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Archive through June 21, 2012
- Thread starter brhodes
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Chuck hmmm "20300035u530052". Have him recheck and see if it doesn't actually read something more like this: 2050059u530052.
dgallagher
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- Feb 12, 2000
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- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
I need a little advice. I have 6 Cub Cadets; a 125(14HP), 2 129's, 149, and 2 169's. I usually use most of them during the year on my 2+acres of yard at 2 locations. Both yards have several trees and bushes.
I am 72 years old , 2 knee replacements, 3 back operations and other assorted aches and pains. While I can still service and repair my Cubs, it is getting increasingly harder to get the decks off and get up off the floor. Many of my friends have the zero turn mowers and swear by them. None have ever owned Cub Cadets, however. Any of you older guys had this situation? Thanks
I am 72 years old , 2 knee replacements, 3 back operations and other assorted aches and pains. While I can still service and repair my Cubs, it is getting increasingly harder to get the decks off and get up off the floor. Many of my friends have the zero turn mowers and swear by them. None have ever owned Cub Cadets, however. Any of you older guys had this situation? Thanks
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
David G I wish I was closer to help you with the cubs, I know many people here will help you out with thinning your herd.
There is a thread in the sandbox on zero turns
sorry I am not alot of help
Do you really have 2 169s and if you do can you share the engine spec and serial numbers with us so Art can add them to the 169 data he is collecting
There is a thread in the sandbox on zero turns
sorry I am not alot of help
Do you really have 2 169s and if you do can you share the engine spec and serial numbers with us so Art can add them to the 169 data he is collecting
- Joined
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- Binder 1650
David,
My Dad bought a zero turn (which I talk about in the sandbox thread), but could never get use the levers after so many years of a steering wheel. Another problem he had was physically getting himself up and over the hump on his old tractor and some of the new ones. He dumped the zero turn and bought a Simplicity Prestige - expensive then and now. But it is easy to get on and off, has a tight turning radius and power steering. Less cost (but still expensive) models similar are the Simplicity Conquest and Broadmoor. They share the same frame and operator platform. For a new tractor, the new Cub Cadet GT 2000 series are good machines. I bought my Wife a Cub Cadet LTX1042 and even though it is a cheap tractor, it does a very nice job.
Before I make everyone sick with all this non-IH talk and get myself smacked down...
The way my Dad handles changing the blades on his Simplicity is with a MO-Jack. Using one of these might be the ticket to keeping your self in the IH tractor seat. Here is a link: http://www.tractorsupply.com/other-riding-mower-accessories/mojack-reg-ez-lawn-mower-lift-1023598?zoneMarketInfo=2-12&reqUrl=%2Fother-riding-mower-accessories%2Fmojack-reg-ez-lawn-mower-lift-1023598&langId=-1&storeId=10551&storeCity=city%2C+state&catalogId=10001&storeZip=24450&ddkey=http:LocationBasedPricingCmd
My Dad bought a zero turn (which I talk about in the sandbox thread), but could never get use the levers after so many years of a steering wheel. Another problem he had was physically getting himself up and over the hump on his old tractor and some of the new ones. He dumped the zero turn and bought a Simplicity Prestige - expensive then and now. But it is easy to get on and off, has a tight turning radius and power steering. Less cost (but still expensive) models similar are the Simplicity Conquest and Broadmoor. They share the same frame and operator platform. For a new tractor, the new Cub Cadet GT 2000 series are good machines. I bought my Wife a Cub Cadet LTX1042 and even though it is a cheap tractor, it does a very nice job.
Before I make everyone sick with all this non-IH talk and get myself smacked down...
The way my Dad handles changing the blades on his Simplicity is with a MO-Jack. Using one of these might be the ticket to keeping your self in the IH tractor seat. Here is a link: http://www.tractorsupply.com/other-riding-mower-accessories/mojack-reg-ez-lawn-mower-lift-1023598?zoneMarketInfo=2-12&reqUrl=%2Fother-riding-mower-accessories%2Fmojack-reg-ez-lawn-mower-lift-1023598&langId=-1&storeId=10551&storeCity=city%2C+state&catalogId=10001&storeZip=24450&ddkey=http:LocationBasedPricingCmd
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- Allen Schumacher
<font size="-2">Wow, you can use a power drill to raise and lower that jack. But ya still got to buggy-lug the deck out from under.</font> Small print so Charlie woun't see it.
Oh I'm watchin!
And fixin to jump on someone with both feet, if it continues.
And fixin to jump on someone with both feet, if it continues.
dgallagher
Well-known member
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- Feb 12, 2000
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- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
Oops!! I did not mean to stir Charlie up. I have been a participant on this site for many years. I am just getting older and wanted some advice. I will be quiet now.
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
David, your post should be ok you mentioned your cubs and that was the point, as for the other topic of zeros go to that thread there is alot there.
in the sandbox.
So dont go away
I know Chuck K said he could help you out and I bet there are a few others that would after they see your post. Any fellow cubber near David G??
any info on those rare 169 engines would help
in the sandbox.
