Archive through June 23, 2010

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin H., I'm still in my 40's but I have two of those metal oil can spouts. They're not in the tool box but they are in the shed. They were mainly used to open up cans of Arctic Cat "Purple Power Lube" 2 cycle oil for the 1972 Arctic Cat, 292 Panther my parents bought new back in January 1972.

Me on the Panther, circa 1976.

 

[kphill]

kraig, I was organizing my tool boxs the other day and I was coming across tools that I have not used in years and thinking to myself that mechanics in their 20s would probably have no idea what some of this stuff was..I quess it does not make you old..Just experienced..

 

[kide]

Spark from a coil....
From the Procarcare.com website encyclopedia..

"The coil is the heart of the ignition system. Essentially, it is nothing more than a transformer which takes the relatively low voltage (12 volts) available from the battery and increases it to a point where it will fire the spark plug as much as 40,000 volts. The term "coil" is perhaps a misnomer since there are actually two coils of wire wound about an iron core. These coils are insulated from each other and the whole assembly is enclosed in an oil-filled case. The primary coil, which consists of relatively few turns of heavy wire, is connected to the two primary terminals located on top of the coil. The secondary coil consists of many turns of fine wire. It is connected to the high-tension connection on top of the coil (the tower into which the coil wire from the distributor is plugged).

Under normal operating conditions, power from the battery is fed through a resistor or resistance wire to the primary circuit of the coil and is then grounded through the ignition points in the distributor (the points are closed). Energizing the coil primary circuit with battery voltage produces current flow through the primary windings, which induces a very large, intense magnetic field. This magnetic field remains as long as current flows and the points remain closed.

As the distributor cam rotates, the points are pushed apart, breaking the primary circuit and stopping the flow of current. Interrupting the flow of primary current causes the magnetic field to collapse. Just as current flowing through a wire produces a magnetic field, moving a magnetic field across a wire will produce a current. As the magnetic field collapses, its lines of force cross the secondary windings, inducing a current in them. Since there are many more turns of wire in the secondary windings, the voltage from the primary windings is magnified considerably up to 40,000 volts. " That's why the spark happens when the points OPEN..

"To prevent the high voltage from burning the points, a condenser is installed in the circuit. It absorbs some of the force of the surge of electrical current that occurs during the collapse of the magnetic field. The condenser consists of several layers of aluminum foil separated by insulation. These layers of foil are capable of storing electricity, making the condenser an electrical surge tank.

Voltages just after the points open may reach 250 volts because of the amount of energy stored in the primary windings and the subsequent magnetic field. A condenser which is defective or improperly grounded will not absorb the shock from the fast-moving stream of electricity when the points open and the current can force its way across the point gap, causing pitting and burning. "
That's what the condenser is for...

Dennis:
That's why I use a burnishing tool, it cannot cut into the metal like a file. I remember that I used to get Delco points that seemed to have a plastic film (not on purpose!!) on the points. I hate tuneups that make the engine NOT run.. BTW - I've still got my Dad's Dwell meter from the '50s, nice chrome case Snapon IIRC.

Greg L:
70's - me too...Yaseu's, Brownings, Couriers, Demco's ,Swans, Drakes, Sonar BB, etc etc.. Also D&A Phantom 500's and Maverick 250's (with no bleeder resistors). These guys helped pay for a bunch of MY toys...

Gotta run, Kentuck's sent a whole bunch of T-Storms our way..

Kevin...My dad was a Ford mechanic when the Deuce was new... I've still got KR Wilson stuff specifically for flatheads

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin H., well some days I do feel

like the morning after I split a few cords of wood. Even using a hydraulic log splitter it's hard work.

Hmmm, I thought I could find an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> metal spout but all I could find was this:

 

[kweaver]

Kevin -

bite me

I'm not old , just Well Equipped !!

I forgot to take a pic of the GM dwell tool ... RATZ !

 

[kweaver]

Something KOOL !

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hey, I think I have a points file in one of my tool boxes. And here I thought it was just a small file with a wooden handle...

 

[kweaver]

Kid_e - I totally disagree with the definition of the condensor.
If it were just a "shock absorber" of sorts then the engine would run without it.

