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Archive through March 09, 2012
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I have been out of the groove so much, been down in back and hips with old arthur he is killing me right now I will try to keep up how to do things and learn again men. Appreciate all the help and any advise on what to do on the 582, polish good an change oil and check rear end fluid and mow I hope!
I was looking at my pictures and noticed that mother nature gave me a bird dropping on the 582. I have here a few pictures of my 102 going to restore.I have correct muffler and clutch cover.Headlights are in another cub 102 I have.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Joe L - that's a new one for the book. I had never even thought of that yeller n'white advantage over red - those attributes of Mother Nature don't show on pics of white hoods (but should still be removed quickly).
If you get a chance I'd like to see some inside shots of the engine in your 582. It's one you don't often see on here and I wondered how IH set it up. Also, your soon to be restored 102, with the Mother Nature attribute free hood, appears to have a freshly painted engine. Give us some further details on it. Your current "see in the dark" 102 looks like it has some tired spindles or wheel bearings along with the mis-matched tire treads, but I'm sure she still rolls along nicely (in neutral), so I'm wondering why she may become a donor to the look alike? We just need a little more info to fill in these blanks for our discussions.
Bill J - I assume you still meet the minimum weight qualifications as spec'd by IH - I believe the Operators Manual identifies minimum 150lb rider. Otherwise, many of the operating features, options, etc., may not perform well. Adding weight to other places on the unit will not necessarily provide the same performance as it would if placed on the seat. And another possibility for you is to somehow donate a shed to your neighbor, and then inform your wife you're visiting your neighbor to assist with his (can't be a her) newly acquired CC. Sometimes this works so you get seat time on your neighbors property, and better yet, get to use your neighbors unit on your property, which the wife will probably love.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but some parts are often exchanged for extended life)
If you get a chance I'd like to see some inside shots of the engine in your 582. It's one you don't often see on here and I wondered how IH set it up. Also, your soon to be restored 102, with the Mother Nature attribute free hood, appears to have a freshly painted engine. Give us some further details on it. Your current "see in the dark" 102 looks like it has some tired spindles or wheel bearings along with the mis-matched tire treads, but I'm sure she still rolls along nicely (in neutral), so I'm wondering why she may become a donor to the look alike? We just need a little more info to fill in these blanks for our discussions.
Bill J - I assume you still meet the minimum weight qualifications as spec'd by IH - I believe the Operators Manual identifies minimum 150lb rider. Otherwise, many of the operating features, options, etc., may not perform well. Adding weight to other places on the unit will not necessarily provide the same performance as it would if placed on the seat. And another possibility for you is to somehow donate a shed to your neighbor, and then inform your wife you're visiting your neighbor to assist with his (can't be a her) newly acquired CC. Sometimes this works so you get seat time on your neighbors property, and better yet, get to use your neighbors unit on your property, which the wife will probably love.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but some parts are often exchanged for extended life)
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Harry - This minimum weight figure might preclude anyone at my house from using my mis-understood, yet advanced engineered 1650. The fallout of this is that I would be the only one that could operate this fine machine...
On another note, I'm moving again today with the 44A deck rebuild. I've got the shell outside degreasing it and pressure washing for the next step - paint!
Thanks,
Bill
On another note, I'm moving again today with the 44A deck rebuild. I've got the shell outside degreasing it and pressure washing for the next step - paint!
Thanks,
Bill
dpbauer
Well-known member
Im back to announce... SUCCESS!!
I have now installed a new governor without pulling the crankshaft and camshaft.
1. I removed the oil pan a month ago to drain out the oil and inspect things. Everything looks pretty good... almost like this engine was rebuild like the previous owner said!
2. I removed the gas tank, the spark plug, and oil dip stick. When I turned the engine upside down, the weight balanced nicely on the gas tank support and the top engine plate.
3. I setup lights above and on the governor side to shine light THRU my target hole. This proved to be a blessing when the governor rod needed to find the hole in the crankcase.
4. I used a 12" pair of locking forceps to weave the new governor into to place. The biggest issue was getting the governor plate past the camshaft. It took a bit of weaving practice and then a total 2 minutes to get her into the pocket area.
5. I then DROPPED the governor rod when she was in the pocket area. I repositioned the forceps onto the inboard part of the rod to LIFT the outboard part of the rod into the hole heading out of the crankcase.
