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Archive through June 25, 2013
- Thread starter jboelens
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
New addition to the implement fleet.....
48", built like a tank (very heavy with solid cutting edge), and perfect Cat 0 attachment points.........off of an older Kubota sub compact. Good deal too!!!
48", built like a tank (very heavy with solid cutting edge), and perfect Cat 0 attachment points.........off of an older Kubota sub compact. Good deal too!!!
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Bill J - ok, now you gone and done it. Your pics are on the previous page. I "think" (if I recall correctly) the sub-frame from your 122 snow blade will "not" attach to your 126. I believe if you attempt to install it the 2 ears sticking up on the sub-frame end up aligning with the slotted brackets of the quick attach latch welded to your 126 frame. My memory isn't for certain on this. What I do recall is there are 2 methods to attach your 122 snowblade sub-frame to the tractor. One is by using that mule drive bracket still bolted to the 122 frame. The other method is to use the IH "frame extenders" (as I believe they are called in the parts book) or "extention braces" as I believe they are called in the blade setup manual. I prefer the extension braces when I had my choice for use on a 122. You can leave them attached to the snow blade subframe when you remove it. The frame extenders or extention braces (same thing) are really just 2 pieces of flat stock steel with 3 holes drilled in each one. The top hole is used to bolt the extender to the tractor frame, and the other 2 holes are used to bolt the extender to the ears on the sub-frame. Have a look at the manuals section, and pull up the the No. 1 Set Up Manual for IH Blade. There is at least one pic showing each method.
Unfortunately there is no pic using this set up on a later tractor with a quick attach latch. I did look at the No. 2 Set Up Manual as well and it does not show either of these being used on a tractor with a quick attach latch (maybe Charlie left out a page but I don't think so). I think you're out of luck using your snow blade sub-frame on a 126. YOu can always try it. I seem to recall trying it by using a piece of round stock in the top hole of the ears on your sub-frame and then inserting it into the quick attach latch on the tractor - but I seem to recall this doesn't allow the sub-frame to be in a high enough position to use it. Hope this helps. I think you'll have to try it to see if it works, but I would keep an eye out for a narrow frame snowblade subframe for use with the quick attach latch narrow frame tractors.
Unfortunately there is no pic using this set up on a later tractor with a quick attach latch. I did look at the No. 2 Set Up Manual as well and it does not show either of these being used on a tractor with a quick attach latch (maybe Charlie left out a page but I don't think so). I think you're out of luck using your snow blade sub-frame on a 126. YOu can always try it. I seem to recall trying it by using a piece of round stock in the top hole of the ears on your sub-frame and then inserting it into the quick attach latch on the tractor - but I seem to recall this doesn't allow the sub-frame to be in a high enough position to use it. Hope this helps. I think you'll have to try it to see if it works, but I would keep an eye out for a narrow frame snowblade subframe for use with the quick attach latch narrow frame tractors.
nbextermueller
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- May 18, 2007
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- Nic Bextermueller
That is one sweet blade Mr. Plow. Finding one of those would really make me consider a Cat 0...
John B. I was hot on your heels!! Got my e-mail back from C/L right after I sent it as undeliverable due to the add having been pulled!!
LOL
Dave S.
LOL
Dave S.
BILL J. - A person would think a hydro like your 109 would be a good spraying tractor, rear mounted battery, easy forward & reverse and speed control. But what I found out was just the opposite. You have to be real careful how you attach the battery connections to the battery under the 109's seat. Not much room under there. The 12V pump connections on the spray tank I bought 20 yrs ago were small battery clamps. I cut them off and soldered on large ring terminals, I also lengthened the wire to power the pump and added a palm sized rocker switch into the power line so I can turn the pump on/off without having to reach back to flip the toggle switch on the pump. I also added an in-line fuse so in case the cord gets damaged I have a fuse to protect the battery & charging system of the tractor. All my CC's have car batteries except the 982. I use the repair battery post clamps with the two small 1/4" capscrews on them and attach the power lines to them. MUCH more secure and with the battery under the hood there's much more room and no chance of a clamp shorting out on the tractor and causing a fire or blowing up the battery.
Still leaves you one hand short to run everything, but if it works for you.... well that third hand & arm you have must come in handy for other uses too.
I set my 12V 14 gal. sprayer in my little cart, it's 32" wide 10-11" tall x 42" long. I have an additional 25-30 ft of hose on the hand wand and I just coil the extra hose up in the back of the cart. When I broadcast spray, I shorten the hose from the pump to about 4 ft and use two C-clamps to clamp my 4-nozzle spray boom on the back of the cart, boom even has a pressure gauge. I use the smallest 90 degree flat fan nozzles Tee-Jet makes in the four nozzles and I can hold 45-50 PSI at the boom for a good spray pattern. If I mix the spray stronger than the label directions, one quart of concentrate to 12-14 gal of water, half throttle, 1800 RPM in 1st gear is the perfect speed for proper spray coverage. The engine in a GD will hold RPM and ground speed MUCH better than a hydro will, which is what you need for successful spraying, even a 7 HP GD. Maybe you need to buy one more Cub Cadet?
