Thanks for all the input guys. As for the frame I wish it was that simple. I have my own welder not a problem, the bolt holes in the rearendhousing are stripped out ,Thats a problem. Its a shame, had a good running engine, Also the drive shaft was shot and it was flopping so bad it took the blades off of the fan. If I could get it for about nothing I would buy it, otherwise I will not. Thanks guys
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Archive through March 20, 2012
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David James
A good Running engine ! Now If I could find a good running engine in a cub the bonus would be, what it is , kraig and a few more think the 125 is so great. then there's me that have a 125 ,129 and a 149.I had a 13 fin 16 K hp tractor and sold it. I knew I did not need or use a bigger hp than a 14 I have used my 149 to plow and every chore that I needed . find a home for it!
A good Running engine ! Now If I could find a good running engine in a cub the bonus would be, what it is , kraig and a few more think the 125 is so great. then there's me that have a 125 ,129 and a 149.I had a 13 fin 16 K hp tractor and sold it. I knew I did not need or use a bigger hp than a 14 I have used my 149 to plow and every chore that I needed . find a home for it!
David James
IF YOU HAVE A PIECE OF BRASS YOU CAN WELD AND DRILL AGAIN. No a great excuse for a guy that can weld! (the bolt holes in the rearendhousing are stripped out) did you remove the axle housings to see if you could get the broken bolts out? I BTDT and have a few tee shirts, I would never set a Cub aside for that issue. All I can say is my Cubs all ways surprise me as to what they can do and I know that what I have done will only make them run and put a smile on someone.
If you can weld you could weld a nut fast to a broken stud and replace it .
IF YOU HAVE A PIECE OF BRASS YOU CAN WELD AND DRILL AGAIN. No a great excuse for a guy that can weld! (the bolt holes in the rearendhousing are stripped out) did you remove the axle housings to see if you could get the broken bolts out? I BTDT and have a few tee shirts, I would never set a Cub aside for that issue. All I can say is my Cubs all ways surprise me as to what they can do and I know that what I have done will only make them run and put a smile on someone.
If you can weld you could weld a nut fast to a broken stud and replace it .
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
David J - I think you made the right call. As I recall the person was asking $800 and a few on here suggested half that or less. People have experienced what you're describing, but I seem to recall other problems with this tractor as well. This is probably one I would have walked away from, unless it was in the really really low 3 digits, nearly 2 digits.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but their parts do get shared)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but their parts do get shared)
DAVID J. - I agree with Harry. A loose rearend is not at all common in a CC. That tractor has been exposed to abnormal use of a very shoddy repair. The $800 asking price was realistic for a tractor that started rght up and had no issues with the mower or drive train.
There's a better CC out there with Your name on it.... Keep looking.
Just had a thought.... every time we get to talking about attachments or accessories for CC's CHARLIE posts a pic of one of his CC's with that attachment or accessory. CHARLIE SHOULD START A CUB CADET MUSEUM. There's several IH Farmall museums scattered around the country, but nothing dedicated to CC's.
There's a better CC out there with Your name on it.... Keep looking.
Just had a thought.... every time we get to talking about attachments or accessories for CC's CHARLIE posts a pic of one of his CC's with that attachment or accessory. CHARLIE SHOULD START A CUB CADET MUSEUM. There's several IH Farmall museums scattered around the country, but nothing dedicated to CC's.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
HH
That is my 149 with that 13 fin K321s that we were talking about a few weeks ago...
The wheel weights are JD's my father got back in the early 70's from a neighbor's JD212 for free...
"Hi everyone, My name is Scott, and I run JD parts on my cub"
"Hi Scott!"
That is my 149 with that 13 fin K321s that we were talking about a few weeks ago...
The wheel weights are JD's my father got back in the early 70's from a neighbor's JD212 for free...
"Hi everyone, My name is Scott, and I run JD parts on my cub"
"Hi Scott!"
Scott, don't feel bad, I use JD Torq-Gard™ oil in the Kohlers in my Cub Cadets.
