Archive through June 24, 2018
- Thread starter jsalatino
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Jonathan S.
Flip it over, drive them out and drive new ones in.
Flip it over, drive them out and drive new ones in.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Mike Frade, The 50A deck is too weak as built, and scalps bad without front casters. With a little work you can make a great mowing deck out of it. I have rebuilt both the 50A and 50C decks and have been very happy with them.
I used 1 inch square tubing and some flat iron to provide support for the rear wheels, and to attach front swivel casters, while strenghtening the deck. At the same time you want to align the 3 mowing blades correctly to get an even cut across the deck.
This 50C deck is still used by my son-in-law.
I used 1 inch square tubing and some flat iron to provide support for the rear wheels, and to attach front swivel casters, while strenghtening the deck. At the same time you want to align the 3 mowing blades correctly to get an even cut across the deck.
This 50C deck is still used by my son-in-law.
mgwin
Well-known member
Jonathan,
A set of roll pin punches really helps in removing coiled spring pins.
The tit on the end of the punch keeps the punch centered on the spring pin. This helps the spring pin to come out easier.
I bought an inexpensive set on greedbay, and it works great! Much better than a regular punch.
A set of roll pin punches really helps in removing coiled spring pins.
The tit on the end of the punch keeps the punch centered on the spring pin. This helps the spring pin to come out easier.
I bought an inexpensive set on greedbay, and it works great! Much better than a regular punch.
OK Gang, having a hell of a time here with a 44A deck installing NEW ST-745's. Replacing all three of them.
Can't seem to get the bearing a tight fit between the spindle housing cap and the spindle housing cone.
I put everything back together the same way it came apart and I can move the blade ends up and down on each end some. Enough to be evident that something is not right.
Could the caps be stretched enough to allow this movement when clamped together and installed on the deck?
That is the only thing I an come up with for an explanation.
Has anyone else had issues like this when rebulding these decks.
It is very evident that the old bearings are shot as they are noisy and I can detect sloppiness in the assembly just holding it in my hands.
Can't seem to get the bearing a tight fit between the spindle housing cap and the spindle housing cone.
I put everything back together the same way it came apart and I can move the blade ends up and down on each end some. Enough to be evident that something is not right.
Could the caps be stretched enough to allow this movement when clamped together and installed on the deck?
That is the only thing I an come up with for an explanation.
Has anyone else had issues like this when rebulding these decks.
It is very evident that the old bearings are shot as they are noisy and I can detect sloppiness in the assembly just holding it in my hands.
David S.
I have heard of guys getting some BIG shim washers when they find the lower cup and top plate are worn to take up the slop. I can't remember the size other than they got them from McMaster-Carr, and they were in the .007 to .010 range, but that would depend on how much play you have.
I have heard of guys getting some BIG shim washers when they find the lower cup and top plate are worn to take up the slop. I can't remember the size other than they got them from McMaster-Carr, and they were in the .007 to .010 range, but that would depend on how much play you have.
Charlie, That's what I was thinking too.
Could maybe cut some from thin tin maybe?
Or a small O.D. 'o' ring?
That should squash in there and hold it in place I would think. I just picked up some grade 5 carriage bolts & nuts to use for this as well.
At first, I thought it was a bad bearing, but...all three??!!!
Could maybe cut some from thin tin maybe?
Or a small O.D. 'o' ring?
That should squash in there and hold it in place I would think. I just picked up some grade 5 carriage bolts & nuts to use for this as well.
At first, I thought it was a bad bearing, but...all three??!!!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I remember someone posting on here years ago about bending the three tabs on the bearing cups towards the end of the spindle slightly so they would clamp the bearing tight. I have done that a few times and it works as long as the cups aren't too worn.
Shim washers made for the purpose would work too. An O-ring would do nothing at all and a soft metal shim would probably not last very long.
Next time you need spindles, I'd go with the newer style aluminum housing ones. They use the world's most common tapered roller bearing instead of that really expensive ST745 bearing/spindle assembly.
Shim washers made for the purpose would work too. An O-ring would do nothing at all and a soft metal shim would probably not last very long.
Next time you need spindles, I'd go with the newer style aluminum housing ones. They use the world's most common tapered roller bearing instead of that really expensive ST745 bearing/spindle assembly.
Finally got some seat time with the cubs tonight,I noticed on my 149 that it would bog down big time when I ran the hydraulic lift...after some trouble shooting I found that the throttle cable has come loose and the cylinder is snagging the cable and pulling it down to the slow position,tomorrow night I’m going to pull the gas tank off and refasten my throttle cable properly.I was impressed though I haven’t started my 149 in about a month,first shoot fired right up
mfrade
Well-known member
Richard C., I remember that deck. I thought it was Steve B. but it was you who had posted pics of that modified deck and it stuck with me. I am going to copy your mods almost to the letter. I'll share some pics when I get started and during of course.