Still leaves you one hand short to run everything, but if it works for you.... well that third hand & arm you have must come in handy for other uses too.
I set my 12V 14 gal. sprayer in my little cart, it's 32" wide 10-11" tall x 42" long. I have an additional 25-30 ft of hose on the hand wand and I just coil the extra hose up in the back of the cart. When I broadcast spray, I shorten the hose from the pump to about 4 ft and use two C-clamps to clamp my 4-nozzle spray boom on the back of the cart, boom even has a pressure gauge. I use the smallest 90 degree flat fan nozzles Tee-Jet makes in the four nozzles and I can hold 45-50 PSI at the boom for a good spray pattern. If I mix the spray stronger than the label directions, one quart of concentrate to 12-14 gal of water, half throttle, 1800 RPM in 1st gear is the perfect speed for proper spray coverage. The engine in a GD will hold RPM and ground speed MUCH better than a hydro will, which is what you need for successful spraying, even a 7 HP GD. Maybe you need to buy one more Cub Cadet?
I tend to agree with Dennis on the spraying part. I used my 129 with a similar type sprayer for years to maintain about 800 feet of trellis line for grapes. Pulling power from the battery isn't all what it is cracked up to be. I found it easier just to use a spare lawn and garden battery to power the sprayer, a full charge will give a good couple of hours of use, I found it easier just to pull the battery out of the cart when the pump starts to slow down than to deal with connectors between the cart and tractor.
I also found that you really need 3 hands to spray, one for the spray wand, one to steer, and one to operate the hydro lever. It is much easier with either a gear drive or foot controlled hydro.
I also found that you really need 3 hands to spray, one for the spray wand, one to steer, and one to operate the hydro lever. It is much easier with either a gear drive or foot controlled hydro.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Dennis and Bruce (and Bill J) - are you guys sure your Hydro tractors were in tip/top condition when you did your spraying? Seems to me if the Hydro is up to snuff it would hold constant speed much better than a Gear Jammer, oops Drive, that Bill J will encounter when he's going up and down those ole Virgin'y Hills. (I'm not not really trying to raise the Hydro vs GD debate again either)
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- Binder 1650
Dennis F (and everyone) - thanks for the tips. Yes - I've got my eye out for a 128. I'd like to give one a try.
The work around for the 109 hydro and third hand might be to have my Brother walk behind the sprayer with the spray nozzle while I relax and drive the tractor...
The work around for the 109 hydro and third hand might be to have my Brother walk behind the sprayer with the spray nozzle while I relax and drive the tractor...
HARRY - I suppose if you set the throttle lever WIDE OPEN, 3600 RPM and set the hydro lever at whatever point you get 1.6 MPH, or 140 feet per minute a hydro would be as constant in speed as a gear drive. But at $4/gal, do you really want to burn THAT much gas? Like I said, a 7 HP GD at half throttle has plenty of power to pull my cart & 125# spray tank.
I built a BIG sprayer 4-5 yrs ago. 55 gal plastic tank, Hypro 4100 series 4-roller pump, rebuilt by spray boom so I could use a better spray nozzle, less drift. I needed more pump volume so I could recirculate more spray because I was using a wettable powder to spray crab grass. And the powder tends to settle out of the spray mix, so you have to recirculate it. The roller pump made 7 GPM and I needed 2 GPM to the boom and recirculated 5 GPM. Wish now I'd have gone even bigger on the pump. But the 70 did a fine job pulling the over five hundred pound sprayer in the small cart. Still at half throttle.
But that still doesn't solve the need for a third hand/arm or a second body when spot spraying with a hydro. Like I said, one for the wand, one on the steering wheel, and I guess you could use your foot to run the hydro lever.
I built a BIG sprayer 4-5 yrs ago. 55 gal plastic tank, Hypro 4100 series 4-roller pump, rebuilt by spray boom so I could use a better spray nozzle, less drift. I needed more pump volume so I could recirculate more spray because I was using a wettable powder to spray crab grass. And the powder tends to settle out of the spray mix, so you have to recirculate it. The roller pump made 7 GPM and I needed 2 GPM to the boom and recirculated 5 GPM. Wish now I'd have gone even bigger on the pump. But the 70 did a fine job pulling the over five hundred pound sprayer in the small cart. Still at half throttle.
But that still doesn't solve the need for a third hand/arm or a second body when spot spraying with a hydro. Like I said, one for the wand, one on the steering wheel, and I guess you could use your foot to run the hydro lever.
So...how well does the "easy steer" kit really work? I'm thinking about letting my sister use my diesel to mow her lawn but the biggest issues is steering effort.
If it really does help then that might be the ticket. She's fine now at speed but creeping and in tight spaces she's having a tough time.
