Thanks Wayne, i was originally just getting this to help out but my 6 month old husqvarna kohler 20 hp motor blew up. I have been told it runs good and cuts good, so I hope i won't have to do to much to it, I will probably use it over the new one if kohler decides to honor warranty.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through March 16, 2010
- Thread starter elthomas
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sorry in advance for the mega post here, just did some work to the 123 vanguard and figured id share it. i cant believe how nice the new engine fits, almost as if it was meant to be. only mod needed is a useless muffler bracket removed.
Justin H.
BUT it doesn't!
PLEASE hit that ENTER key after each pic you add from now on.
Wheelhouse?
WTH is that?
BUT it doesn't!
PLEASE hit that ENTER key after each pic you add from now on.
Wheelhouse?
WTH is that?
mgwin
Well-known member
Thanks everyone, for the decal information. I am going to replace the hood decals, but am hoping to not damage the paint. I probably won't try the mayo, just not yet!
Look at the photo and you will see why i'm going to can the decals. The lights will also get a good coatin' of yellar!
Look at the photo and you will see why i'm going to can the decals. The lights will also get a good coatin' of yellar!
sorry 'bout that charlie, forgot the enter thing
that is from a generac "wheelhouse" branded genset. its a heavier than normal duty vanguard series briggs, hence the black shroud instead of red. it has that useless tapered pto crank in it, why they dont use a normal one beats me lol
that is from a generac "wheelhouse" branded genset. its a heavier than normal duty vanguard series briggs, hence the black shroud instead of red. it has that useless tapered pto crank in it, why they dont use a normal one beats me lol
glippert
Well-known member
Ken -
Spring is the season for floods
MARTY G. - That will be one nice Cub Cadet when you get the "Ahhhem" Correct decals on that hood. The blue "Cub Cadet" looks fine....I just never understood why someone would use that red "International" script.
Good luck sneaking the Wifes blow dryer out!
JERRY M. - Never had a problem with the air intake catching tree limbs. IH always put the mufflers ahead of the air intake. JD never did but they were close to each other. We never had any low shed doors or tree & brush limbs, the hogs pretty well kept the fence rows clean in all the fields. When Dad put the "Koehn" tractor cab on the 450 and then the 4010 We used a long exhaust extension on both tractors. Most of the barn doors were tall enough to not catch them.
I did lose a cultivator sweep, shank, and cross bar on the frt mounted cultivator on the 450 one day laying by 20 acres of corn. It was the sweep right behind the frt wheels, under the belly of the tractor. I didn't notice it missing until I was done. I spent several hours on my Honda Z50 Mini-Trail running up & down the corn rows looking for it and never found it! I was always amazed DAD never found it in the rear tire of the M with the mounted corn picker that fall.
Good luck sneaking the Wifes blow dryer out!
JERRY M. - Never had a problem with the air intake catching tree limbs. IH always put the mufflers ahead of the air intake. JD never did but they were close to each other. We never had any low shed doors or tree & brush limbs, the hogs pretty well kept the fence rows clean in all the fields. When Dad put the "Koehn" tractor cab on the 450 and then the 4010 We used a long exhaust extension on both tractors. Most of the barn doors were tall enough to not catch them.
I did lose a cultivator sweep, shank, and cross bar on the frt mounted cultivator on the 450 one day laying by 20 acres of corn. It was the sweep right behind the frt wheels, under the belly of the tractor. I didn't notice it missing until I was done. I spent several hours on my Honda Z50 Mini-Trail running up & down the corn rows looking for it and never found it! I was always amazed DAD never found it in the rear tire of the M with the mounted corn picker that fall.
I have tried everything to get the exaust pip out of my engin blockit is froze in there good
ive used pb wd-40 and I have goten nowhere
is there any suggestions on how to remove it.
ive used pb wd-40 and I have goten nowhere
is there any suggestions on how to remove it.
Justin Hokinson
I welded a drive hub that looked like yours,,well not quite as bad. But after welding and some grinding I put it back in and ordered another. I have the new hub for about two years and never replaced the welded one yet. wfm
Marty A. Gwin
Thats a fine looking O you have there and I agree I like yeller lights also.If your paint is not fresh and has hardened acetone will remove the decal. BUT I would test some on the inside first.googone works also.
On another note Tuesday I spend the afternoon In the garage with the Ram getting a broken leaf spring replaced.The road around here have spring killer pot holes and I broke one spring above the helper spring. So I replace with new ,both springs. It now sits up in the ass end . Went a little heaver and still got a nice ride. Today will be a Tractor day for me as soon as it warms up.
I welded a drive hub that looked like yours,,well not quite as bad. But after welding and some grinding I put it back in and ordered another. I have the new hub for about two years and never replaced the welded one yet. wfm
Marty A. Gwin
Thats a fine looking O you have there and I agree I like yeller lights also.If your paint is not fresh and has hardened acetone will remove the decal. BUT I would test some on the inside first.googone works also.
