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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Bob-

I'd get some body filler and skim some of that over all of the pitted areas, and then sand it smooth. I would also do the same for the light pitting, as it takes less time IMO.

Edit: I'm not sure about that seat spring. Anything you fill that with might not hold up to the flexing that piece undergoes. You might want to look for a better one.
 
Bob, Have the parts either sand blasted or bead blasted clean, sand off the surface and fill the pits with body filler and sand smooth. The problem with using primer or spot putty is that it continues to shrink after you sand it. It will look good for a while and then the small pits will appear under the paint. Body filler is stable and will not shrink.
 
Bob, at places that have auto body products, look for a big yellow tube that says something on the order of scratch and shallow dent filler.(Red Nitro?) It is a dark red, toothpaste like material that you apply with a small rubber squeege. Dries real quick, and is easily wet sanded. Its main advantage is no mixing and much easier sanding.
Edit: Kevin may have a point about shrinkage of spot putty, but I found if left to dry(in the sun) it will be pretty well shrunk when sanded. JMHO
 
I had body filler in mind but I wasn't sure about the long term adhesion. Will the frame or any part on one these flex or vibrate the filler from the metal?
 
Years ago I have an autobody shop owner tell me...on bare metal, only plastic or primer. Putty may or maynot stay on with severe twisting (my cars never twisted like a Cub frame).
Main point, metal must be shiney clean or whatever you use will rust thru or break out.
 
Here is another stupid question, or as my grandad said no stupid questions just stupid people. The check valves on top of the hydro. Does one control forward and one reverse? Mine is sluggish forward (fluid and filter changed) but peppy as a spring rabbit in reverse. Also this is off topic but I cannot think of a smarter bunch of guys to ask. Does anyone have an idea of how the old propane conversions were done on carburated engines. You remember back before fuel injection in the Carter Administration.
 
Allen, when he said plastic he meant body filler. The seat spring will not be a problem with just pits as the paint withstands the flexing and it is closer to the surface. There is not that much flexing there for it to effect something so small. I have filled pits in the seat spring on my 100 and it still looks good 12 yrs later. I used to do auto body and paint for 10-12 yrs. for a living and continue to do it with about 35 yrs. total experiance. It would not bother me a bit to use filler..
 
Charles, When I first started up my 169 it would go forward but not reverse. I swapped out the left check valve and it worked fine. So I would guess you may want to look at the check valve on the right side
 
I wanted to say thanks to Matt G for allowing me to stop out at his place yesterday. His and him were a greta help. I had purchased a bunch of stuff from Kirk Engines and knew i could not put them on. On top of being a huge source of knowledge let me see his collection. Impressive to say the least. Thanks to the forum for allowing me to have an avenue to me great people with similar interest.
 
By the way my 782 runs and handles like a champ after Matt's work and Kirk Engine parts and advice. I can't say thanks enough.

Modifications yesterday:
super dual coil and point saver, premium plug wires, super steering upgrade, Kohler points, magnetic oil plug, Mobil 1 synthetic oil, Autolite Platinum plugs, rebuilt starter, and Marvelous miracle oil in the gas.

She's ready to take on the world now. I am excited to mow the lawn.
 
Guys sitting on your seat looking down at the hydro valves,Left hand side is forward movement and right valve is Revisiting .lol
 
I had my 122 ideling for about 10 min and it died it works fine at full half and just above low throtel but bring it down to low it kills it within 20 seconds it has ran fine for weeks carb is adjusted to spec carb is clean and gas goes through a filter what is wrong?
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Bob, on the auto body filler question, The main reason of bad body filler adhesion is improper use of the materials by the person doing the repair. I have seen work that was 30 years old still look great and I have seen work that was done last year coming apart. Spot putty is nothing more than super thick primer in a tube and in the body shop we used to call it butcher putty. If your surface is that rough before priming that you have to fill it again AFTER you prime it, Then you should not be priming it in the first place.
 
Ok guys, I need to find a deck for my 149. There is one on ebay, but I'm not sure I could justify the shipping and price of parts. Anybody know of a place in Colorado where I might be able to get a complete working deck? Need to have a reason for the wife as to why I got the tractor.
 
Jeff Baker,
No, that's not a hummingbird. I believe it is a shot or two of black paint. I must have had a piece hanging there that needed to be black.

Harry B.,
Thanks for the comments. Yes, it did take a LOT of time to complete the 128. A total of about 20+ hours just to shine up all those nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers, and screws. They were shined on a bench grinder with a Forney brand (#72751) brass wire wheel brush.
After priming, the engine was taped up all but the fins, then lightly painted black along with the flywheel. After drying a couple of days, the fins were taped up and the rest of the motor was painted yellow. The head was removed, cleaned, and LIGHTLY painted with aluminum paint (Dutchboy #3737).
The reason the engine was painted like this came from looking at any original 128 photos I could find in books or manuals along with reading all the info I could find on this model.

Kevin Hill, NICE work!
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Terry Reed, They're already there.
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Andrew,
Unless you like spending lots of $$$ on greedbay, try looking on Craigslist, or keep looking here in the classifieds.
 
How can someone be so heartless? This is listed in a local ad. The ad says it is a ten horse and runs real nice.... AND he bought it this color.

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Thanks Marty. You have a beautiful machine there as well. I plan on using mine for mowing when the shows are over and the newness wears off. I restored a 102 in 2001 and that is my current mowing tractor. This 169 is a lot faster for mowing my large yard.
 
Marlin: You're right, those rear wheels should be yellow!
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Besides, I wanted to show Jeanne your moose!
 

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