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Archive through March 16, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Roland -

Who said???
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KENtucky -

An 8 hour day with a couple hours of commuting at both ends eventually adjusts one's priorities. Add to that working the weekends at our store in the local historic village and they get adjusted even more
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Bryan - I hear ya on readjusting - I'm thinking strongly on readjusting my shop and selling a bunch of "use it to build something someday" inventory since this last bout with my back. Usally 2 weeks and it gets better , this time 4 weeks and it's worse today. I may have to fill up the Forsale section on here ... some "on topic" some not.

Roland - Wouldn't it be "wider width" instead of longer in width ;)

James - If you need to knock around any ideas on the foot control I'll help if I can remember what I've forgot. I was this |-> <-| close to getting the cable version finished.
 
Bryan AND Roland; thanks for the info!.This is what I suspected.Now,off to the Want Ads!Thanks,Bob.
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Got the Tru Powers mounted today. 50lbs of fluid and 60lbs of plate on each wheel. What kind of air pressure should I start out at?
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Didn't the Tru Powers sometimes have a reputation for being a little on the small side? These are right on from what I see comparing them to Goodyear softracs.


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Bobby B:

Here is a suggestion to aid in your blade setup.

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Drive your Cub onto some 2x4 laying flat. Let the blade touch the floor. Place your lifting mechanism (Armstrong or Hydraulic) to the most forward position (down). Measure the distance between Point A and Point B.

Now numerous rods can be used. I personally use 3/4" Square Tubing. Then I drill 1/2" holes at my distance points and use 1/2 x 1-1/2" clevis pins with "hairpin" clips.

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You can make a lift rod for less than $10 and in about 15 minutes. Maybe a tad longer if you go to the extent of painting the lift rod.
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Well, Fellas,,,,
I'm now the happy owner of my third Cub!
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I first obtained a 125 3 years ago, then a 129 a year later,,,,now a 127! Referring it's serial # to the info located in the FAQ section, it was produced in October 1969. It seems to be a fairly nice 127, though no show winner it is in better shape than my 125 or 129. Now I'll see about removing & cleaning out the nasty fuel tank & sediment bowl, change out the motor oil, install a good battery & a new spark plug then see if it'll start!

The main reason I decided on getting it was because it seems to be very original and hasn't seen too much "cobble-job" repair work in it's life. The most obvious repair it will require is to it's hydra-static actuator F/R lever. The lever will likely need to be replaced since it's missing it's set-screw and the small, threaded set-screw hole appears to be quite corroded & possibly stripped out. Another repair what will be required is to the hood. One of the two bolt holes at the front of the hood is broken out so when you open it it doesn't just pivot there, it want to lift off. Yeah, it has also collected a couple of scrapes on the paint, a small dent on the left rear corner of the fender, but other than that, all I've noticed it needs is one hood spring 'keeper' latch, a new S/G belt, a new front PTO release button and a proper gas tank cap! It still has it's original grill & spring clips and the rims aren't even rusty!

The 42" mower deck is surprisingly solid and DANG heavy - likely due largely to the cast-iron nose piece on the beast! It's MUCH heavier than the decks that were on my 125 or 129. It isn't froze up and isn't corroded to the point of holes - so I think it'll be fine for a while!

The tires appear to also be original; hard and old, but still holding air just fine. The front tires are surprisingly narrow.... they're Goodyear 4.80/4.00 on an 8" rim.
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The rear tires are the standard Goodyear turf 23/8.5 on an 12" rim.

Wish me Luck! Ryan W
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P.S.
A friend of mine stopped over this AM and was checking it out as I was unloading it. He asked me, "So does it run good?". To which I responded, "Don't know. We never started it." He looked at me like I must be INSANE to buy a tractor that I don't know it it'll even start!
I tried to explain that I didn't want to dink-around trying to start it when I KNEW that it had old, stale fuel in it & stale motor oil (likely containing condensation water in it) that trying to run it like that would only be bad for it.... that the best thing to do would be to take the time & clean it out first, THEN put some spark to it. I've got faith that it'll start - even though it's been sitting for a while, but just from the good, solid condition that it's in, I'm confident it'll result in being a good working Cub!
 
Ryan- My first was a 127 in 1981. I used it for 19 years mowing and throwing snow with minimal repairs (still has original rear tires) until I learned on this site it's OK to have more than one. Since 2000 I have bought 4 running and 1 parts tractor. The 127 , semi-retired now that it has help with the chores , is still my favorite.
 
Ryan, it won't be long before you have 4. Cub fever lasts a long time!!
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I use Carlisle 23 X 10.50 - 12 TRU POWERS in th rear with no weights, and stones 16 X 6.50 - 8 tri ribs in the front, and they haven't failed me yet.
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Heim Joints vs Tie Rod ends. For those of you who are thinking of installing Heim Joints.

I bought Heim joints from McMaster-Carr, shown on the left, and picked the ones with grease fittings. I wanted to replace the stock tie rod ends shown on the right. Turns out the Heim joints with a grease fitting do not swivel enough to go from the steering box to the front left spindle. It also requires an separate bolt to install which holds the Heim joint too close to the linkage throwing off the geometry of the tie rod linkage. After these Heim joints didnt work I searched for tie rod ends I found the Heim joint with a fixed bolt in it, shown in the center. It doesn't come with a fitting but they are easy to install. The interesting thing is that when you search for Heim joints it doesn't show the one in the middle.

So, if you plan on installing Heim joints do a search for tie rod ends and pick the Heim joint with the stud installed.
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Glen,
Hook on to a pallet with 6 2/3 sq. of shingles and see if they let ya down with no weight.
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I think I'll stick with my 26's with 144 pounds on each side for good measure.
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Oh, you see that crease in that left rear fender!
Bigger tires keep DA neighbors from backing into the fenders too!
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Charlie,
The ball is the same size, the shoulder is shorter. I think they are extra heavy duty, more shoulder for the stress. After I realized the joint didn't swivel enough I re-visited the website. They sell the joints with different swivel specs. Go figure, I thought they were all the same.
 
Terry B.,

I've only had my Cub for a few years now. With that being said, I don't have too bad of luck with the standard tie rod ends; they seem to work fine for what I ask of them.

Why do you feel the need to upgrade? Do you run your tractor in lots of dust/dirt or in freezing rains/ice where maybe the standard tie rod joint gives you problems?

It's obvious to me that the heim-style joint appears to be a stronger joint & I can also see that having a grease zert would be a benefit over a non-greaseable joint.

Can you share the McMaster-Carr part # for your preferred Heim joint with a fixed bolt in it?
Ryan W
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Heim Joint Tie rod end replacement part number.

McMaster-Carr part #60645K441
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Ryan,
Its for this. Stock tie rods will only last a year or so.
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Hey guys,
Check out what I ran across on eBay tonight. Here is the item number #290094407882 . I just thought that anyone looking for a dumper/hauler Cub Cadet that lives near TN might be interested in it. If nothing else, it is an interesting take on modifying a Cub. I thought I had seen everything. LOL.
 
funny how a 107 STILL has the orginal 12 horse Kohler in it ... it'd only take 20 acres to tun it around !
 
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