Another reason to operate at full throttle is that most/all engine driven attachments were designed to operate at full engine speed for maximun efficiency of that attachment. My operators manual for the mower deck specifies full engine speed when mowing.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through June 20, 2010
- Thread starter wmiller
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Gerry-
Yeah, that's what I meant. I proofread that 3 times and never caught that...
Allen-
Basically, yes. The more fuel is burned, the more heat is produced, but I don't know how much of a difference there is in fuel burn between half throttle and full throttle, for instance.
Yeah, that's what I meant. I proofread that 3 times and never caught that...
Allen-
Basically, yes. The more fuel is burned, the more heat is produced, but I don't know how much of a difference there is in fuel burn between half throttle and full throttle, for instance.
Frank,
If you are asking me if the large L on a set of wheel weights stands for the Louisville foundry, I don't know that for a fact. I've heard that, but don't have anything that says that. If they are weights for a Cub Cadet or front of a Farmall Cub, that L is not on all of them, but to my knowledge Louisville made all the Cub castings after the foundry became operational in Jan 1949, and I assume that included the wheel weights. None of the other Louisville castings have "Louisville" on them that I am aware of, so I would think the large L would have to do with a pattern or mold identification rather than a foundry, but I don't know that for fact either.
If you are asking me if the large L on a set of wheel weights stands for the Louisville foundry, I don't know that for a fact. I've heard that, but don't have anything that says that. If they are weights for a Cub Cadet or front of a Farmall Cub, that L is not on all of them, but to my knowledge Louisville made all the Cub castings after the foundry became operational in Jan 1949, and I assume that included the wheel weights. None of the other Louisville castings have "Louisville" on them that I am aware of, so I would think the large L would have to do with a pattern or mold identification rather than a foundry, but I don't know that for fact either.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Brad and let's not forget the crook in the neck!
jmacdonald
Well-known member
While troubleshooting my electrical problem on my mod 70 can I swap out my voltage regulator with other narrow frame units? Are they all the same?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ken-
I hadn't thought of that. That works in air-cooled aircraft engines, too.
I hadn't thought of that. That works in air-cooled aircraft engines, too.
Lanny, here is a link to the 169 Hydraulics setup manual that Paul Bell mentioned.
169 Hydraulic Setup Manual
169 Hydraulic Setup Manual
I will say one thing about Matt's cooling air flow chart. The relationship between amount of air flow is directly proportional to engine RPM. However, engine load, fuel consumption, cylinder pressure & temerature are ANYTHING but. The engine speed control lever only controls the governor, not the throttle valve in the carb. I think you'd all be surprised how seldom an engine in a CC is actually "Wide Open". In the case of a K181/M8 in a CC running 3600 rpm with the mower engaged, tractor in neutral not moving therefore not mowing any grass I suspect the throttle blade would "probably barely" allow a 1/4" dia. pin to pass between the throttle blade and sidewalls of the venturi. Too many variables on that claim to list but if someone wants to pull their air cleaner off their CC 70 or ???? with a deck mounted and let us know what they find it would be interesting, not sure you could really tell just by watching the throttle linkage on top of the carb. Not sure how that amount of throttle opening would relate to percentage of actual HP the engine is producing.
SON & I actually started making a carb spacer for my K321 that I was going to install a vacuum port in to monitor theoretical percentage of load for tuning purposes based off vacuum. Problem is it's 3/4" thk steel roughed out with the plasma cutter. LOTS of finishing work left and I'm not really sure it would allow the governor to control engine speed properly.
MATT - Your comment about fuel burn rates.... Best comparison I can offer is on a 903 CID V-8 Cummins diesel. At full rated RPM & Load, 320 HP, the engine would burn up to 20 GALLONS of fuel per hour, maybe a touch more. At an 800 RPM idle letting the engine run all night to stay warm it would burn about three quarts of fuel per hour as near as I could figure, and it was a VERY inefficient burn, it would puke out a gray-white smoke after less than an hour that made people think it was blown-up.
The problem comparing a gas engine to a diesel is a gas engine has to run at a relatively constant air/fuel ratio, anyhwere from 12:1 to 14:1. A diesel burns fuel in direct relationship to the amount of torque the engine is producing and that can range from over 100:1 (very lean, actually detonating which is the way diesels run ALL the time) to somewhere in the single digits-to-one in the case of pulling engines.