So dont go away
I know Chuck K said he could help you out and I bet there are a few others that would after they see your post. Any fellow cubber near David G??
any info on those rare 169 engines would help
Even though I wanted to get back on the 1250 I ended up spending most of the day dealing with the nephs 128. I keep finding things that need attention like the manual lift handle. It was grabby when the button was pushed and wobbled then I discovered the chrome tube was bent right where it comes out of its seat in the casting. I had to use heat, penetrating oil, and a BFH to get it out after removing the retaining pin. The main roll pin was broken in three places but came out faily easy and I was able to remove the lift handle/unit. The inner rod was a remake and they never work as well as the OEM rod so that will be changed. They're pretty easy to fab up with a bend instead of a 90* welded piece on the end. The OEM bend is not 90*. Measurements and the bend are fairly critical but work so nicely compared the most fixes I've seen.
I ended up using the lift handle from the 1250 since I'm changing it to hydraulic. Between yesterday and today I put several hours into just this fix.
I also noticed the thrust button on the pto has wear and the set screws are not cooperating at all. They're soaking now and hopefully I will be able to get them out tomorrow. I remember going through this pto a couple of years ago and might have used a little too much thread locker. I even had to weld the wear button lever where the button goes in to build it back up. I believe it's real important to get a good fit here. The neph ran the pto without a wear button for a while and this is the reason for the thrust buttons condition.
Both rubber mounts are completely broken on the V/R. I was planning on unhooking the wires and removing the V/R with the seat pan but it started to fall out. The system is/was working and charging fine so I'll just do a "rigging" with wire to get it remounted.
What makes all of this even harder is the fact that my 1250 is ready to reassemble, which I'm excited about, and I'm forced to use delayed gratification.
When this job is done my shop will be closed to outside work.
How do you tell a cobbler to make some shoes for his children???
I ended up using the lift handle from the 1250 since I'm changing it to hydraulic. Between yesterday and today I put several hours into just this fix.
I also noticed the thrust button on the pto has wear and the set screws are not cooperating at all. They're soaking now and hopefully I will be able to get them out tomorrow. I remember going through this pto a couple of years ago and might have used a little too much thread locker. I even had to weld the wear button lever where the button goes in to build it back up. I believe it's real important to get a good fit here. The neph ran the pto without a wear button for a while and this is the reason for the thrust buttons condition.
Both rubber mounts are completely broken on the V/R. I was planning on unhooking the wires and removing the V/R with the seat pan but it started to fall out. The system is/was working and charging fine so I'll just do a "rigging" with wire to get it remounted.
What makes all of this even harder is the fact that my 1250 is ready to reassemble, which I'm excited about, and I'm forced to use delayed gratification.
When this job is done my shop will be closed to outside work.
How do you tell a cobbler to make some shoes for his children???
DTanner,
Catching up on my reading and saw the 782 with the loader and backhoe pics you posted. That tractor looks great. I am curious about how the cylinders for tipping the bucket are plumbed. If I am seeing correctly, it appears the main supply lines for them are located inside the arms. Is that correct? Do you have other pics of that portion of the loader?
Thanks, Rich
Catching up on my reading and saw the 782 with the loader and backhoe pics you posted. That tractor looks great. I am curious about how the cylinders for tipping the bucket are plumbed. If I am seeing correctly, it appears the main supply lines for them are located inside the arms. Is that correct? Do you have other pics of that portion of the loader?
Thanks, Rich
Won't be able to check this site until tomorrow morning, but I have a small dilemma with my 3 point on my 1200 that I never really thought to ask about before. Once a year for the last 3 years I've had to re tighten the bolt from manual lift connection point to the bar back to the 3 point casting. I did use a nylock nut that is now worn out and I need to replace. I can't believe this is a common problem, I did look at another quietline to see if I did it right and it looked the same to me. But that tractor happened to be at an auction I attended and only could "remember" what it looked like when I went back home. If anyone happened to have a photo or diagram of what it should be I'd appreciate it.
All of those nice tractors gets me wanting more Cubs again. I want to say this about "selling" to family. I had many lesser models of lawn tractors that I used to pick up for free in junior high and high school. Never had one of those or even my Case 220 spark an interest in my mom. Bringing home my 1200 brought out an interest in my mom and she'd take it up the road to her friends house with out asking me. I'd get home and find it gone, was easier than getting in the car to go a few thousand feet according to her.
All of those nice tractors gets me wanting more Cubs again. I want to say this about "selling" to family. I had many lesser models of lawn tractors that I used to pick up for free in junior high and high school. Never had one of those or even my Case 220 spark an interest in my mom. Bringing home my 1200 brought out an interest in my mom and she'd take it up the road to her friends house with out asking me. I'd get home and find it gone, was easier than getting in the car to go a few thousand feet according to her.
David i am 67 yo and have the bad hands and knees. I use a hoist to raise my cub cadets so i can repair the tractor or remove decks while standing or sitting in a chair. I stand the front or rear almost straight up with a hoist, and add a safety chain. I use a small floor jack and roll my decks straight forward from under the tractor. I don;t remove the deck to sharpen the blades. Just use a air wrench to remove and replace the blades.I can not lay down and repair anything any more. A belt hoist and ratchet wrenches are my best friend when working on cubs. Just my 02c
