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Archive through June 18, 2007

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I am having engine problems with my 62 cub (7Hp). I have a new battery, but cannot get any fire to the plug or points. I have power from the voltage regulator to the coil and from it to the condensor and over to the points but no fire in the points or to the plug? Any ideas?
Ron
 
Ronald B
Sounds like you need a new set of points, or a good cleaning of the ones in the tractor and set at the proper gap. .020 gap is a great starting place.
 
NOT MY DAY:
Got an e-mail from the seller of the 782D I is was purchasing. Mowed with it and blew it up. What a bummer. At least he was honest enough to let me know before I drove 475 miles to pick it up. What do rebuild kits for the 782D run? Can the crank be turned .010 without hurting it? If he considers less than original price, I may still go after it.
 
Depends on the price on that 782d, rebuilding on of those little diesels can get quite pricy, depending on what damage is done. I have seen the yanmar equivilant push 3k once all the machine work and parts were bought. You need more info from him on what exactly happened, locked up, threw a rod ect. If the price was right, there have been seveal cub cadet diesels parted out on ebay lately, so there is your source for parts if you can handle rebuilding a complex little engine. Let us know what you do. I know for the right price I would get it! Give me a good summer and winter project. Good Luck Mike
 
Just a note, my e-mail that was originally listed crapped on me today, so any messages need to go to the one in my profile, Thanks
Glen
 
KentuckyKen, No that's not mine. I do remember that picture tho'... For some reason I'm thinking it's John Lang's. Not sure why but I thought he was doing that. Guess I'll slide back and lurk for a while more. Thanks Guys.
 
Wes, have the cyl. deglazed with a dingle berry hone and put in a new set of rings. Just be sure to wash the cyl. with hot soapy water and a soft brissel brush to get all the grit off. Also, mark the lifters so they go back in the same holes.
 
Frank M: Yeah, find out more about what happened..If the guy isn't familiar with them, gelled diesel at the tank outlet will just kill the engine and no amount of cranking will start it. BTDT.

Myron B
 
Frank..

those kubota diesels are stout engines...... you can still get parts, as they use them in truck refrigeration units..... everything is heavy-duty inside...... they come in 2,3,4 and 6 cylinder versions, if ya want to play a little...
 
FRANK - Local CC dealer that Charlie & I know had a pair of newer diesels several years ago. One had been over-heated and blown up with 1250 or so hours on it and a complete engine rebuild. The other tractor only had something like 250 hrs and was in MUCH better shape in all respects. The price on the rebuilt tractor was almost $2000 higher than the newer tractor to give You some idea of the cost.
 
KENtucky, that custom you posted a photo of was being built by a Mike Schultz from Kiel, Wisconsin. I tried a couple of years ago to track him down with no luck. He also built a Cub Cadet 4x4 70 using a shortened CJ5 front axle. The 70 also had a front end loader. The right front wheel of the 70 is visible in that photo you posted.
 
Frank M: If you are gonna need it, one of the sponsors in the pretty boxes above should be able to get you IH Blue Ribbon Service Manual GSS-1509 for the Kubota Diesel engines. Its a good how-to...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Ok I'll bite. I've got a 59M shreader grinder and it never had springs (got it out of an old barn, if they are missing I wouldn't be the least bit suprised). Where do they go? I haven't torn the interior down yet cause it still works and looks good.
 
Dean,

59407.jpg
 
I solved my clutch mystery. I appreciate your input. I tried to locate the post from last week but couldn't. recap - I wasnt getting any power to the wheels on my 124 in any gear and the clutch wouldnt slow the drive shaft down consistently. It was a sheared pin where the drive shaft goes into the rear end. its was all twisted up. dont know the name of the part, but thanks for the help.
 
when I hold the clutch in the driveshaft spins for a few seconds. its doesnt diengage immediatly. Do I need a clutch kit?
 
Erik, I'm not a gear drive expert by any means but I think it could be as simple as the bushing needing to be lubed or replaced or your clutch pedal needs to be adjusted. Or it could be normal, all my Cub Cadets are Hydros (that is until I get my Original refurbished and put back together....)
happy.gif
Refer to the Operator's Manual or Service Manual for the clutch adjustment procedure. If you don't have a manual, you should get one as they are quite handy to have as you <blink>will</blink> eventually need to have it.

59409.jpg
 
ERIK - If Your tranmission input shaft spins for 1-2 seconds Your clutch is fine. If it spins for 5-10 seconds You may be having the clutch plate stick on the driver pins spinning the clutch pressure plates & drive shaft or the pilot bushing Kraig posted may be dry as He said.

I went as far as to weld up an input shaft brake many years ago for My 72. Unfortunately I had to remove it this spring due to some other changes I made to the tractor.

On another note....GREAT NEWS.... I got a call yesterday....My new 72 decal kit is in..... My 72 IS getting a refurbish this summer!
clappy.gif
My 26 yr old rattle-can paint job had seen better days! And the 39 yr old decals were in worse shape yet!
 
Erik-

Grease that bushing Kraig is talking about, and if that doesn't help, the engine might not be exactly in line with the transmission, which can also cause this problem. My 582 did this and I had to shim the motor to get it to line up. You might try loosening the bolts holding the motor in and moving the engine around a bit to find the place where the driveshaft binds the least, and then re-tighten the bolts.
 
Erik - DON'T grease the bushing. Matt's not been here long enough to remember the disscusion years ago about that. Grease will just collect grit and make it worse. A dry film lube is better and like Kraig I'm not that familiar with the gear drives since I've not tore into the driveline on my 122 but if they don't use an oil impregnated bronze bushing find one. Polish up the shaft end before installing.
 

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