Kendell, FWIW, I was just responding to Bob's second post, but I agree, lack of a ground wouldn't cause blown fuses.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through June 22, 2008
- Thread starter mcaruth
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
This all sounds great about the bad coil, but I would question why it started after I rebuilt the engine. Previous to the rebuilding of the engine it worked fine. I did have a Professional adjust the electric clutch while the engine was out being serviced. Could it be a bad adjustment on the electric clutch?
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Kraig:
Ever seen an actual diagram of the PTO switch? at first glance it'd just be A to B for the coil, but is C to D and the safety switch the PTO starter lockout?
Bob: Dig up a volt ohm meter and measure the resistance of the coil to ground when it's cold and immediately after it's blown the fuse, while it's still hot - you'll have to disconnect the wire from the PTO switch to the coil to get a good reading. If it's the same both cold and hot, look for a wire shorting to ground between the fuse and the PTO - that circuit is from the fuse, to the switch and then to the coil... If it's lower when hot, suspect a bad field coil..
Ever seen an actual diagram of the PTO switch? at first glance it'd just be A to B for the coil, but is C to D and the safety switch the PTO starter lockout?
Bob: Dig up a volt ohm meter and measure the resistance of the coil to ground when it's cold and immediately after it's blown the fuse, while it's still hot - you'll have to disconnect the wire from the PTO switch to the coil to get a good reading. If it's the same both cold and hot, look for a wire shorting to ground between the fuse and the PTO - that circuit is from the fuse, to the switch and then to the coil... If it's lower when hot, suspect a bad field coil..
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Bob R. The first thing I would do is check your ground as you can get some weird symptoms without it. It will try and find a ground somewhere and one of the places is your throttle or choke cable wherever they touch metal. If a wire contacts the cable when it is hot it could short. On the early quietlines the ground was on the front right side from the starter to where the grill attaches to the frame.
On the later quietlines the ground ran from the right side where the tin gas shroud attaches to the frame to the engine.
If that doesn't fix the problem and the 20 minutes is consistent, it sounds more like some type of metal expansion. If it is a wire shorting it should be more random. If it is expansion then I would worry that the expert didn't get the field coil centered.
On the later quietlines the ground ran from the right side where the tin gas shroud attaches to the frame to the engine.
If that doesn't fix the problem and the 20 minutes is consistent, it sounds more like some type of metal expansion. If it is a wire shorting it should be more random. If it is expansion then I would worry that the expert didn't get the field coil centered.
I am not by any means trying to start the Electric vs Manual PTO, but... I love my "fuseless" manual PTO. Have not got my new to me wheel weights yet. I called my buddy today, he said ohh yea I forgot I am on vacation this week!
Not that it matters much, with the amount of A/C work I have parked in the yard.
Note: never tell anyone that you work on automobiles for a livin, cause ain't cub work gettin done round here.
Not that it matters much, with the amount of A/C work I have parked in the yard.
Note: never tell anyone that you work on automobiles for a livin, cause ain't cub work gettin done round here.
Granted Kendell, your cub(s) probably get worked more than mine. You havin a snowblower and me with a front blade, yer pullin double my duty! I was still on the #1 button when the 128 overhaul began, it wasnt til I got a new button and rebuild kit for the PTO. That I saw how worn it really was. All in all, 37 years of use seams good to me!
I reread your post, maybe not if ya aint using your cubs to mow?
I reread your post, maybe not if ya aint using your cubs to mow?
using the cell for a dsl line speed. Not too bad sure is a pain transfeering stuff over. OTHER GOOD NEWS, the 100 is back in the shed. time to try finishing it.Should have time for it with not waiting all evening for pages to load.
Todd, I'm with you, manual PTO all the way! Richard C. is gonna have a different opinion though. I believe Richard and I have agreed to disagree on the topic.
Kendell, on my #2 125 I've never replaced the PTO button in the 14 or so years I've had it. BTW, that #2 125 has been my main work tractor for the past 9 years, spring, summer, fall and winter. I did have to install a different PTO clutch though, the last one started slipping and one out of the 6 setscrews would NOT come out.
I ended up removing the PTO with a slide hammer and installed a used PTO that I got from Charlie. Charlie, did I ever tell you I didn't even have to rebuild that PTO you sent?
Jerry, I'll test your new connection tomorrow, I'll post some big photos for you. Now I'll have to find someone else to apologize to, Kendal H. perhaps.
Kendell, on my #2 125 I've never replaced the PTO button in the 14 or so years I've had it. BTW, that #2 125 has been my main work tractor for the past 9 years, spring, summer, fall and winter. I did have to install a different PTO clutch though, the last one started slipping and one out of the 6 setscrews would NOT come out.
Jerry, I'll test your new connection tomorrow, I'll post some big photos for you. Now I'll have to find someone else to apologize to, Kendal H. perhaps.
I am new to the hobby and am interested in restoring a 108 that I recently bought. I got the 108 for $150 and the previous owner stated that all it needs to get it running is a coil and ignition. It came with a snow blade and mower deck. I will probally work on getting the snow blade looking good before the deck because I do not have a big enough yard for the mower. I also want to know what model's parts interchange with the 108. I also might add that I got a snow blade and mower deck with the tractor. What color should the blade be?
rbedell
Well-known member
Bob R:
Another possibility is......that once the elec PTO clutch gets hot from use, the windings expand and short.
Here is a checkout procedure for the Elec PTO.
Once this situation, as you describe occurs, then I would get the DVM out and check the windings as indicated in the diagram.
Another possibility is......that once the elec PTO clutch gets hot from use, the windings expand and short.
Here is a checkout procedure for the Elec PTO.
Once this situation, as you describe occurs, then I would get the DVM out and check the windings as indicated in the diagram.
Dustin L., welcome!
Your 108 is what we call a Wide Frame. Generally, attachments from another Wide Frame should fit right onto your 108. Here's a list of other Wide Frame Cub Cadet models: 86, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650. FWIW, some don't consider the 1100 to be a true Cub Cadet Garden Tractor as it has a belt in the drive system and doesn't have the heavy duty transmission/rear end. There are other model Cub Cadets that use attachments that might fit but the list I provided is the best starting point.
Jerry, here's a few to start, just progress photos of the Original and #1 125 refurbs.
Original grill screen
Original head light parts.
Original clutch bracket.
Gas cap and engine coupler for the 125.
This is a clip for the 125 wire harness that goes on the right side of the grill shell. I blasted it primed and painted it then used some 3/4" heat shrink on it. I'm pleased with the results as it started out quite rusty and I almost tossed it out.
Below is what it looked like before I cleaning it up:
Original grill screen
Original head light parts.
Original clutch bracket.
Gas cap and engine coupler for the 125.
This is a clip for the 125 wire harness that goes on the right side of the grill shell. I blasted it primed and painted it then used some 3/4" heat shrink on it. I'm pleased with the results as it started out quite rusty and I almost tossed it out.
Below is what it looked like before I cleaning it up:
Well i`am out in the Cub shack to put in some time on my 147 and 129. Cleaning and preping parts for paint for the 129 and came up against a small problem with the foot rests on the 147. If i ever get these screws out ss bolts will be going in.Later and i like pictures of fresh painted Cub parts maks me not alone doing this lol