However, I do so because my brother is the parts manager at a JD dealer and the owners of the place give me his employee discount on parts and stuff.
SCOTT - I ran Trans-Gard or whatever JD's name for their hydraulic/transmission oil similar to Hy-Tran was in my GD #72 for a couple years. I wouldn't run it in a Hydro since IMO it's isn't as good as Hy-Tran. My 982 also has a JD hydro speed/direction lever knob on it, installed by the PO. And I've been known to buy Onan & Kohler parts from a local JD dealer.
Not sure what my first pair of wheel weights came off of, but I bought them in 1970 at a farm auction for $5/pr, they are IDENTICAL to the JD 42# weights but mine were really old & rusty, no sign of ANY paint on them at all. So it's just something else JD borrowed the design from somebody else and profitted from.
I don;t really have a problem with JD, when I was at FARMALL I was there for the first pallet of JD cast wide front axle castings from JD's Silvis, IL foundry that was torn down soon afterwards to be machined. I can exitmate the age of 86-series tractors by locatings the JD logo cast into the frt axles. IH's Memphis foundry had been making the axles, but IH saved a boat load of cash on transportation getting the axles from 10 miles away instead of 500+ miles.
Not sure what my first pair of wheel weights came off of, but I bought them in 1970 at a farm auction for $5/pr, they are IDENTICAL to the JD 42# weights but mine were really old & rusty, no sign of ANY paint on them at all. So it's just something else JD borrowed the design from somebody else and profitted from.
I don;t really have a problem with JD, when I was at FARMALL I was there for the first pallet of JD cast wide front axle castings from JD's Silvis, IL foundry that was torn down soon afterwards to be machined. I can exitmate the age of 86-series tractors by locatings the JD logo cast into the frt axles. IH's Memphis foundry had been making the axles, but IH saved a boat load of cash on transportation getting the axles from 10 miles away instead of 500+ miles.
KRAIG - I saw an ad in Redpower Mag last fall for collectable Letter series tractors, a Super H, Super M, F-20, and a Super A with Santa Claus or somebody delivering X-mas trees or presents with the Farmall's, little imported detailed tractors about six inches long. I got the whole set and of course I'm on Bradford Exchange's mailing list for ANYTHING ag related now. Yesterday I got and threw away the letter for the JD Cuckco clock. I thought it was appropriate for something related to JD though.
Willis, what mower deck do you have? A 108 could have any of the following deck sizes: 38", 42", 44" or 50".
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
About 6 years ago, I was using the 149 in a spring cleanup at the town churches, so I drove it from the house into the village. About mid morning, one of the front wheel bearings went, so off to the JD dealer in the next town over for some new, quality $8.50 sealed bearings.. The old bearings were hardware storeradial bearings that obviously did not last... But that's It... no more JD parts on mine... yet..
My Cub Cadet dealer is closer than any JD dealer, so I am not tempted to use anything from the green store. Never have, never plan to. I will admit to having three 16th scale JD tractors, an Ertl Precision series 140 H3 garden tractor with the brinly plow, double disc, cultivator, and planter. A Kentucky FFA edition of a JD GP, and a 420 crawler that's painted yellow. They all live in the bottom of a display case surrounded by 16th scale Farmalls/Internationals, Cub Cadets and Case models. I always thought that real Cub Cadets were yellow and white, Farmalls were red, and JD's were green so they could hide in the weeds.....
hydroharry
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Scott T - you know, it must be something about the color showing up. I just can't keep recalling see that. I noticed in one of your profile pics you have the S/G mount installed. Does the S/G clear that shroud bubble made for the integrated starter? Also, I'm amazed at the price of the JD wheel bearings. Did you happen to leave a "2" prefix off that price. I had an urgent need for a Kohler carb kit several years ago when they were $11 at a CC dealer, so I stopped into the local JD dealer and he wanted $28 for the same Kohler part number. I spent $2 in gas and another 1/2hr to drive up the road to the CC dealer. Kraig, I assume you do some comparative shopping especially with your "connections", but I'm also amazed you'd post that pic of a paper bag, even after it's on the floor. Back in the old days there'd be a bonfire.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and generally will not be seen/viewed to operate correctly with other than IH parts - which doesn't necessarily mean they don't work)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and generally will not be seen/viewed to operate correctly with other than IH parts - which doesn't necessarily mean they don't work)
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Some JD parts are cheaper and some are better (hyd outlet covers...4X nicer), but so much of it depends on the dealer/area/etc.
