Archive through June 20, 2010
- Thread starter wmiller
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Going to do the staic timing today got some new points if not timed properly on .020 should I move them in first or out? Mine is overheating.
STEVEN - I've never really ran a 682/782. The KT17 Kohler that was stock in those tractros was rated 17 HP, the ONAN in a 982 is rated 19.9 HP but some say that was a "marketing ploy" so small tractors could use that engine without having to be tested @ the University of Nebraska Test labs so HP may be slightly higher.
I run a 50C deck with my 982 and have enough power for any lawn condition that the mower will still cut good. I've had it at one Plow Day and it had more than enough power to spin the lugged rear tires at will in some muddy conditions. I had between 70 & 75# of weights on each rear tire plus 125# of frt end weight which was pretty useless since I couldn't get enough traction to transfer any of that weight to the rear wheels.
Not knowing what and If your 782 needs any parts it's tough to say there would be enough swappable parts on a 982 to justify the $600.
A tractor with all the options I listed is worth more. I don't pay attention to what that stuff sells for here in the Classifieds but the options might be worth close to the $600.
You might want to investigate a re-power for the 982. There's a place around Indy that specializes in them and the picture on their website for the 982 & 984 (982 with ALL the options) is actually MY tractor. A 24 HP Honda repower kit is $1750 plus freight which cost my Buddy about $95 to ship a similar size/weight engine to Moline, IL.
The "What's it Worth?" or "Did I get a Good Deal?" posts are actually against the rules here on this forum. We all can give you information and ideas, but in the end the decision is between You and Your Chief Financial Officer.
I run a 50C deck with my 982 and have enough power for any lawn condition that the mower will still cut good. I've had it at one Plow Day and it had more than enough power to spin the lugged rear tires at will in some muddy conditions. I had between 70 & 75# of weights on each rear tire plus 125# of frt end weight which was pretty useless since I couldn't get enough traction to transfer any of that weight to the rear wheels.
Not knowing what and If your 782 needs any parts it's tough to say there would be enough swappable parts on a 982 to justify the $600.
A tractor with all the options I listed is worth more. I don't pay attention to what that stuff sells for here in the Classifieds but the options might be worth close to the $600.
You might want to investigate a re-power for the 982. There's a place around Indy that specializes in them and the picture on their website for the 982 & 984 (982 with ALL the options) is actually MY tractor. A 24 HP Honda repower kit is $1750 plus freight which cost my Buddy about $95 to ship a similar size/weight engine to Moline, IL.
The "What's it Worth?" or "Did I get a Good Deal?" posts are actually against the rules here on this forum. We all can give you information and ideas, but in the end the decision is between You and Your Chief Financial Officer.
snicklas
Well-known member
I have a quick question, and looking for a "place to start"
I was mowing last night with my 1450 and everything was working as it should. I had been running the tractor for almost an hour and needed to move some items in the yard tom mow around where they sit. I idled down and shut the tractor off. When I went to restart it, it would not turn over. I pushed it around to the garage to troubleshoot it. I found a couple of things:
1. The plastic connector to the voltage regulated is melted and the center connector is not connected. I will replace all 3 connector and re-connect.
2. When I turn the key to the start position, I see the amp gauge moved toward discharge but the starter does not turn, I do not hear a "click" from the solenoid that I would expect.
What would make the connector melt? The only thing that I can think of is the connection was bad causing extra heat. Is there something else that could have caused it to melt? Could the voltage requlator be damaged? It looks like all the heat was in the connector, but it could have transfered into the regulator. Any direction where to look would be greatly appreciated.
I was mowing last night with my 1450 and everything was working as it should. I had been running the tractor for almost an hour and needed to move some items in the yard tom mow around where they sit. I idled down and shut the tractor off. When I went to restart it, it would not turn over. I pushed it around to the garage to troubleshoot it. I found a couple of things:
1. The plastic connector to the voltage regulated is melted and the center connector is not connected. I will replace all 3 connector and re-connect.
2. When I turn the key to the start position, I see the amp gauge moved toward discharge but the starter does not turn, I do not hear a "click" from the solenoid that I would expect.
