-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through March 16, 2007
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
TERRY B. - I put heim joints on My 72 about 15 yrs ago. They haven't worn a bit. Greasable heims are probably not necessary. The OEM ball joints left a lot to be desired.
And on the topic of tires.... I buy all My Cubbie tires from the local tire shop also. I've got all the tools to mount them so I just buy the tires AND TUBES.
And on the topic of front weight while plowing, I've plowed with and without frt weights. The only time I've ever had a problem was while lifting the plow with the 982 once...Front wheels came off the ground about a foot. Normally the longer chassis tractor seems like it has a problem getting weight transfered to the back when pulling. But the longer wheelbase and wider tires sure make the ride a lot smoother. After 2-3 hours at a PD I feel about the same as when I spent 12+ hrs on a full size tractor.
And after a couple days in the shop it's amazing how fast these Cubbies come apart.
And on the topic of tires.... I buy all My Cubbie tires from the local tire shop also. I've got all the tools to mount them so I just buy the tires AND TUBES.
And on the topic of front weight while plowing, I've plowed with and without frt weights. The only time I've ever had a problem was while lifting the plow with the 982 once...Front wheels came off the ground about a foot. Normally the longer chassis tractor seems like it has a problem getting weight transfered to the back when pulling. But the longer wheelbase and wider tires sure make the ride a lot smoother. After 2-3 hours at a PD I feel about the same as when I spent 12+ hrs on a full size tractor.
And after a couple days in the shop it's amazing how fast these Cubbies come apart.
Terry B. -- Thanks a bunch for sharing your research findings!
After seeing that your tractor has a sweet front end loader on it, I now understand the reason why you likely put more strain on your tie rod ends!
Do you know if there's a boot available that would keep the dirt out of the joint - maybe it comes with a boot?
You sure have one good-looking and undoubtedly hard-working tractor there!
Thanks again!
Ryan W
After seeing that your tractor has a sweet front end loader on it, I now understand the reason why you likely put more strain on your tie rod ends!
Do you know if there's a boot available that would keep the dirt out of the joint - maybe it comes with a boot?
You sure have one good-looking and undoubtedly hard-working tractor there!
Thanks again!
Ryan W
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Ryan:
My 129's biggest front end load is the QA-42, and we don't have a particularly dusty/sandy environment, but in the 21 years that I've had it, I've probably replaced at least six or eight of the stock tie rod ends. Quiet honestly, I think they may be the only under engineered component on a Cub..... With the steering box tune-up that I'm planning, I'm going to convert to heim based tie rod ends also. Thanks to Terry for the research.
My 129's biggest front end load is the QA-42, and we don't have a particularly dusty/sandy environment, but in the 21 years that I've had it, I've probably replaced at least six or eight of the stock tie rod ends. Quiet honestly, I think they may be the only under engineered component on a Cub..... With the steering box tune-up that I'm planning, I'm going to convert to heim based tie rod ends also. Thanks to Terry for the research.
Thomas L., I was able to spend a few minutes working on the parts 107 to get the release lever removed, if you still need one send me an email with your mailing address and I'll send it out. Unfortunately the plastic bushing, (part #14 in the exploded view drawing below) where the rod passes through the frame was broken so hopefully you have one.
The parts in the photo above are parts #8, #9 and #10 in the drawing below.
Art A, do you recognize the color of the parts above? They are from that "UPS brown" parts 107 chassis that I got from you.
The parts in the photo above are parts #8, #9 and #10 in the drawing below.
Art A, do you recognize the color of the parts above? They are from that "UPS brown" parts 107 chassis that I got from you.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Kraig-
That looks like the brown A.K.A. "U.P.S. CUB" to me.
I'd post a picture of it, but I don't have one here right now...
Thomas L-
Just so YOU know, because I know Kraig won't say it, but he was sicker than a dog this weekend and still got the part pulled for ya. Way to go Kraig!
What can BROWN do for you?....
LOL!
That looks like the brown A.K.A. "U.P.S. CUB" to me.
Thomas L-
Just so YOU know, because I know Kraig won't say it, but he was sicker than a dog this weekend and still got the part pulled for ya. Way to go Kraig!
What can BROWN do for you?....
LOL!
KENtuckyKEN
Let me run this by you and you tell me what ya think. I hate the thoughts of drilling thru frame so I was thinking of finding or making a pedal assy that bolts to foot pad thru existing 4 hole's and cable actuated over to where linkage hooks to hydro plate at trans and leaving brake rod attached for parking on hills. would I even need a damper if I'm using a cable? And hooking to plate at hydro which has factory damper spring on it. Thanks Jim
Man, here's something you don't see everyday!
