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Archive through June 19, 2011
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Tom H.,
Thanks, I believe all will be well. The older gentleman I got this from was using it for parts for his 4 digit 80** something with fenders and headlights. Said he bought it new way back when. He wasn't offering it for sale though. I'm going to need a steering sector and a dash for it. At least I kept it from the crusher.
Thanks, I believe all will be well. The older gentleman I got this from was using it for parts for his 4 digit 80** something with fenders and headlights. Said he bought it new way back when. He wasn't offering it for sale though. I'm going to need a steering sector and a dash for it. At least I kept it from the crusher.
wmakowicki
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Messages
- 62
- displayname
- Wayne Makowicki
hydro valve assembly leak. The small hex head "valve assembly" is leaking fluid out the top the small vent hole has fluid coming out what would cause this. Is this an over pressure relief or is it a bad o-ring? It is called out as part #37 for the 1250.
Wayne M.
It's called old age, time to replace the valve.
Hopefully you can get by with replacing just the leaking one.
It's called old age, time to replace the valve.
Hopefully you can get by with replacing just the leaking one.
jchamberlin
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Matt: You win the prize for diagnosing two of the major issues with the installation of the MTD deck on my confuguliated 782, but I doubt you need any spare parts.
You are correct in your surmisal that the center pulley wasn't getting enough grip on the belt. You are also correct that the situation was exacerbated by the idler pulley.
I don't know if I could re-create the 46" deck you pictured, but I discovered that the deck as it was originally installed on the donor MTD looked like this:
(Model 13A0771H055, others similar)
I hope you can tell from the exploded view that the deck was actually driven from the LH pulley. To fit it to the Cub Cadet, the previous owner's mechanic moved the double pulley from the LH position to the Center position. This didn't really work very well, as my symptoms demonstrate (cutting only in the center on heavy grass).
The biggest problem I could see was that when the drive pulley was moved to the center, the idler pulley was in the wrong spot. Instead of "gathering the slack" in the belt, the drive pulley was pulling directly against the tensioner. This also meant that any resistance against the blades meant that the belt was pulled off the center drive pulley even more. The net effect was that I had an 18 HP motor getting less than 5 HP to the grass.
To correct the situation, what I did was to move the idler pulley to the other side of the deck using the same mounting bracket.
It isn't perfect, but I can tell you that it works a WHOLE LOT BETTER than before. I cut the grass over the septic tank and didn't lose any blade speed. I was able to get it all in one pass, not three!
The tractor is now less confuguliated than it has ever been, and I consider it to be fully functioning mechanically. When I get the 44 (or 44A, I can't tell the difference) deck fixed, painted, and installed, and figure out why the light circuit wants to flake out once-in-a-while, I will declare the tractor fully un-confuguliated. (I have to say though, Dennis Frisk was right, this tractor was a mess! I have certainly gotten an education getting it all sorted out.)
The tractor it came from looked like this:
This deck has been installed on MTD lawn tractors as long ago as 1988 up to at least 2009. There are references to Cub Cadet on some of the BOMs, so I'm thinking it got installed on some Cub Cadet lawn tractors too, but I can't determine which ones.
Finally, you missed the fact that the belt driving the pulleys is 1/2" and should have been 5/8". This change alone would have probably gone a long way to resolving the issue. But it wouldn't have done anything about the awful "bouncing" the belt was doing while running. It runs very smoothly now. (I'll worry about reversing the rear pins at a later date, they're working where they are now.)
I'm really happy with it, but I can't wait to get the IH deck on it.
You are correct in your surmisal that the center pulley wasn't getting enough grip on the belt. You are also correct that the situation was exacerbated by the idler pulley.
I don't know if I could re-create the 46" deck you pictured, but I discovered that the deck as it was originally installed on the donor MTD looked like this:
(Model 13A0771H055, others similar)
I hope you can tell from the exploded view that the deck was actually driven from the LH pulley. To fit it to the Cub Cadet, the previous owner's mechanic moved the double pulley from the LH position to the Center position. This didn't really work very well, as my symptoms demonstrate (cutting only in the center on heavy grass).
