Archive through March 09, 2012

[sblunier]

My modified 12" Brinly with high clearance beam, notched rolling cutter, and 30# of weight. I can pull this at 5-6 mph and +8" deep, at those speeds and depths the 30# makes the plow much easier to adjust and pull (flatter point = less draft, better furrow)

 

[hydroharry]

Hey - what happened here? Ain't no one up this mornin'? (Oops, under edit, I see Mr. Plow is up. Hey give us your feelings on the 169 vs. 1650)).

Dennis F - still hoping you'll address Bill J's question on why you prefer the 169 over the 1650. I just mentioned the overall differences. I thought you and others would post why you prefer some of these differences, like not having the ISO-mounts, not having the electric PTO, not having the side panel engine enclosures, not having the muffler box with the front exhaust - and why you prefer a solid drive shaft coupling vs. the rubber rag joint on the 1650. I can't say if I like 169 over the 1650. Although the 169 is the only unit I kept my very 1st tractor was a 1450 so I may be partial to having the hydro speed control lever set up for right hand use vs. the left hand set up of the 169 - but heck, as long as you're moving forward, getting some seat time, and smelling that Kohler K - I'm loving it!!!

Scott T - the engine is a different color than you posted the other day. I see it must be in the tractor now, and I see a S/G mounted to it. Whens the day you're gonna light it up?

Kraig - Oh Great One - Keeper of the Photos - what's up? Still waiting on that pic of the Scout with Bill J. No fair air brushing - only IH would do that.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they do have their differences)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, it's going to be a long wait...

I'd take a 169 over a 1650 any day. Here's my reasons; I prefer solid mounted engines, mechanical PTOs, S/Gs, left hand Hydro controls, no side panels and no muffler box. The 1650 probably has a better drive shaft setup but that's easy to adapt to a 169.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Harry, I have attached a few pictures of my bearing locking collar and drive hub pully. My reason for this tear down is a broken rod in the engine. It looks like when it gave way the rod dented the bottom of oil pan and looks to have even cracked it a bit. But it still has oil in it, so no leak. I was able to pick up this old cub cadet 109 for cheap so decided to give it a try and see if I can salvage an old cub with my fever!! It has been soaking with wd-40 and pb blaster on and off over the last few days. This is my first attempt at a cub tear down so may be asking a bunch of stupid questions. I have not tried to unlock the collar yet. It sure doesnt look like there is much room at all between bearing/lock collar/pully on my crankshaft. Every component is stuck tight right now. So a few blows with a hammer and punch one way or the other should loosen the locking collar?? Does the locking collar have to be loose for the bearing to come off or do I need to do that first? I thought the hard part of this process was going to be getting the set screws out, but they came out much easier than I expected.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Sorry looks like I didnt resize my picture right!! Made everything 2 darn wide. Hit me with a big STICK!! Am still very low on the learning curve with this technology.

 

[hydroharry]

Terry G - (under edit - hit your return key after you download each pic. If you're still within the edit time limit you can go back under edit and still hit the return key after each pic listing). Yes the collar has to be loose for the bearing to come off. Suggest you just tap on the basket pulley in the area close to the crankshaft so it slides back towards the block about 1/8". Then you can get the locking collar to rotate so it's free of the bearing and follow my other suggestions. By the way, your basket pulley appears to be grey/silver colored (no yellow paint) so it must be a replacement. This should mean everything will come apart fairly easy since someone already did this before.

Kraig - Oh Great One - Keeper of the Photos - how long is a long time? Before the next IH CC model comes out?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[sblunier]

Harry,

1650 vs. 169....

I've owned and run both, my opinion is basically what Kriag said below...100% agree......IF I only had to pick between those 2 models.

....My real opinion: Skip both and find a 782 dual hyd (with Mag 18) or 1812 for a std sized work tractor......

OR downsize to a 149 and avoid many of the 169 headaches.

Better yet, find a 2072 and just keep smiling

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, seeing that I have no photos of Jim or his old Scout, it's going to be a long wait. However, if Jim were to dig through his photos album and scan then email...