If it really does help then that might be the ticket. She's fine now at speed but creeping and in tight spaces she's having a tough time.
Matthew Kopishke
Tires and air pressure make a big difference in steering ability. Your diesel would have the easier three turn steering box now . I run v61 and find them easy to steer because on the small contact patch. I would try a little more air in the front tires first.
Tires and air pressure make a big difference in steering ability. Your diesel would have the easier three turn steering box now . I run v61 and find them easy to steer because on the small contact patch. I would try a little more air in the front tires first.
Matthew K.
Since we're doing off topic answers today.
Do the steering upgrade and tri-rib tires and forget it.
Since we're doing off topic answers today.
Do the steering upgrade and tri-rib tires and forget it.
Worked on the 147 PTO today. Fortunately all that happened was the nuts came off the back of one of the throw out levers, and then bounced around the bearing area. A bit of blue thread lock, some minor adjustments, and I'm mowing again. Thanks for the help.
Should the throwout levers (front mechanical PTO on a 147) be a bit loose when it's disengaged? They are loose enough that I can move them (a bit) but not risk them falling out. When engaged, they don't move at all. Does this seem normal?
Daniel G.
They should be tight at all times.
They should be tight at all times.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Daniel G - are you mixing up engaged and dis-engaged? The PTO clutch is dis-engaged when the lever with the fiber button is against the PTO center button putting pressure on the PTO spring so the pulley is not being turned by the crankshaft. The PTO clutch is engaged when the fiber button on the lever is not touching the PTO clutch center button which means the spring is in the release position and the pulley is being rotated by the crankshaft.
You mention "should the throwout levers be a bit loose when disengaged?" but I think you mean when the clutch is engaged - if so, it sounds to me like you have mis-adjusted the spring tension with the measuring tool provided in rebuild kit, or maybe there is a problem with the spring. You set the spring tension by tightening the first nut on each of the special screws, and you have to adjust them evenly and measure the spring tension with the tool in all 3 spring lever positions on the front of the PTO. If you get one mis-matched (to loose or to tight) the spring pressure will be uneven, and at least one of the spring levers will likely be loose, which could result in erratic clutch operation, scraping noise, wobbling rotation, etc. If you could post some pics we might be able to see something incorrect or the problem.
Dennis - if you don't burn enough gas it's harder to smell those Kohler fumes, and I'm addicted to'm. In Bill J's case, he can set the tractor speed a little faster and have his brother walk a little faster while he's getting seat time on the tractor - but keeping her in the straight and narrow. (Truth be told Dennis, I understand ya, and ya more than likely don't need that 3rd hand with a gear drive, especially since you can feather that pedal under your left foot to adjust your speed as well - which don't work on a Hydro, it only slows you down and you have to use your 3rd hand to push the speed control lever to speed up again.
Bill - just use a GD, and for _ _ _ sake, don't let any of the mist come back over the tractor and ruin what's left of your paint.
You mention "should the throwout levers be a bit loose when disengaged?" but I think you mean when the clutch is engaged - if so, it sounds to me like you have mis-adjusted the spring tension with the measuring tool provided in rebuild kit, or maybe there is a problem with the spring. You set the spring tension by tightening the first nut on each of the special screws, and you have to adjust them evenly and measure the spring tension with the tool in all 3 spring lever positions on the front of the PTO. If you get one mis-matched (to loose or to tight) the spring pressure will be uneven, and at least one of the spring levers will likely be loose, which could result in erratic clutch operation, scraping noise, wobbling rotation, etc. If you could post some pics we might be able to see something incorrect or the problem.
Dennis - if you don't burn enough gas it's harder to smell those Kohler fumes, and I'm addicted to'm. In Bill J's case, he can set the tractor speed a little faster and have his brother walk a little faster while he's getting seat time on the tractor - but keeping her in the straight and narrow. (Truth be told Dennis, I understand ya, and ya more than likely don't need that 3rd hand with a gear drive, especially since you can feather that pedal under your left foot to adjust your speed as well - which don't work on a Hydro, it only slows you down and you have to use your 3rd hand to push the speed control lever to speed up again.
Bill - just use a GD, and for _ _ _ sake, don't let any of the mist come back over the tractor and ruin what's left of your paint.
Nope, no confusion here. When I said "engaged" I mean when the implement is running, disengaged is when it is not. When the pto is dis engaged (allowing only the motor to turn) the levers are able to be moved when I pull on them. When the pto is engaged (running in this case, a mower deck) the throw out levers cannot be moved at all. I thought about it last night and it wouldn't matter how little the levers can be moved in the dis engaged position because it is stationery anyway; no risk of loosing them. In the engaged position they are tight and function as it should. The threads on the backside are showing equal amounts and I have two nuts on them as tight as I could get them. The PTO was overhauled with new parts; nuts, levers, center thrust button, etc. in april of 2012. (I think I am worrying over nothing but I thought I'd ask.)