Lets be really honest, there are a lot of parts on both Cubs and Deeres that are 100% the same (steering gears, engines, hydros, etc.) so in some cases "parts is parts"
BTW, I love JD weights (painted yellow, white, or red) as they are 2x the weight at about the same $$$$
Lets be really honest, there are a lot of parts on both Cubs and Deeres that are 100% the same (steering gears, engines, hydros, etc.) so in some cases "parts is parts"
BTW, I love JD weights (painted yellow, white, or red) as they are 2x the weight at about the same $$$$
stanner
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HH,
The S/G does not clear that bubble, as I had to clearance it so it'll fit. The original end cover would not fit over the ring gear ion the flywheel, so I used the one that came with it. I've been considering tearing the engine apart to remove the charging portion, flywheel, and shroud off and replacing them with the shroud and flywheel from the original K321. The other option is to get a bendix starter for the engine and convert it to QL setup...
As for JD parts, The wheel bearings were probably made by the same company that makes the CC parts, so I guess I'm just liberating a poor, lonely wheel bearing from an eternity of JD enslavement, and releasing it into the wild CC ranch in wheel bearing heaven....
The S/G does not clear that bubble, as I had to clearance it so it'll fit. The original end cover would not fit over the ring gear ion the flywheel, so I used the one that came with it. I've been considering tearing the engine apart to remove the charging portion, flywheel, and shroud off and replacing them with the shroud and flywheel from the original K321. The other option is to get a bendix starter for the engine and convert it to QL setup...
As for JD parts, The wheel bearings were probably made by the same company that makes the CC parts, so I guess I'm just liberating a poor, lonely wheel bearing from an eternity of JD enslavement, and releasing it into the wild CC ranch in wheel bearing heaven....
Year or so ago I was at my local CC/Case-IH/International truck dealer on a parts run, PAUL R. knows who I use.... so does Charlie.
I asked the parts guy if he had an oil drain plug for the Onan in my 982, the one that was on it had a very shallow hex, maybe 1/8th inch high, plus it was recessed up in the frame and oil pan and my socket had chewed up the corners of the hex which were already chewed up when I bought the tractor 10-12 yrs ago. The parts guy laughed, "You mean an ONAN part?... HE-HE-HE...NO!" So I look up the part numbers for a B48G powered #420 and called the local off-brand dealer. Parts guy apologized for not having the parts in stock but said he'd order them and I could pick them up in 2 days. When I went and paid the $3.25 for the nylon washer and $3.17 for the new drain plug I find the new plug had a hex almost TWO inches long! I cut the hex off about an inch and it works fine.
I have a small power equipment shop about 5 miles from my house, mostly sell Stihl & ECHO hand-held equipment, but they're an authorized Kohler, ONAN, & B&S dealer too, but they don't stock ANYTHING for an engine ten years old or older. Everything would be a special order and EXPENSIVE. The little grommet for the points cover on a Kohler K-series would be almost SIX Bucks!
SO... Like STEVE B. says, many many parts for the CC's and the green & yellar tractors are ALL made by the same outside suppliers and depending on your local dealers you can get quite a few CC repair parts from your local JD dealer. Sometimes the JD parts are cheaper, sometimes the IH/CC parts are cheaper, depends on your dealers. If your local CC dealer is a Case/IH/NH dealer IH still has the service parts for CC's that are common with the CUB Farmall and other equipment that use similar parts. Last pair of CC rear axle carrier outer seals I bought the invoice said they were "Corn Head Gearbox seals", and since every corn head has two gearboxes for each row and each gearbox has two or three seals IH buys many many more of them than MTD, and the price reflects that volume.