Thanks for the picture and the update.
Thanks for the picture and the update.
lkortkamp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
What a coincidence. I just got done mowing with the 127 and the deck is pretty noisy and I want to fix it. The deck on my 149 is just as bad. I get on here and see you are already talking about it. Wunderfool!
Okay, one of the decks is tagged U-1111(the other deck the tag is missing but same measurement), measures 48" tip to tip. Is that a 48" deck or does it go by blade cutting width?
I found the parts on Charlie's website, but I wonder if I can actually dismantle the existing hubs and just replace the bearings? Of course they don't give you any easy way to get it apart, but wonder if I dismantle the bearing could I get it pulled apart? I suppose if I damage one trying I just have to buy it new anyway. I guess if I can make a bushing to support just the outer case(very thin) I could push the shaft out? Working at a machine shop has its perks.
What is the part number to the newer alum hub style? Pricing isn't that horrible for the old style, as I won't really ever have to replace them again so I don't mind spending the money once.
I need a tensioner pulley for both decks also. I don't want to hear any screaming bearings anymore!!
Okay, one of the decks is tagged U-1111(the other deck the tag is missing but same measurement), measures 48" tip to tip. Is that a 48" deck or does it go by blade cutting width?
I found the parts on Charlie's website, but I wonder if I can actually dismantle the existing hubs and just replace the bearings? Of course they don't give you any easy way to get it apart, but wonder if I dismantle the bearing could I get it pulled apart? I suppose if I damage one trying I just have to buy it new anyway. I guess if I can make a bushing to support just the outer case(very thin) I could push the shaft out? Working at a machine shop has its perks.
What is the part number to the newer alum hub style? Pricing isn't that horrible for the old style, as I won't really ever have to replace them again so I don't mind spending the money once.
I need a tensioner pulley for both decks also. I don't want to hear any screaming bearings anymore!!
I'm gonna set back and see how this spindle thing transpires before I voice my opinions and or options.
Larry K.
Cutting width.
Cutting width.
Larry, I suppose you could measure outside tip of each outside blade across. I imagine you don't have a stamped deck and probably is a 48. But a picture would help! I've only redone wheel spindles on a car, so I'm of no help on rebuilding them.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Larry-
The ST-745 bearings are not serviceable. The shaft is integral and cannot be removed, as far as I know. I have never heard of anyone removing it. I think the bearing races might be built into the shaft.
I don't have a part number handy for the aluminum housing spindles, but they are the current replacement for the 44/50" decks and newer, and were also used on a lot of different CCC machines with some minor variations in shaft length and pulleys, but the spindles themselves are basically the same. When my 44C needed new spindles, I used some spindles from a newer 48" lawn tractor deck from a 2000 series and shortened the shafts, and replaced the bearings and seals. The bearings for those are the same as the one of the front wheels bearings on millions of 60s-80s full-size Chevy cars, so they are cheap. Somewhere in my records I probably have the number for those too. Anyway, you can rebuild 3 of those for what one ST-745 bearing costs, or less.
Brian K.-
Somewhere I have the number for them, I'll have to dig it up after work.
The ST-745 bearings are not serviceable. The shaft is integral and cannot be removed, as far as I know. I have never heard of anyone removing it. I think the bearing races might be built into the shaft.
I don't have a part number handy for the aluminum housing spindles, but they are the current replacement for the 44/50" decks and newer, and were also used on a lot of different CCC machines with some minor variations in shaft length and pulleys, but the spindles themselves are basically the same. When my 44C needed new spindles, I used some spindles from a newer 48" lawn tractor deck from a 2000 series and shortened the shafts, and replaced the bearings and seals. The bearings for those are the same as the one of the front wheels bearings on millions of 60s-80s full-size Chevy cars, so they are cheap. Somewhere in my records I probably have the number for those too. Anyway, you can rebuild 3 of those for what one ST-745 bearing costs, or less.
Brian K.-
Somewhere I have the number for them, I'll have to dig it up after work.
Ok, so I am tinkering with my Original that I recently bought. The voltage regulator had yellow overspray all over it and I wanted to clean it up and repaint it. I took it off and removed all of the Yellow paint from front and back, but while working on it, I noticed that the resistor on the back of the unit is almost gone. The wire is still connected, but the round material that it was originally wound around looks almost like it was ground away. Has anyone had this issue? If so, how did you correct it without having to buy a brand new regulator? Can I purchase a resistor from an electronic store and solder it in place of this? And if that is possible, what ohm resistor would I need? What are you guys thoughts?
Thanks for any help!!
David L. Smith
NC
Thanks for any help!!
David L. Smith
NC
I believe the spindle number is 759-3479P. According to the CCS website Charlie believes it too.
David,
Looks like someone sandblasted it at one time.
If I were you, I'd get a new one and be done with it.
Looks like someone sandblasted it at one time.
If I were you, I'd get a new one and be done with it.