Radios - I use to "golden screwdriver'em". 148GTL to 310 channels.

 

[aschumacher]

Ken...'bite me'. I thought your last name was Weaver, not Biden !

 

[kweaver]

him too !

Charlie - I need permish to use the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet Forum pic of Bryan's Original to upload to make the Firefox Persona soez everybody with Mozilla can use it if they want to.

 

[dfrisk]

KEVIN H. - After YEARS of messy leaky oil can spouts I bought a REALLY Good one with the rubber lip insert that sealed the top of the can to the spout. Then about 2-3 yrs later ALL the oil co's went to the plastic bottles. But the spout is still in a sealed coffee can in the shop ready for use.

I'm so old I even remember ALL METAL oil cans. DAD used to use all FS, now called Growmark Industries oil & grease. He would buy oil by the case, it was available in four AND five quart cans as well as quarts. The preferred opener was a Church Key.

GERRY - Best idea Delco ever had was their "Uni-Points", points & condensor all in one unit. I never had a "No Start" after a tune-up but I did have a problem or two where I scratched my head for a while. Forget what I was doing but one afternoon I had all eight plug wires off of my Small Block Chevy and crossed the back two wires on the right hand bank. One plug was firing on the exh. stroke. Idling @ 700 rpm about every 4-5 seconds it sounded like a .410 Shotgun firing under the car from the headers and echoing around the barnyard.

 

[kfinnestad]

I am the proud recipient of a new bride and her original Cub.
It hadn't run since her father passed 6 years ago. I changed the gas and oil, spark plug and cleaned the carburetor. It runs like a champ. I used it once to mow the yard, washed it and put it away. When I went to use it 5 days later, the clutch wasn't doing its job. I depress the pedal and the gears grind. Connecting rods are solid, springs are intact, and pins in place. I do not know if the plates were replaced when her father restored it.

Where to start?

 

[dtanner]

kevin finnestad
You say you washed it? well I think your clutch is stuck and not releasing.That would make the gears grind,its the first place I would look there first.

I have a quart can of oil here ! and a rubber backed and earlier spoute and used them for a few years till they made screw tops. There was a trick to the old spout,it had to be aligned and pushed ito the can square or they would leak btdt.

 

[kphill]

Dennis, You got me beat..I do not remember the all metal quart oil cans..But I have used the glass quart oil bottles with the metal screw on spouts for adding oil from a bulk container..

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin F., WELCOME!

And CUBgratulations on the wedding and the Original.

As Don mentioned washing it may have caused it to rust somewhere in the clutch. The pressure plates on these do tend to rust together, even from humidity in the air and it's advised to park them with the clutch pedal locked in the down position. In your case it might be more likely that the bushing in the "clutch shaft pulley" is sticking a bit from setting for several years. As a test, start it with it in neutral with the clutch pedal depressed, keep the clutch depressed once it has started then see if it goes into gear without grinding.

 

[kweaver]

Kevin F - Does she have a sister with a SGT ???

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky,

Ummm, does Kathy read the forum?

 

[kide]

Kentuc<font size="-2">k</font>:
I've seen 'em run without, you'll see lots of spark (orange) at the points...Also keep in mind that a typical bad condenser is shorted, not open.

I made a lot of money off "golden screwdriver tuning"..and Uniden chipped radios, too.

I've not only got the quart and larger tin oil dispensers w/spout (check out the price of some of those on Evilbay), but a bulk oil tank with the pump, too. That should be painted in Cub colors....hmmm.

 

[kfinnestad]

Greg- yeah, the sisters wouldn't know an Cub from a Murray.

Don- it came shiny, I thought I was supposed to keep it that way. It is her baby.

Kraig- Tried the start in neutral trick. It worked the first time, but further shifting only made ugly music. I restarted a couple times, but it grinds each time I try to put it in gear.
I'm assuming the drive shaft shouldn't be spinning when in neutral?

It is 85% humidity in Northern Illinois currently

 

[mgonitzke]

Kevin-

Welcome to the forum, from another Rockford, Illinois resident