On another note Tuesday I spend the afternoon In the garage with the Ram getting a broken leaf spring replaced.The road around here have spring killer pot holes and I broke one spring above the helper spring. So I replace with new ,both springs. It now sits up in the ass end . Went a little heaver and still got a nice ride. Today will be a Tractor day for me as soon as it warms up.
lucas donald jones
About the only thing WD40 is good for is spraying on plug wires when they are wet and arking. use a good rust remover. wax ,diesel fuel,heat it and cooling might break it free also. Good luck
Why are you taking it out?
About the only thing WD40 is good for is spraying on plug wires when they are wet and arking. use a good rust remover. wax ,diesel fuel,heat it and cooling might break it free also. Good luck
Why are you taking it out?
It was moved the wrong direction at some point so
I cant get my exaust in.
I cant get my exaust in.
DONALD - Kinda O/T, but I had to replace the rear springs in my old '87 F-150. I was looking to trade it on the PSD back in '96 so went with used springs. WHAT a battle dealing with 9 yr old rusted suspension parts! Imapct wrenches were worthless with the shackle bolts in the rubber bushings! I swapped one spring and left the other that had no broken leaves. The truck had 4 leafs and a top mounted over-load spring. I had two broken leaves in the main pack...
LUCAS - Don's correct, WD-40 helps with rust but PB Blaster or KROIL are what you need. Even melted candle wax works well I've heard. And use "heat", propane torch. Might be a good idea to remove the gas tank & carb. too.
Have you got any of the old elbow left in the exh. port? If so maybe you can bend part of it down with a small hammer & chisel or punch. If the elbow is in really bad shape it will have to come out in pieces.
LUCAS - Don's correct, WD-40 helps with rust but PB Blaster or KROIL are what you need. Even melted candle wax works well I've heard. And use "heat", propane torch. Might be a good idea to remove the gas tank & carb. too.
Have you got any of the old elbow left in the exh. port? If so maybe you can bend part of it down with a small hammer & chisel or punch. If the elbow is in really bad shape it will have to come out in pieces.
Well we learn something every day(if you pay attention
) Wheelhouse is on a ship here,its the place the boss (captain) sits and barks orders out the window lol. Its 50 deg here now and I think it will warm up some more yet. Time to get the tractors running.
Dennis
My ram Is a 1995 and was never apart for spring repair.A torch helped get it done. I never really noticed how much it had dropped in the rear till we replaced the broken spring and the other one the right side.The Ram has 4 and then the helper on the bottom.
Have a great day guys as I must go see If I got mail from Charlie.
Dennis
My ram Is a 1995 and was never apart for spring repair.A torch helped get it done. I never really noticed how much it had dropped in the rear till we replaced the broken spring and the other one the right side.The Ram has 4 and then the helper on the bottom.
Have a great day guys as I must go see If I got mail from Charlie.
PAUL - I had another good set of u-bolts to clamp the springs to the axles, got them "used" with the springs. It was the shackel bolts that killed me!
SON & I rebuilt the whole rear axle in his '93 Lightning early last winter. We actually snapped one of the shackel bolts off in the spring it was rusted so tight. Took a 3/4" breaker bar with Me bearing down on it with both feet and pulling up on the bumper to snap the sucker! Son's I-R impact is twice the tool my old CP is, it made short work of everything except that one bolt.
I never have rust issues with my CC's or FARMALL's. Except on the exhaust. Any time things go back together everything gets coated with anti-sieze. The Super H is getting rebuilt someday, not looking forward to pulling the manifolds off the head since it's NEVER been off in over 56 years.
SON & I rebuilt the whole rear axle in his '93 Lightning early last winter. We actually snapped one of the shackel bolts off in the spring it was rusted so tight. Took a 3/4" breaker bar with Me bearing down on it with both feet and pulling up on the bumper to snap the sucker! Son's I-R impact is twice the tool my old CP is, it made short work of everything except that one bolt.
I never have rust issues with my CC's or FARMALL's. Except on the exhaust. Any time things go back together everything gets coated with anti-sieze. The Super H is getting rebuilt someday, not looking forward to pulling the manifolds off the head since it's NEVER been off in over 56 years.
DONALD - Same thing with my '96 F-250, I think the rear springs are rusted SOLID. I had over 2500# of concrete landscaping edgers set in the back last summer and it barely sagged. Maybe that's why it rides so rough!
ANYHOW, Like You, I may have to fire up a CC and hook up to a cart today....pickup some falled & broken branches around the yard......before the SNOW comes back Saturday! Got up to 65 yesterday, grilled some REALLY good Wisconsin Beer Brat's on the grill for supper last night in a short-sleeved shirt!
ANYHOW, Like You, I may have to fire up a CC and hook up to a cart today....pickup some falled & broken branches around the yard......before the SNOW comes back Saturday! Got up to 65 yesterday, grilled some REALLY good Wisconsin Beer Brat's on the grill for supper last night in a short-sleeved shirt!
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
I used my 149 hydro for the first time pushing dirt around. I found that it takes some practice operating the hydro, and lift at the sametime, this is my first time using a hydro as i have always had gear drives.