What would make the connector melt? The only thing that I can think of is the connection was bad causing extra heat. Is there something else that could have caused it to melt? Could the voltage requlator be damaged? It looks like all the heat was in the connector, but it could have transfered into the regulator. Any direction where to look would be greatly appreciated.
kide
Well-known member
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- Gerry Ide
Steven B:
Google "Cub Cadet Repower" ... you'll get all sorts of hits. I'm surprised Charlie hasn't twisted Aaron's (Xtrememotorworks) arm on this issue (with some of the bigger flat twins getting tough to get parts for).....
Google "Cub Cadet Repower" ... you'll get all sorts of hits. I'm surprised Charlie hasn't twisted Aaron's (Xtrememotorworks) arm on this issue (with some of the bigger flat twins getting tough to get parts for).....
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
982's with the 20hp Onan are noticeably more powerful than the 17hp/18hp Kohler twins. The 20hp Onan will put a hurt on a 20hp Kohler Magnum as well, just not as much of one. I have run 982's with the Onan, 20hp 782's, 18hp 782's, 17hp 782's, 1872's, and 2072's, as well as a 782 with a 18hp Honda repower. I would prefer the 20hp Kohler, only because they are so much cheaper to keep running, BUT the Onan is the one with the big torque!!!
That said, anything Kohler 18hp Mag or larger will be just fine in a 982 frame.
Personally, I would never use a 9 for parts for a 7, but rather the opposite, and use good 782 parts to make a great 982. The extra 5-1/2" of frame and bigger tires and front axle are welcome improvements.
That said, anything Kohler 18hp Mag or larger will be just fine in a 982 frame.
Personally, I would never use a 9 for parts for a 7, but rather the opposite, and use good 782 parts to make a great 982. The extra 5-1/2" of frame and bigger tires and front axle are welcome improvements.
STEVE B. - Thanks for the comparison. If I understand my engine service manual correctly, the Onan in a 982 only runs 3200 RPM, but in the little IH skid steer loader it was used in ran 3600 RPM. That's why even with the 26" tall rear rubber a 982 is only supposed to run 7-1/2 mph, not 8 mph like all other IH hydro's with 23" tall rubber. The math really doesn't come out correct on that but IH was NEVER real good about accuracy in their marketing material. The Onan is about 6 CID larger displacement than a KT17, about 14% larger for 17% more HP. Oddly enough an Onan has the same bore & stroke as the K241 10hp Kohler.
The cooling system on the Onan is light-years ahead of a K-series Kohler IMHO, My 982 blows grass & leaves around on the ground 4-5 feet ahead of the tractor when I mow.
GERRY - I doubt Aaron has enough capital yet to buy all the engines these other repower shops have to keep on hand.
When I checked the price on that engine for the 982 I was suprised to see they had two 24 HP Honda's, couple months ago all they had was a 23 HP B&S.
The cooling system on the Onan is light-years ahead of a K-series Kohler IMHO, My 982 blows grass & leaves around on the ground 4-5 feet ahead of the tractor when I mow.
GERRY - I doubt Aaron has enough capital yet to buy all the engines these other repower shops have to keep on hand.
When I checked the price on that engine for the 982 I was suprised to see they had two 24 HP Honda's, couple months ago all they had was a 23 HP B&S.
mgwin
Well-known member
I have another unusual question.
On a 122, what goes in the top of the steering column? The reason I am asking is because when I took my dad's apart it didn't look right. Here's what I found starting from the steering wheel going down.
First was the "steering column upper bearing" (the white funnel shaped plastic with a slit in it). It was turned with the funnel shape pointing up which seemed to be upside down according to all i've seen.
Second was the "bearing retainer" (IH 376480-R1) (the metal piece that slips down over the steering tube).
Third was the "steering column upper bearing/bushing (made of black plastic).
The white piece and the black piece have the same part number in the parts lookup.(IH 866105-R1)
The reason the white piece was turned upside down is because it would not go all the way down into the metal bearing retainer because it bottomed out on the black bushing underneath. Do I need to delete the white piece or what? Any info would be appreciated.
On a 122, what goes in the top of the steering column? The reason I am asking is because when I took my dad's apart it didn't look right. Here's what I found starting from the steering wheel going down.
