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Archive through June 18, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dkeller

Active member
Joined
Mar 6, 2006
Messages
29
displayname
Daniel M. Kelller Jr.
please everyone do me a favor, I know this probably isn't allowed, but this auction just came up, i won it 2 months ago, the guy never shipped it and screwed me out of shipping, after 2 months of headaches I got my 250$ back now he relists it, please no one bid
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-OF-10-CUB-CADET-ERTL-FARM-TOY-TRACTOR-IH-129-682-2_ W0QQitemZ130126084739QQihZ003QQcategoryZ2497QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

beware of seller!!!
 
Jason:
It is the one that was on e-bay at the same time the 1450 w/loader that you got. I was watching that real close and wondered who got it.
Looked like a real clean setup. I was also watching a loader in Evansville In. but can only buy so much at one time. I got a second 782 yeserday that I had made an offer on so had to pass on the loader. Am going to try and pick up the 782D on Thursday. Pick up the other 782 today. Also have to sette up with a client that swapped some work for a few cubs. Cub Count has exceeded 50. Throw in other large and small tractors and it is almost 60.

Chipper-Shredder Question

I do have a question...was the Chipper Shredder ever mounted to an X82 series tractor? I tried mounting mine but the PTO is located in a different postion and cannot move the pulley on the jack shaft to mate with the PTO. If none available, I will have to fabricate one.
 
I will add something to the greedbay thing.
If BUYERS would file a Non Preforming Seller on those kind of jerks, ebay would can their butts!
It's just like non paying bidder alerts, 3 strikes and your OUT!
 
Frank M. -

A yellow shredder on a red tractor? Sounds like a real hot dog...

Seriously (who, me?), again, the x82's used wider belts. So you'd need a different pulley anyway. Doesn't mean you can't machine yourself a longer shaft and get a wider pulley and make it work, though...

That said, a wideframe's hood bangs into the hopper when opening - I would think there would be more issues with an x82's hood/grille...
 
I have done a search and found lots of posts about the IH tillers but I haven't found the exact info. I'm looking for. My questions are these:
- How many different models of tillers were made and what were the main differences in each?

- I have a 126 and a 1450. Which tillers would work best for each tractor? Will one tiller work on both?

- Do I have to have a sleeve hitch or just the CC 3 pt. hitch to tow the tiller?
 
1, 1A, 2A, 2B, I think. 2B is meant for the 82 series tractors and has a 5/8" belt, 2A and 2B don't have removable extensions to my knowledge and are 36 or 38" wide, can't remember. 1 and 1A have removable extensions to reduce it's width to 26" I think. They are all pretty much interchangeable except for the 2B, which you'd need to change the pulley on the gearbox. You only need the IH 3-point and a spring assist if you have a manual lift tractor.

I would recommend putting it on the 126 if it has a creeper. It is much easier to maintain constant speed with the gear drive. I have a 1A on my 128 and love it. You could go back and forth between your 1450 and 126 but the loooooong belts would be different.
 
Bryan M.
I know the belt size is diffeent. The main problem is that the PTO is farther forward wrt the QA bracket. The bottom plate of the QA will not allow the pulley to move forward enough to align with the PTO. The whole jack shaft including pillow block need to move forward about 3 inchs. I have used the Chipper on my 1200, 1450 and 1650, but also like to use my repowered 782 (M-18) They both say INTERNATIONAL.
 
Bryan,
Several years ago, you posted the information and Cat. # from McMasters & Carr regarding the support springs used for the support of the main body of the shredder/grinder that you owned. I have searched the archives available for the post to no avail. Do you by chance still have that information? The springs in the 59M that I purchased have rotted beyond recognition. TIA
 
Tire question:

I'd like to go w/ 26-12-12's on the rear of my 1450. I have seen this done, but can it be done using the stock rims or do I have to go wider?
Also, I'd like to go up to 18's on the front for better ground clearance and to help level the tractor. Can I install 18-9.5-8 tires and still have clearance from the steering/axle/etc?
 
Can anyone tell me why I am not getting any spark out of my coil on my 1650. I have so far replaced, the coil, the condenser, the ignition switch, spark plug, spark plug wire. I looked at the points and they appear to be ok. I have power going into the coil. I have power on the positive and negative side of the coil. Is that suppose to be that way? Also, when I am trying to start it, the positive battery cable and the ground wire from the motor to the frame become very warm. What is going on here. What am I missing? I am stumped. Please help!
 
Nate:

The FIRST thing to do is, clean up your battery cable connections (both ends). You have to have full power to roll the starter over and supply enough voltage to your ignition coil. Warm cables indicate a high resistance (or poor) connection.

With a VOM meter, it is normal to see 12VDC on the (+) coil terminal (black lead to ground) when the Ignition Sw is in the run position. The points simply turn the ground on/off to the coil.

I would next suggest, that you pull the points out. Clean them up. Make sure where they mount to the block is clean and good metal contact. Re-install points, gap them, and then clean the points with some sort of cleaner or some 320 grit sandpaper to ensure the removal of oil film on those contacts.

Here is a simplified Kohler Ignition Circuit for your assistance.

59399.jpg
 
I pulled the engine from my 149 on Saturday before it got to hot and humid. I pulled the pan tonight. Here is a picture of what I found. Any guess what this used to be? I think I need some new parts.
59402.jpg
 
Mike - It was THERE , I swear !
I went back to check and I seen it ... dang gremlins
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Wes - Change the oil and yer ready to go ;) OUCH!

Nate - While you're re-doing your wiring why don't you take notes and let us see where you had it mis-wired.
 
Matt D.,
I have had the owner's manual, parts manual, and Kohler manual for years so I think I am covered there.
The sad part is I bought this used and was told it had a new short block put in a few years before that. I think it was more like a new block. I had to pull the crank out of it shortly after I got it to have it ground .010 under since it mic'd out at 1.497. The bore was a perfect, round standard size. It only has 52 hours on it since then.

Next question, do I put new rings in it again with just that few hours or just rough up the bore a little and put it back together after the new governor is installed?
 
Well, it looks like I'm the owner of another 782, KT-17II dual hyd. machine...a virtual twin to my 1st, and I think the same 1984 build year.

Seems that Northern IN tractors like to migrate to Central IL!!!! 1st Kurt's 782, then Kurt's dad's 582, and now Shannon's old 782........the earth must have some sort of strange gravitational pull here or something!!!
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It will be interesting to see how far off the serial numbers are between the 2 tractors...it can't be much.
 

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