Terry, *if* the locking collar was installed in the proper direction (counter-clockwise), you will want to tap it clockwise to loosen it. Tap being a rather subjective term when used to refer to loosening a locking collar, might only take a rather gentle tap or it could require a rather forceful tap as would be provide by Don Tanner and his Multi Angle Swing Press™ aka BFH.

Oh, and if you have not already done so, be sure to remove the setscrew from the locking collar.

 

[kmcconaughey]

What Steve B. wrote or:

 

[jharvey]

Anybody but me notice the cub guys puckered up on the edge of their seats while the green guys sit square and comfy while plowing? Better design? Hhmmm...

 

[sblunier]

....Wouldn't go that far......

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Thanks for all of the tips!! I will give it a try when I get home 2nite. My locking collar did not have a set screw in. So must have gotten locked by previous owner and either the set screw was not replaced or fell out during normal operation. I will keep ya posted on my progress.

 

[jbaker]

I have not owned a 1650 or a 169(someday) but have had a QL and 1x9 I would prefer 169 over 1650 for the same reasons as Kraig.

If only had the 169 came with front hydraulics, we would have the Grand Champion of garden tractors....

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jerry, it's not just an Cub Cadet thing, more of an individual setup and/or operator thing. I've seen Cub drivers sit straight and I've seen JD drivers hang off the side.

Must be getting close to Plow Day season...

 

[stanner]

HH
I have a lot of honey-doo stuff on the plate right now... I do need to allot a few hours a week on it... I really miss driving that thing... It's been 5 years, 11 months, and 8 days now..

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY H. - Kraig is exactly correct, whether you set centered in the seat or off to the left is a set-up thing, If you run some extra weight on the land wheel, or just WAY TOO much weight completely, you can sit centered. A CC is so narrow the angle the tractor sits when in the furrow really upsets it's balance side-to-side.

I will say one thing about plowing fields with a garden tractor, a couple hours is all I want to do. A full size tractor with BIG tires, long wheel base, plenty of weight rides OHHH so much better. And after a couple hours that makes a HUGE difference.

Also for plowing I prefer a GD, pick the gear, turn into the furrow, drop the plow, jab the throttle up to cruising speed and GO!!!!.

HARRY - What Kraig & everybody says is the reasons I prefer a 1X8/1X9 over a Q/L. The WF tractors have a stiffer frame, resist twisting, plus the removable center frame cover makes servicing the hydro SO much easier. I had a 129 from about 1990 till 2005 or '06. I'm losing the #70 this spring, and I'll probably get a 129 or 149 to replace it when I find the right deal. It took me 3-4 years to find my 982, I keep my tractors a l-o-n-g time so it pays me to be picky when I buy another one.

 

[bjamison]

OK - I think I may have hit the hornet's nest with the 1650/169 question... Even my Wife ain't happy with the purchase

Maybe I ought to go back to my trusty other color tractor...

Or I could put the blinders on with this 1650 and keep tinkering with the moldboard plow

while I wait on a few more parts before I put the 1650 back together...

 

[stanner]

Bill J,
This is where you tell her that you're fixing it up for her to use in her flower garden....

 

[wshytle]

Denny-

Why are you losing the 70 this spring? I must have missed that part.

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE - SON is "claiming" it. He really wants the FARMALL M but I don't have a mower big enough to fit it.

I still have to rebuild the K241 for it and weld up some holes in the frame Dad drilled, shoot a quick coat of 483 yellow on it. We repainted the hood about 1-1/2 yrs ago and have new decals, lights & wire harness for it. He wants a set of fenders made for it like I have on my 72 but don't think I'll have time to make those. I could buy the steel and make them to fit my 72 and I know they'd fit the 70.

He wants different tires for it but not sure what to do there, I'd put 23-8.50 Firestones on it if I could get them, the 23-10.50's would be a bit wide for working with only a 38 inch deck. I'll haul it down to him with the 6-12 GY pizza-cutter turfs on it, if he wants something different he can do that!

I'll miss the ole 70, been a good grading & spraying tractor. I was looking forward to getting the K241 in it and using it to mow a couple times a year. With the slow 2nd I could mow a lot quicker with it than using my 72 with the fast 2nd but mowing in 1st. Years ago when the 70 was new I could mow almost everywhere in 2nd except for a few places the crab grass grew too fast.