First was the "steering column upper bearing" (the white funnel shaped plastic with a slit in it). It was turned with the funnel shape pointing up which seemed to be upside down according to all i've seen.
Second was the "bearing retainer" (IH 376480-R1) (the metal piece that slips down over the steering tube).
Third was the "steering column upper bearing/bushing (made of black plastic).
The white piece and the black piece have the same part number in the parts lookup.(IH 866105-R1)
I swapped the 42" deck off my 125 onto the 122. The 122 I got does have a 42" deck but I didn't get a chance to go over it and I know the other one is good.
I let the 122 mule drive on and just slipped the pivot pin out of the mule drive to attach the other deck.
Now I can start tearing down the 125 engine to rebuild that. Any tricks, tips or things to watch out for?
Jeff
I let the 122 mule drive on and just slipped the pivot pin out of the mule drive to attach the other deck.
Now I can start tearing down the 125 engine to rebuild that. Any tricks, tips or things to watch out for?
Jeff
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Marty-
You need the newer black upper column bushing. That funnel-shaped thing is just pressed lightly onto the top of the column, and you can pull it off with a slide hammer and use the new style column bushing.
You need the newer black upper column bushing. That funnel-shaped thing is just pressed lightly onto the top of the column, and you can pull it off with a slide hammer and use the new style column bushing.
kphill
Well-known member
Should have the 169 done this weekend.Have been working on it part time for a year..
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- Dec 21, 2007
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- Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
Steven, thought i would throw my .02 cents in about the 982 vs the 782 and thier coresponding engines. Just came in from mowing with my 982 and 50" deck and the stock 19.9 onan. Its got to be my best mowing tractor and most comfortable. The onan has a lot more torque in the deep grass and i can sure tell over my 782 with the 50" deck. Also i use a lot less gas with the onan than the KT17. Now in my other 782 i have a kohleer mag 20 and that is also a very good motor. If my onan goes south, i would spend the money on a kohler mag 20 if i can find one. they are getting kinda rare also. I have talked to many guys about the honda transplants and they say they are a nice smooth running engine, but you need a 24 hp to equal a kohler or onan 20 hp.
On my onan - i have went thru it when it was still in good shape. All i did was had the cylinders honed lightly and new rings, and new valves with a clean up on the valve seats. being the cylinders were clean, i tweaked the rpm's up to 3600 and she really humms. felt that if i cleaned it up it should last a lot longer. biggest thing to any of these engines is to keep the oil fresh and full. All i have ever used is Mobile 1 High Milage.
I agree with others - i would use the 782 as the parts tractor and use the SGT (982) as the keeper. I have moved most of my tractors over onto SGT frames. Only one i didnt do (yet) is my 782 loader.
Have fun with your tractors and no matter what you do - you got 2 of the best red tractors made!
On my onan - i have went thru it when it was still in good shape. All i did was had the cylinders honed lightly and new rings, and new valves with a clean up on the valve seats. being the cylinders were clean, i tweaked the rpm's up to 3600 and she really humms. felt that if i cleaned it up it should last a lot longer. biggest thing to any of these engines is to keep the oil fresh and full. All i have ever used is Mobile 1 High Milage.
I agree with others - i would use the 782 as the parts tractor and use the SGT (982) as the keeper. I have moved most of my tractors over onto SGT frames. Only one i didnt do (yet) is my 782 loader.
Have fun with your tractors and no matter what you do - you got 2 of the best red tractors made!
I have a nice set of diamond tread front tires on my Original. It appeared the previous owner didn't want to bend over while he painted the rims. Is there any known way to remove the paint from the tire? I was thinking of trying Xylene tomorrow. Black spray paint is plan B.
Marty
I have to agree with Scott. As long as your not restoring to original, you can go to the hardware and buy a lipped bearing for less than $5. I added a washer and plastic washer I made from a bucket lid. I used a 1 1/2 inch hole saw and a 3/4 paddle bit. I added these so there is no chance the bearing can work its way up the stearing shaft.
I have to agree with Scott. As long as your not restoring to original, you can go to the hardware and buy a lipped bearing for less than $5. I added a washer and plastic washer I made from a bucket lid. I used a 1 1/2 inch hole saw and a 3/4 paddle bit. I added these so there is no chance the bearing can work its way up the stearing shaft.