The biggest problem I could see was that when the drive pulley was moved to the center, the idler pulley was in the wrong spot. Instead of "gathering the slack" in the belt, the drive pulley was pulling directly against the tensioner. This also meant that any resistance against the blades meant that the belt was pulled off the center drive pulley even more. The net effect was that I had an 18 HP motor getting less than 5 HP to the grass.
To correct the situation, what I did was to move the idler pulley to the other side of the deck using the same mounting bracket.
It isn't perfect, but I can tell you that it works a WHOLE LOT BETTER than before. I cut the grass over the septic tank and didn't lose any blade speed. I was able to get it all in one pass, not three!
The tractor is now less confuguliated than it has ever been, and I consider it to be fully functioning mechanically. When I get the 44 (or 44A, I can't tell the difference) deck fixed, painted, and installed, and figure out why the light circuit wants to flake out once-in-a-while, I will declare the tractor fully un-confuguliated. (I have to say though, Dennis Frisk was right, this tractor was a mess! I have certainly gotten an education getting it all sorted out.)
The tractor it came from looked like this:
This deck has been installed on MTD lawn tractors as long ago as 1988 up to at least 2009. There are references to Cub Cadet on some of the BOMs, so I'm thinking it got installed on some Cub Cadet lawn tractors too, but I can't determine which ones.
Finally, you missed the fact that the belt driving the pulleys is 1/2" and should have been 5/8". This change alone would have probably gone a long way to resolving the issue. But it wouldn't have done anything about the awful "bouncing" the belt was doing while running. It runs very smoothly now. (I'll worry about reversing the rear pins at a later date, they're working where they are now.)
I'm really happy with it, but I can't wait to get the IH deck on it.
So why is all this MTD stuff on this page?
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Charlie: I'm trying to straighten out my 782. Have patience. I'm getting there.
So straighten it out in the MTD/CCC section.
You oughta know by now, I have no patience.
Under Edit,
I'm betting that Cub Cadet serial number plate says Cleveland Ohio on it!
You oughta know by now, I have no patience.
Under Edit,
I'm betting that Cub Cadet serial number plate says Cleveland Ohio on it!
I wonder how long it will take Jeremiah to post a pic of that plate.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Sorry Charlie, I went to bed.
I didn't know where to post it. Technically the tractor is a CCC model, SN 714899, but it has the cast the cast iron rear end and as I understand it is identical to the IH 782s in almost all respects but the nameplate, which is visible in one of the shots.
I realize that Cub Cadet Corporation didn't manufacture the tractor with the MTD deck, but the MTD deck came with the Cub Cadet that was given to me. I already had $200 in the deck before I ever found the forum. I've got the 44" IH deck in the back of my truck now looking for someone who can sand blast it. As soon as I get the IH deck together it will go on the 782. Until then I'm just trying to "run what I brung."
Altough I did feel funny posting the stuff from the MTD site, it was the key to my understanding why my mower wasn't working too well. I thought someone could learn from my experience. Finally, I still think that there were some Cub Cadets made with this mowing deck, and I'm awfully curious to find out which ones. I thought someone might be able to identify them from the isometric drawing.
If you feel the two posts together with Matt G.'s response need to be moved to the MTD/CCC section, them move them to that spot and tell me where you put them.
I didn't know where to post it. Technically the tractor is a CCC model, SN 714899, but it has the cast the cast iron rear end and as I understand it is identical to the IH 782s in almost all respects but the nameplate, which is visible in one of the shots.
I realize that Cub Cadet Corporation didn't manufacture the tractor with the MTD deck, but the MTD deck came with the Cub Cadet that was given to me. I already had $200 in the deck before I ever found the forum. I've got the 44" IH deck in the back of my truck now looking for someone who can sand blast it. As soon as I get the IH deck together it will go on the 782. Until then I'm just trying to "run what I brung."
