worth a try to pound the steering wheel on to break it free. It works great for the hydro control lever, might work for steering wheels too.
You might have to give the PB Blaster more time as well, like days, respraying every day. The last one I removed took several days of daily spraying with PB Blaster and removal attempts.
Jerry, it might be worth a try to pound the steering wheel on to break it free. It works great for the hydro control lever, might work for steering wheels too.
Jerry Muncie
Good idea with the pulling adapter, might 'steal' your idea.
If I understand your problem, you were crushing the lower plastic lip on the steering wheel ?
If so, with a spacer added to the top center of the adapter your idea will work.
The spacer should contact the metal center of the wheel as close to the shaft as possible.
Oil it, tighten the puller and leave it , when you walk by again give it another turn or two, it will come off,
As Kraig said, it may take several days, but it will come.
Good idea with the pulling adapter, might 'steal' your idea.
If I understand your problem, you were crushing the lower plastic lip on the steering wheel ?
If so, with a spacer added to the top center of the adapter your idea will work.
The spacer should contact the metal center of the wheel as close to the shaft as possible.
Oil it, tighten the puller and leave it , when you walk by again give it another turn or two, it will come off,
As Kraig said, it may take several days, but it will come.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Donald T. Thank You!!! I'll try that this weekend.
Marty G. I haven't time to check through this however try this site. http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/
Marty G. I haven't time to check through this however try this site. http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/
mgwin
Well-known member
Kraig,
Hope you get to feeling better. It's the wrong season to be getting sick (Cub Cadet season).
Marlin H.,
I've already tried that site with no luck. Thanks anyway.
Hope you get to feeling better. It's the wrong season to be getting sick (Cub Cadet season).
Marlin H.,
I've already tried that site with no luck. Thanks anyway.