I'm like Steve too, my JD-cloned weights are almost twice as heavy as CC weights, the hardware I bought, four 1/2" x 6" carriage bolts cost more than I paid for the weights, and they look fine IH 935 White.
One thing about those off-topic parts is they are much more confusing, they used 3/4", 1" and 25 mm spindles, and without a serial number there seems to be problems getting the correct parts. One thing my buddy who has four #317's always rubs in is the fact he can rebuild mower deck spindles for about $16 each, and I spent $170 on ONE waterpump bearing & housing for my 50C deck a year or two ago. I really didn't need the new Woodruff key but it was only a Dollar. The top housing half was the REAL painful part, it fits in the palm of your hand and was almost $60.
SCOTT T. - I know parts prices have really gone up the last couple years. Not sure what the CC/MTD frt wheel bearings would have cost six years ago but I replaced all four on the #70 about 1-1/2 yrs ago, $16 EACH, so $64 plus tax total! I've been the way of the cheap hardware store bearings before too, I'd rather pay a little more for something that will last more than 2-3 years.
I asked the parts guy if he had an oil drain plug for the Onan in my 982, the one that was on it had a very shallow hex, maybe 1/8th inch high, plus it was recessed up in the frame and oil pan and my socket had chewed up the corners of the hex which were already chewed up when I bought the tractor 10-12 yrs ago. The parts guy laughed, "You mean an ONAN part?... HE-HE-HE...NO!" So I look up the part numbers for a B48G powered #420 and called the local off-brand dealer. Parts guy apologized for not having the parts in stock but said he'd order them and I could pick them up in 2 days. When I went and paid the $3.25 for the nylon washer and $3.17 for the new drain plug I find the new plug had a hex almost TWO inches long! I cut the hex off about an inch and it works fine.
I have a small power equipment shop about 5 miles from my house, mostly sell Stihl & ECHO hand-held equipment, but they're an authorized Kohler, ONAN, & B&S dealer too, but they don't stock ANYTHING for an engine ten years old or older. Everything would be a special order and EXPENSIVE. The little grommet for the points cover on a Kohler K-series would be almost SIX Bucks!
SO... Like STEVE B. says, many many parts for the CC's and the green & yellar tractors are ALL made by the same outside suppliers and depending on your local dealers you can get quite a few CC repair parts from your local JD dealer. Sometimes the JD parts are cheaper, sometimes the IH/CC parts are cheaper, depends on your dealers. If your local CC dealer is a Case/IH/NH dealer IH still has the service parts for CC's that are common with the CUB Farmall and other equipment that use similar parts. Last pair of CC rear axle carrier outer seals I bought the invoice said they were "Corn Head Gearbox seals", and since every corn head has two gearboxes for each row and each gearbox has two or three seals IH buys many many more of them than MTD, and the price reflects that volume.
I'm like Steve too, my JD-cloned weights are almost twice as heavy as CC weights, the hardware I bought, four 1/2" x 6" carriage bolts cost more than I paid for the weights, and they look fine IH 935 White.
One thing about those off-topic parts is they are much more confusing, they used 3/4", 1" and 25 mm spindles, and without a serial number there seems to be problems getting the correct parts. One thing my buddy who has four #317's always rubs in is the fact he can rebuild mower deck spindles for about $16 each, and I spent $170 on ONE waterpump bearing & housing for my 50C deck a year or two ago. I really didn't need the new Woodruff key but it was only a Dollar. The top housing half was the REAL painful part, it fits in the palm of your hand and was almost $60.
SCOTT T. - I know parts prices have really gone up the last couple years. Not sure what the CC/MTD frt wheel bearings would have cost six years ago but I replaced all four on the #70 about 1-1/2 yrs ago, $16 EACH, so $64 plus tax total! I've been the way of the cheap hardware store bearings before too, I'd rather pay a little more for something that will last more than 2-3 years.