I know, Another one of "Denny's l-o-n-g boring posts about engines". I'm actually trying to break Harry's record for longest post. And make people "Think". Chances are pretty good that you will not "over-heat" your engine mowing wide open, 3600 rpm. But with tuning or maintenance problems it's still possible. And it's also entirely possible to run much less than 3600 for an extended time without problems depending on the situation.
SON & I actually started making a carb spacer for my K321 that I was going to install a vacuum port in to monitor theoretical percentage of load for tuning purposes based off vacuum. Problem is it's 3/4" thk steel roughed out with the plasma cutter. LOTS of finishing work left and I'm not really sure it would allow the governor to control engine speed properly.
MATT - Your comment about fuel burn rates.... Best comparison I can offer is on a 903 CID V-8 Cummins diesel. At full rated RPM & Load, 320 HP, the engine would burn up to 20 GALLONS of fuel per hour, maybe a touch more. At an 800 RPM idle letting the engine run all night to stay warm it would burn about three quarts of fuel per hour as near as I could figure, and it was a VERY inefficient burn, it would puke out a gray-white smoke after less than an hour that made people think it was blown-up.
The problem comparing a gas engine to a diesel is a gas engine has to run at a relatively constant air/fuel ratio, anyhwere from 12:1 to 14:1. A diesel burns fuel in direct relationship to the amount of torque the engine is producing and that can range from over 100:1 (very lean, actually detonating which is the way diesels run ALL the time) to somewhere in the single digits-to-one in the case of pulling engines.
I know, Another one of "Denny's l-o-n-g boring posts about engines". I'm actually trying to break Harry's record for longest post. And make people "Think". Chances are pretty good that you will not "over-heat" your engine mowing wide open, 3600 rpm. But with tuning or maintenance problems it's still possible. And it's also entirely possible to run much less than 3600 for an extended time without problems depending on the situation.
Kraig .....thank you had it up and running last night ...it worked good tonite i will change the springs and cone over now what is supposed to go in the top hole where the piston hooks to make impliment down force?
Lanny, there is an optional "Float Lockout" pin that can be installed to provide down force. Here is a photo from the Operator's Manual that shows the clip in the "Float" position.
I have the opportunity to purchase a 982 from a friends dad. It recently started smoking and seems to kill when at idol speed. Otherwise the machine is clean and has never had a problem. I would love some input on 982's and what this might be worth. I have not seen many 982's. Thanks for any input.
STEVEN - 982's are nice tractors for mowing large areas. Most everything on a 682/782 is at least similar if not the same on a 982. There are specific differences like bigger wheels, tires, frt axle casting, steering linkage and ROSS steering gearbox is different than anything else IH/CC ever made or used. The difference in length is ALL between the steering console and seat/fender pan. Makes it real easy to stretch out when running and they really ride smooth over rough lawns with the longer wheelbase, wider tread and bigger tires.
982's were all ONAN powered and Onan parts are getting kinda scarce and very expensive.
Things to look for on 982's are individual rear wheel brakes, two pedals on the right in addition to the clutch/brake/neutral hydro pedal on the left. Also rear PTO, cat O 3-point hitch, and aux. front hyd. outlets.
The typical problems are with wear on the hydro trunnion and the infamous cork hydro gasket.
Tough to give an estimate of what it could be worth without actually looking at the machine and getting some idea of what's up with the engine. The engine in mine was rebuilt just before I bought mine ten yrs ago. The bill for machine work, parts & labor was around $2000 back then.
982's were all ONAN powered and Onan parts are getting kinda scarce and very expensive.
Things to look for on 982's are individual rear wheel brakes, two pedals on the right in addition to the clutch/brake/neutral hydro pedal on the left. Also rear PTO, cat O 3-point hitch, and aux. front hyd. outlets.
The typical problems are with wear on the hydro trunnion and the infamous cork hydro gasket.
Tough to give an estimate of what it could be worth without actually looking at the machine and getting some idea of what's up with the engine. The engine in mine was rebuilt just before I bought mine ten yrs ago. The bill for machine work, parts & labor was around $2000 back then.