6. Then I grabbed the rod sticking out of the crankcase and pushed the inboard end into its hole.
The entire operation took me a month to figure out and a whooping FIVE MINUTES to complete! I took photos and can upload. IS the group interested in this being a FAQ? contact me, danWI
I have now installed a new governor without pulling the crankshaft and camshaft.
1. I removed the oil pan a month ago to drain out the oil and inspect things. Everything looks pretty good... almost like this engine was rebuild like the previous owner said!
2. I removed the gas tank, the spark plug, and oil dip stick. When I turned the engine upside down, the weight balanced nicely on the gas tank support and the top engine plate.
3. I setup lights above and on the governor side to shine light THRU my target hole. This proved to be a blessing when the governor rod needed to find the hole in the crankcase.
4. I used a 12" pair of locking forceps to weave the new governor into to place. The biggest issue was getting the governor plate past the camshaft. It took a bit of weaving practice and then a total 2 minutes to get her into the pocket area.
5. I then DROPPED the governor rod when she was in the pocket area. I repositioned the forceps onto the inboard part of the rod to LIFT the outboard part of the rod into the hole heading out of the crankcase.
6. Then I grabbed the rod sticking out of the crankcase and pushed the inboard end into its hole.
The entire operation took me a month to figure out and a whooping FIVE MINUTES to complete! I took photos and can upload. IS the group interested in this being a FAQ? contact me, danWI
dpbauer
Well-known member
P>S>
I can see now why someone suggested you might be able to pull the camshaft only. In the parts motor, I drove out the rod that passes thru the camshaft and got it to move in a noticeable way. Problem with doing this in a built engine is the the flywheel and the clutch end thing had to be removed... I was close to pulling the crankshaft out already!
Good thinking tho! it was fun trying out the idea, danWI
I can see now why someone suggested you might be able to pull the camshaft only. In the parts motor, I drove out the rod that passes thru the camshaft and got it to move in a noticeable way. Problem with doing this in a built engine is the the flywheel and the clutch end thing had to be removed... I was close to pulling the crankshaft out already!
Good thinking tho! it was fun trying out the idea, danWI
dpbauer
Well-known member
and then...... Second SUCCESS!
I finally was able to drive the large pin out of the 125 front end. The rolled pin had metal jammed inside the pin causing the pin to be expanded on the end. I ended up drilling it out.
I finally found where the pin zerk was SUPPOSE to be.... the zerk being broken off. I got lucky when the end of the zerk caught on my tap and spun out nicely. I inserted a new zerk.
I thought I had screwed up the zerk hole because the zerk would not take grease! This got me thinking for abit.
I remembered someone here saying "HIT the pin HARD" and figured its worth a try. Got the wheels ever so slightly rubbing the ground. I used my 12" sledge and heavy punch. Pin moved ever so slightly. I ended up rotating the pin every few hits.
50 hits later and I see the issues. First, the pin is heavily gouged on both ends. Probably was locked on those edges. 2nd, rock hard grease was built up in the middle of the pin. No wonder it wouldn't take grease! The pin was probably glued in place.
Next I want to close the gap between the frame and the cast front end and reinstall with new pin. Thanks for all the assistance folks! danWI
I finally was able to drive the large pin out of the 125 front end. The rolled pin had metal jammed inside the pin causing the pin to be expanded on the end. I ended up drilling it out.
I finally found where the pin zerk was SUPPOSE to be.... the zerk being broken off. I got lucky when the end of the zerk caught on my tap and spun out nicely. I inserted a new zerk.
I thought I had screwed up the zerk hole because the zerk would not take grease! This got me thinking for abit.
I remembered someone here saying "HIT the pin HARD" and figured its worth a try. Got the wheels ever so slightly rubbing the ground. I used my 12" sledge and heavy punch. Pin moved ever so slightly. I ended up rotating the pin every few hits.
50 hits later and I see the issues. First, the pin is heavily gouged on both ends. Probably was locked on those edges. 2nd, rock hard grease was built up in the middle of the pin. No wonder it wouldn't take grease! The pin was probably glued in place.
Next I want to close the gap between the frame and the cast front end and reinstall with new pin. Thanks for all the assistance folks! danWI
