• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 07, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Terry-

I bought a small plastic compartment box of O-rings from HF and one of the sizes fits just about right for what you need. I think the box was around $6 and contains several sizes.
 
Crap!! I posted the wrong pic's!! That was just a trial fit. I know the PTO bottoms on the crank cuz I put a dab of grease on the end of the crank to test and make sure it was bottoming. I told Ya it was a long day!!!GRRRR

I have all the holes/slots lined up now and the friction disc sets about 1/8"-3/16" into the basket and the set screw holes are still exposed. If I pull the basket forward any more, the belts will REALLY be misaligned. Again, the C/S is the same length as the one on my 70.
 
David S., here's a photo from a service manual. Note the placement of the bearing, starter pulley/basket and PTO.

255145.jpg


BTW, note the nut on the bearing locking collar setscrew in the top photo. I forget who it was that had mentioned theirs had this recently.

Under edit: Hmmm, I just realized that the engine in the manual photos is a recoil start. Probably a model 70 or 71...

Under edit#2: Hydro, can you see the Philips head screws on the PTO?
happy.gif
 
Thanks Kraig. That's about the way mine looks now w/evrything in place. I also put the lock nut on the bearing collar. I see in that pic the set screw holes are not far enough in the basket to require the slots for access.

Thanks guys for all the input on this! I have learned a lot here....just hope I can remember it all if the needever arises!!

If I can find a 3 pt, I might just bring this little feller up to plow day....or maybe just tag it along for the ride in case anyone needs to drag their rig off the playing field!! Ha Ha!!

Dave S.
 
It was me that found the nut on the set screw in the locking collar. I honestly thought someone had Jerry rigged it but know better now. I've taken a couple others apart and guess they just didn't have em. Maybe it's optional? Thanks for the pics - they really help! Good luck everyone.
 
Terry
Jerry rigged, I think I've heard that before.

David
If the belt alignment becomes a problem shim the pulley forward on the S/G?
 
Hey Jerry - caught me off guard! How bout if we go with "Harry Rigged"! My guess is that Hydros 169 is all rigged up! And speaking of rigs that's a mighty fine one you've got the pic of on your profile. I haven't graduated to the wide frames yet - maybe when I grow up. Have a good Friday ya'll.
 
I'm gonna move the bscket forward enough to where it engages the clutch disc the way you guys think it should and get another picture and you will see how out of whack it really is

Dave
 
Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - they look like stars but then I know those hadn't been used back in the day (yes I know they are Phillips heads).

Jerry and Terry - It's supposed to be "Jury Rigged", and it used to happen often in Chicago, NYC, and some other famous places.

David S - WE WANT PICS! WE WANT PICS! WE WANT PICS!
Are you sure you actually got the clutch pulley "over" the bearing and up against the spring clip inside the clutch. Your clutch just doesn't look like you slide it all the way on against the bearing.
 
Regarding the fuel shut off, I always just go over to the parts store and find 2 small o-rings, I should remember to get the number of it...

On the PTO having that locknut, my 73 has it also.
 
Paul Bell told me to use 1/8 inch O rings on the fuel shut off. It's working fine with them. No leaks so far. And Hydro I remember the old days.Way back in 98 you helped me with a charging problem on my 147. Still the nicest tractor I own.
 
Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - sorry if my last post was a bit to direct
happy.gif
I was looking again at those last 2 pics, and see the recoil start. Did you also notice the points cover has the kill switch plunger? Was that the only way to stop the engine? I don't think it had a key with on/off did it?

Mike F - the locking collars you get now for the PTO bearings usually have just a short set screw so you can't use a lock nut. Do you think using a lock nut adds something? (there are no point deductions)

Kendall - thanks for remembering me, and glad I was able to help. I see in your profile it looks like you've added some others to your stable. Back in the day there weren't many of us, and like you and others I learned alot myself. If it weren't for this Forum my 169 would probably still look like this pic, but instead it looks like the pic in my profile (with all those IH pre and post production features).
255148.jpg
 
Harry, I like the idea of the locknut. If it wasn't there, I'd use a thread locker. Points won't help you if/when it comes loose. JMHO!
 
Harry,
Yes, the recoil start models (standard on the Original, 70, 71, 72, electric start was optional) had a off/on key switch. It was a different switch than what was used on the electric start versions. In the on position the switch was open allowing the magneto to function, in the off position the switch was grounded, to kill the mag. Model 73 was the only 7 hp model with electric start as standard, and the recoil start was not available.
 
Ken F., thanks for the info on the PTO kits for the 364 model snow blower. Appreciate it!
beerchug.gif
 
David S,

How about a picture of you S/G and the bracket.Is it possible it is on wrong?

This one does not have a S/G.

Here are some pics of my 72 to keep it interesting...

255156.jpg


255157.jpg
 
I finally got the 1650 back together and it started right away. Ran 5 seconds and died. So I checked the gas line and very little gas was getting through so I took it off and blew through it put it back together turned the gas on and it poured out. So I hooked it to the carb. and tried to start it again. Nothing, would not start. So I took the float bole off, bad idea I could not get the rubber gaskets on upside down. So I took the carb off, put it back together and reinstalled it. When I turned the gas on this time you could see the gas going through the filter. I turned the key and it fired right up? Could this have been an air bubble in both the line and the carb? I really didn't do anything but take it all apart and put it back together.
 
Lewis - Do you have to have a battery in that 72 since it's a pull start? otherwise what would give the coil juice to spark? Just curious.
 
No battery needed.It has a magneto behind the flywheel to make a spark just like an old lawn mower has.
The battery tray is a nice little beverage holder.
 
Well Ill be darned. I need some of those just to save on buying lawnmower batteries! Can you have lights on a pull-start Cub?
 
Back
Top