• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 15, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jhokinson

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Messages
80
displayname
Justin Hokinson
now that the snow has completely gone, its time i drag my first of two fun project tractors out of storage. one is my second 1966 123, its fate was going to be a parts tractor until i got an engine to repower it with. the new engine is a 2000 briggs vanguard 11hp(it has the genset crankshaft, lowoil shutdown, and fixed throttle speed so its about useless for anything else). my second project is a '67 or '68 model 72 with a bad k241. over the weekend i bought a k141 to drop in so i can use the tractor for shows and make it look correct. this new engine has the under-flywheel mag, but i might change it to battery ignition so the thing is right and so i can use the lights.

i only have pics of the 123 currently. this is a before and hopefully after shot when im done. i guess this is the last time it can be shown on this board, it will have to go on the better than OEM now, even though i dont know if it really will be better, just different lol

before
186804.jpg


hopefully after(red is IH red, black semi-gloss)
 
size came out strange. had to fix it. this is what i hope the project im calling the vanguard 123 will look like
(red is IH red with semi-gloss black)
186808.jpg


before is below
 
Justin: If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion (123 addict, here) if you could start your own thread (like Don T. did with his 1512 D for Dog) I know you'd have at least 1 follower. (Isn't this the way people start to get elected?) Looking forward to your progress!
biggrin.gif
 
Frank: should i start it in the CCC/MTD section as that is the only place to start a thread? it may be out of place, but this 123 will be compared to a "normal" one lol
 
lucas donald jones
i built the loader from plans I bought online from PF engineering and it made a great tractor

Frank c
I have used mayonnaise to remove decals. It has an acid in it that will attack the glue and soften it. Acetone works also but will affect some colors. You just have to keep it moist and it will take some time.

I sent out an email to see if I can find a set of decals for a tractor and hope I can get them. I might have to make my own. lol
 
Say it, Charlie. Where should Justin start his own thread on this procedure? And...isn't his pictured red a little dark? I vote for Cooked Lobster Red. Now, about the hood decal removal subject...I'm heading for a hood and a heat gun.
bubbly.gif
 
Frank C.
He really isn't altering anything but the paint, so he's just fine right here.
I like pictures ya know.
beerchug.gif
 
well charlie, im doing an engine swap to a briggs vanguard 11hp. paint is just to make it look good and stand out at the shows or occasional garden tractor pull
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

say did I not see where you posted that YOU were make a "tiger cub". Hows that going ? What did I ever do with my time before I found this site ?
1a_scratchhead.gif


Charlie

yikes.gif
buttrock.gif
groupwave.gif
 
HOOD DECAL REMOVAL
They've lived thru over 40 years of whatever weather you can think of. They've lived through several hours in the electrolis tank. Is a little heat really the answer to removing them?
1a_scratchhead.gif


186814.jpg


Don T.: I think Matt G. is headed that way, but is trying to keep it a secret.
bottom.gif

Or MAYBE it's someone else I'm thinking of.
biggrin.gif
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I used a heat gun to remove decals ,but you have to watch the heat as they will bubble and then can`t be reused.Heat them and then with a pudy knife just scrape them off if removal is all you want, BTDT
 
Todd M.

I posted about the ball bushing and getting it out. I actually have two I'm working with, one came out race and bushing but the other did like you mentioned. It's been soaking but I think it's rusted to the inner sides so cutting is about my last option. I thought about making a pull punch with sort of a fish hook end that would catch the race just enough but I guess cutting and moving on would be the best.

Thanks for the input....Wayne
 
OK, I'll give you the heat and thank you, but don't expect to save the decal unless it's in awfully good shape to start with (and maybe not even then).
186818.jpg

...and P.S. I hit it from underneath the decal and Jeanne's chair is still OK.
biggrin.gif

Don T. (and others): Poke me now and then about the Tiger Cub. The 123 frame is in the cellar. It'll be warm down there next winter and I've got enough parts to build it, just not the painting skills.
bash.gif
 
Frank C.
I guess I should have mentioned heating only the back side and VERY SLOWLY and then using a single edge razor blade to slide under the edge and work your way along the decal.
It takes a long time, BTDT and finally figured out, only the dealer sticker style decals should be or can be saved, BTDT too.
thumbsup.gif
 
NOW you tell me! (Joking). I hadn't meant to save these decals, but was pretty perplexed on how to get them off the hood. Snowball's chance of a contest for a new set of decals?
asthanos.gif

OK, I did it. I Googled asthanos and found it's a German clipart meaning "bad rabbit". I felt that.
beerchug.gif
 
Marty,
greenthumb.gif


FWIW, When I put new registration decals on the ATV or snowmobile, I use a hair drier to heat the decal then pick a corner and start lifting, keep the decal and surface warm and they peal right off, they do stretch a little but I'm not planning on reusing them. After the decal is off I use some rubbing alcohol to clean the surface. Seeing as I usually end up doing this in the fall and it's cool out, I use the hair drier to warm the surface and then place the new registration decal.
 
Have to agree with Kraig, when I was in the tool buisness I had remove ALL the decals from my tool truck (van) a heat gun or hair dryer works great!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top