Altough I did feel funny posting the stuff from the MTD site, it was the key to my understanding why my mower wasn't working too well. I thought someone could learn from my experience. Finally, I still think that there were some Cub Cadets made with this mowing deck, and I'm awfully curious to find out which ones. I thought someone might be able to identify them from the isometric drawing.
If you feel the two posts together with Matt G.'s response need to be moved to the MTD/CCC section, them move them to that spot and tell me where you put them.
I am getting close to to the end of repairing my cub 1650. Have had all the electrical and engine issues sorted out but am finding a carb replacement will be in order (just worn out). I can't seem to find a replacement unit (not rebuild kit new carb). Please help.
Fred
Fred
FRED B. - Tom H is correct, new Carter/Kohler carbs have not been made for twenty years. The WLBRO is all that's being supplied for parts now as a complete carb. And from reports I've heard they do not allow the engine to run as well as the Carter/Kohler carb's because they have no main fuel adjustment.
Either rebuilding your current carb or finding a better one from the classifieds would be a better option.
Either rebuilding your current carb or finding a better one from the classifieds would be a better option.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Fred B.-
What's wrong with your current one? If the throttle shaft is worn out, that is fixable with a throttle shaft bushing and a new throttle shaft, if necessary.
What's wrong with your current one? If the throttle shaft is worn out, that is fixable with a throttle shaft bushing and a new throttle shaft, if necessary.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Matt G and others - hoping you could help with this. In a response message to Wayne S below, Matt mentioned "If the needle goes all over the place that means it's broken or getting close". This was concerning the voltage "regulator". My question is about the "meter" doing this at just certain rpm/speeds. I've had several of the volt meters that "jump all over the place, usually at part throttle. Generally at idle they will show discharge, jump all over the place at part throttle (meaning jump quickly back and forth from full discharge to full charge) and then when increasing the throttle they show good charge. Any suggestion or idea what's causing this and how it could be resolved so that it works/reads correctly? I really don't want to replace these meters that have the IH logo in the center.
Thanks for your help,
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they do get jumpy)
Thanks for your help,
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they do get jumpy)
HARRY - Your referring to "Volt meters" but I think you mean amp gauges. Current has to pass thru amp gauges to complete the circuit so a low reading or jumpy needle can mean a couple things depending on the failure mode. If the needle itself breaks off the mechanism it can still pass current but not register correctly. If the sensing mechanism is failing it won't pass current.
There are brand new amp gauges available with the IH logo in the center of the dial face. Not sure if our sponsors have them but I'm sure they could get them if you want them.
To trouble-shoot your current gauges I suggest getting your multi-meter out and checking amperage at several different places on the tractors at various engine speeds. It's all about DATA aquisition!
There are brand new amp gauges available with the IH logo in the center of the dial face. Not sure if our sponsors have them but I'm sure they could get them if you want them.
To trouble-shoot your current gauges I suggest getting your multi-meter out and checking amperage at several different places on the tractors at various engine speeds. It's all about DATA aquisition!
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Dennis F - you're absolutely right, I was referring to Amp Gauges. There were so many electrons flying around I didn't know which was which. Thanks for the insite.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
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- Allen Schumacher
Matt, Dennis and others Re; Harry B's amp meter.
Its my understanding that there are 2 windings in the voltage regulator...one to reg. the voltage and the other to reg. the amps. Both function by pulsating the field power. If this is actually correct, is it possible that his regulator could be flakey ??
PS: I dont think those amp meters were of any 'high quality' anyway.
Its my understanding that there are 2 windings in the voltage regulator...one to reg. the voltage and the other to reg. the amps. Both function by pulsating the field power. If this is actually correct, is it possible that his regulator could be flakey ??
PS: I dont think those amp meters were of any 'high quality' anyway.
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