Archive through June 15, 2008

[mgonitzke]

Chris C.-

Good, I'm glad to hear the cylinders are easy. The rods are a bit pitted on the ends, but I think some emery cloth will go a long way there.

There's a picture in Hank Will's book that shows an identical loader on a 129, so it probably wouldn't take much to put it on the 782. I want to say that the tractor weighs more than 1500 lbs. You can see how close the trailer tires are to the fenders...

 

[mjrobilotta]

chris cote you dont by chance have a relative in the bradley bourbanois illinois area named gene by any chance?

 

[digger]

Kurtis H.
You might want to check out the FAQ page for the wiring diagram.

http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[mbounds]

Kurtis H: Something else I strongly reccommend is to move the chassis ground point from the pedestal (where IH put it) to a bolt on the starter/generator bracket. 45 years or so of rust, corrosion, etc., have induced so much resistance into the electrical circuit, it has degraded, and often kills, the electrical path. Moving it to the S/G bracket solves the problem without disassembling the entire tractor, sandblasting, cleaning, repainting, and reestablishing good electrical paths throughout the ground side of the electrical circuit.....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[jwentz]

Ccote, on the topic of hydraulic cylinders; I have a loader that seems to bleed down after it gets warm. I have been told that the fix would be to rebuild the cylinders. Are those o-rings what would be the cause of this? i am also daunted, but want to give it a try. I rebuilt the hydraulic pump and that wasn't too bad (I only put it together backwards three times....

).

 

[ccote]

Boots - no relatives in IL. Cote is a very common name.

Matt - the cylinder rods should be chrome plated, I wouldn't take an emery cloth to them.

John Wentz - if your cylinders are like the ones I had, then new o-rings will fix them right up. My loader would droop down over time, it got so bad that I had to hold the bucket curl lever back all the time to keep if from dropping. After I rebuilt the cylinders, I couldn't believe the difference. Not only did they not droop, but the power the loader had was unbelievable.

 

[mgonitzke]

Christopher C.-

They are. I'm not taking emery cloth to the whole thing, just the pits on the end. I don't want the new seals to get torn up.

 

[ccote]

Matt - are you going to try and put the loader on one of your diesels? That would be sweet. Then add power steering and a foot-pedal control for the hydro, and you would be all set!

 

[mgonitzke]

Chris C.-

I should update my profile. I no longer have the 1512. I think I'll put it on my gas 782. I have to fix the engine in it first. Foot control probably won't happen, but independent rear brakes might. I have to fix/sell two other cubs to make some room and $$$, and then I'll probably tear the loader all apart to fix the cylinders, repaint it, and make new mounts for the 782. I really don't want to put this on a NF; I am too tall for them...

 

[kide]

Richard C:
Before you get into caustic or other dangerous chemical paint and rust removal processes, try the electrolysis method suggested by Scott Tanner.. Setup for a mower deck would require a shallow "pool" , water, a box of Arm and Hammer washing <u>soda</u> (not soap), a battery charger and some scrap metal for the anodes (as shown in the page Scott listed for stripping a trailer). The benefit is that the water itself remains non-polluting versus what you get with lye, etc., it's cheap, and will remove loose paint along with rust. If I was stripping paint with a chemical paint remover,I'd still use this first to get the rust off and all of the loose paint (in stripping lathe parts recently, I removed almost 100% of the original enamel..) The main reference page I've used is here .