Archive through March 16, 2007

[sblunier]

Yes, you can pull a front tire off the ground while plowing...if it's hooked up good and the plow is really in the ground, the left front can start to rise. Seems to happen more on 82 series with the lighter front ends, but can happen on others under the right conditions.

Andy, I don't think that will be an issue for you with a diesel...lots of weight up front.

My 782 has gotten "a little light" on the front end on occasion, but nothing too bad.

If you can get to the point where the tractor is just getting light on the front end at just about the same time the rear wheels are starting to slip excessively, and the engine is lugged way down, you have reached the point of "ultimate traction and production" for a given tractor....it won't pull any harder, hook up any better, or make more power......the ultimate eatin' machine!!!!!

 

[bcook]

I know some guys like buying tires from websites....

And I know some guys don't like front AGs......

But I always get my GT tires from a 'local' dealer! I stop in after work, and tell him what I'm looking for, and he tells me the price. The next day I drop off the old tires/rims at lunch, and pick up the new meat after work...24 hour turn around...No shipping charges..no waiting...no fussin' and cussin' at the old/new tires...no old tires laying around to get rid of, etc.

The last time I bought GT tires was a set of 4 ply Carlisle Super Lugs (16-6.5-8 fronts, and 23-10.5-12 rears). Mark dismounted the old tires and stems and junked them, installed new stems, and mounted the new tires...$200 TOTAL

While I was paying him, he had one of his guys load the tires/wheels in my truck!

 

[sblunier]

Bill,

Good point, and for the most part I do the same. Several places around here can get prices similar to the online places without the headache.

Tri-ribs from Tucker Tire on Ebay are one exception.

 

[dbellamy]

Hi guys,from the west coast.The ground is nice and soft here from all the rain and my shop is outdoors but today I got my tiller mounted on the 109 & tilled for my first time. What a blast!
got some bugs to work out tomorow but can'y wiat to get at it some more.

on the tire topic I looked for tires for my O and went with the 23 deg Stones and am pleased, still need to get em dirty though.

Thanks for helping me so much by answering peoples ??? and the info in the faq's
cheers from Island
Don

 

[eford]

I've popped wheelies before in the furrow. I had my plow set wrong and it dug in way too deep tho. Front weight is not a bad idea, but I agree with Steve, that diesel is plenty. What a time to be up. I'm so used to 3rd shift I wake in the night and stay up on the weekends! Oh well.
Kraig, I know what you mean, I'm in it for the hobby too, that's why guys like you are not found often. Keep it up!

 

[dhodgson]

ive checked FAQ a 147 is called a hydro because its hyd drive right. Why is a 149 not called a hydro?

 

[thill]

Where does one add fluid to a hydro?
When is it considered full?
Does overfilling damage anything?

Thanks!

 

[eford]

Overfilling does hurt it. The plug on the back of the trans is where you fill and fill it to. Do a filter change too if you haven't.
A 149 is a hydro as far as I know.

 

[bcook]

Doug: Here is a list of IH built Cub Cadet hydrostatic transmission tractors.
123, 105, 125, 107, 127, 147, 109, 129, 149, 169, 1250, 1450, 1650, 682, 782, 982


Tom: With the age of these tractors, sometimes seals, and gaskets will leak/drip...after a while of this, the fluid level is low. Also, it is recommended to change the hydro filter once a year...thus the fluid needs topped off.

There are 3 different methods of filling/checking the fluid level.
On the Originals, you take out a pipe plug behind the shifter plug to fill the transaxle, and take out a pipe plug on the side of the trans...when the Hytran starts to come out the hole on the side, it's 'full'.

On the CI gear drive and hydro transaxles, a recessed square head pipe plug is removed from the rear cover plate. This is the place where the Hytran is filled...when the Hytran runs back out of the hole, it's 'full'

On AL transaxles, there is a filler tube under the seat. The cap for the filler tube is also the dipstick. Fill with Hytran until your in the 'full' range on the dipstick.

 

[eford]

Well said Wild Bill! I'm still tired even tho I've been up since 2. It's guys like this who are thorough in explinations that help out alot. Me, well, you saw my post simple and vague.

 

[bcook]

Actually I screwed up...

I typed "pipe plug behind the shifter plug to fill the transaxle"

What I meant to say was 'pipe plug behind the shifter -plate- to fill the transaxle'

 

[jstouffer]

KENtuckyKEN

Sorry it took so long to get back to you I only have access to internet at work and that's only when i'm not working which isn't often. That picture of damper you posted looks like the way to go little simpler set up. I remember seeing video of cadet with foot pedal operation few years back I'm thinking it was yours but i've slept few times since then so may be wrong. Did you have one set up with cable control to foot pedal or was it linkage. Thanks for any and all help KentuckyKen. Jim

 

[kweaver]

James - it may have been my video. I had a link for it once when I had my website up. Here's a pic of the junky 127 pedal, it's shaft operated.

See why I was doing a new cable version

 

[bbowman]

Need a little help.Got a snowplow that came from a NF,putting it on a WF.I have the correct subframe,but the lift arm on the plow contacts the right front corner of the tractor,and the lift arm seems to be to long.I was informed that the plows would interchange as long as I used the correct subframe.Is a BFH and torch the easiest fix,or is there a better answer? BTW,what is the correct length for the lift rod?Thanks,Bob.

 

[bbowman]

Previous post should say "lift rod seems to be too long"!AAAAARGH!

 

[bmcmeen]

Bobby B. -

That's because...

...the bracket on the blade to which the lift rod attaches is specific to the series of tractor. So just because you have a WF subframe doesn't complete the package - you need a WF bracket as well.

So, there is no "correct" lift rod length as this is not a factory setup. You'll have to bend your own.

 

[kweaver]

It's ALIVE

Bryan haven't you had to blow or push any snow this year ? ... not seen any pics from ya!

 

[bmcmeen]

KENtucky -

I've pushed for the past 2 years, no thrower.

All the pushing seemed to occur at night when I got home from work, so there weren't a lot of opportunities for decent pics.

 

[kweaver]

oh well ... you just don't post pics like you use to ...

 

[rbedell]

Bobby B:

To add to what Byran said, here is an enhanced drawing.

The lift arm is different between the NF & WF application. The WF arm is longer in width.

Again as Byran stated, the lift rods vary with Cub and application.