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Archive through June 17, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ccote

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
167
displayname
Christopher Cote
Matt - after runnning a loader on a tractor with manual steering and a hand-lever to control the hydro, you will be thinking seriously about that foot-control! You need four hands - two for the steering wheel, one for the hydro, and one for the loader!
 
Ouch ....bumped my head again. Hey Charlie, how about posting..... ummmmm - <font color="119911">colorful buttons</font> .... for the last posts on a page before archive ......... you know, they could say something like "Third to last", "Second to last" and ........ oh, never mind.
 
For what it's worth, I'm a big fan of the electrolysis process. It's not fast (I've wondered if a 24v charger would speed things up), but it's quiet, steady (as long as the anodes are kept clean), and non-explosive. I tried a big plastic Rubbermaid type tub, but the weight of 40-50 gallons of water was too much for it. The process seems to break the bond between the paint and the metal. The washing soda is relatively cheap, and found in the laundry detergent section of most grocery stores. Rebar makes a good anode, but I think a smooth piece of scrap metal is easier to keep clean. Am I up to 2 cents worth, yet??
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I love the look of yellow Cub parts in the morning! (....and one little silver one.)

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Last Night I removed my 42in mower deck for a tune - up. I was wondering if it is time to improve/modernize it? I put new square tip Oregon blades on it last year and it helped. I know the 42in deck is not the preferred one. But this deck could pass for new-old-stock. I got it last year on a 124 and I mounted on my dependable 106. Any ideas of what you guys suggest. How about a high speed pulley?
Merton from Eastern North Carolina
 
free bed frames from the side of the road make the best anodes....
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Merton, I sure like my 42" stamped end decks, I have several of them. If they are properly setup they do a great job of mowing. This style deck has a bad rap for being easily bent from people using them as a step to mount/dismount the tractor though I have not observed this with mine. They do need to be kept clean on the bottom as the grass clippings seem to build up more so on this model. I just do regular cleanings, it isn't that hard to remove the deck flip it over scrape it clean and reinstall it. I do plan on refurbishing one of them soon and when I do I plan on painting the bottom with graphite paint to help prevent the grass buildup.

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
 
hey guys i just thought i would throw my 2 cents worth in on hyd. fluid. we always used hyd. fluid with R&O to help keep fluid from foaming up as bad. it also helps in letting those seals last longer as it keeps the fliud cooler. IMHO.
 
Kraig-
You're a painting machine!
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Wait till it comes time to put it all back together and you can't remember where anything goes....
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Whats the correct part number from a kohler for a fuel pump rebuild kit that will fit a 782 with a KT 17 series 2? The spec number is 24302 and serial number is 162320346. The places I have called have said you have to buy the entire pump. I did not think that was correct. I have an e-mail into Chris Westfall at Cub Cadet Classics but have not yet heard back for him. Thanks for any help.
 
Kraig, when I had all my 147 parts hanging from racks in the garage this past winter, my wife called it "a redneck"s wind chime"! They made a real nice sound.
 
Well tore apart my O steering gear. two kits needed to repair them ( bearings,cage,races).
Paint delivered in the am dealers has to see what i`am painting. later Don T
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Art, that is one of my fears especially since there's a mixture of Original and 125 parts hanging there!
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James, I try to keep enough room between the parts so they don't hit one another, I want to minimize the chips. I have a bunch more parts that after the paint setup for more then a week I wrapped up in paper for safe keeping. My shed workshop is only 10'x18 so there's not much work space. But you are correct some of the parts do make a nice sound when they bump.
 
Kraig: Nice job painting around the air cleaner decal!
Don: You ain't never gonna get those bearings back in there!!
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Frank, thanks, however, that's actually a new decal that I applied after I painted the air cleaner cover.
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So..........

Does anybody know where Ken is these days?
(The "grumpy" one, not the "Ide" one...)
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The last emails I received from KENtucky were back on June 9th and 10th. He sent me a photo of himself holding a 9 pound 14 ounce Brown Trout he had caught and released. The fish was a beauty the guy holding it was as ugly as ever.

Richard T., thanks!
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I have been using the electrolysis method for some time now to remove rust and paint on my 169 rebuild project and other assorted parts. It sure beats trying to sandblast or wire brush all the paint/rust off. Old mower deck blades work good for anodes as well as rebar. For small parts I use a 5 gallon plastic bucket to "cook parts" (as I call it) with three blades wired together hanging around the edge. I use a short chain to suspend the part being cleaned in the water/washing soda mix with the upper end tied to a bar laying across the top. For bigger parts I use a 30 gallon plastic trash container with six rebar pieces hanging around the perphery. My power source is a small battery charger. Generally I cook the parts for a day or two and the paint pretty much flakes off. A little time with the wire brush or sandblaster and the part is clean and ready for paint preparation. I've read that lower six volt voltage is better for speeding the process along versus higher 24 volt voltage.

On another note, went to RPRU in Missouri last week and had an enjoyable time. Cub Cadets were well represented at the show and seemed to be a popular means for getting around the grounds to look at everything. Saw two of Steve B's red Cubbies there! Several folks brought some neat attachments that you don't get to see everyday. A number of Cubbies for sale as well.
 

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