wsdrake
Well-known member
Steve that is one beautiful 782D. I bet that thing has a ton of torque! Have you ever calculated how much torque it is actually producing??
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Archive through June 14, 2016
- Thread starter hydroharry
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
elamott
Well-known member
129 electrical
Just want to clarify something. When I said that the power on the positive side of coil would go out when the points closed, I had all of the wires hooked up and the switch on. I had the meter grounded to the motor and the positive lead on the positive side of coil with the hot wire attached. I would think that the hot wire would stay hot. Why would it go dead when the points close. This one shows how little I know about electrical.
Comments appreciated
Earl
Just want to clarify something. When I said that the power on the positive side of coil would go out when the points closed, I had all of the wires hooked up and the switch on. I had the meter grounded to the motor and the positive lead on the positive side of coil with the hot wire attached. I would think that the hot wire would stay hot. Why would it go dead when the points close. This one shows how little I know about electrical.
Comments appreciated
Earl
J
jclazar
Guest
Serial No. 2050630U60417* Poor IH Cub Cadet at the scrap yard today. I think I understand the story behind why it was junked. The 44" mower deck was badly rusted away, and the electric power take off unit was missing a few ball bearings. Then upon further examination, I noticed there were no lower ISO engine cradle mounts remaining at all. No seat.
I removed the serial tag, as I collect those too and have a few now. I just ran out of time to remove as much parts as I could along my way to work this morning. So here is what I got:
The aluminum nose was the absolute best I've ever seen on a Quiet Line model. Upper grill screen and IH emblem near perfect condition, though slightly color faded, t-bolts included.
Rear red reflectors were in near-perfect condition. Got the two bulbs with them also.
Got a nice complete carb, coil and spark plug wire, starter, automatic forward and reverse hydro pump valves, a set of sheet metal screws for the tunnel cover, a good set of Kohler points and a nice plunger, a perfect air cleaner gasket, the steering wheel IH stamped center cap, and a good set of the quick attach springs. I think that was all, for $10 ! I'd like to go again in the morning to get the double-rag drive line, and another load of parts off it.
I was pretty happy today with that, as some of these things are better than what I have now on my 1450!
Steve B, Nice set-up!
I removed the serial tag, as I collect those too and have a few now. I just ran out of time to remove as much parts as I could along my way to work this morning. So here is what I got:
The aluminum nose was the absolute best I've ever seen on a Quiet Line model. Upper grill screen and IH emblem near perfect condition, though slightly color faded, t-bolts included.
Rear red reflectors were in near-perfect condition. Got the two bulbs with them also.
Got a nice complete carb, coil and spark plug wire, starter, automatic forward and reverse hydro pump valves, a set of sheet metal screws for the tunnel cover, a good set of Kohler points and a nice plunger, a perfect air cleaner gasket, the steering wheel IH stamped center cap, and a good set of the quick attach springs. I think that was all, for $10 ! I'd like to go again in the morning to get the double-rag drive line, and another load of parts off it.
I was pretty happy today with that, as some of these things are better than what I have now on my 1450!
Steve B, Nice set-up!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Earl L.-
What about plug and plug wire?
The reason you don't see 12V with the points closed is because the circuit is complete. There should still be some voltage at the + terminal because the coil does not have zero resistance, but it will be closer to zero than 12V.
How much resistance does the coil have across the terminals?
What about plug and plug wire?
The reason you don't see 12V with the points closed is because the circuit is complete. There should still be some voltage at the + terminal because the coil does not have zero resistance, but it will be closer to zero than 12V.
How much resistance does the coil have across the terminals?
Earl you have a bad connection somewhere in the ignition circuit. Possibly a wire almost broke into or a switch going bad. Try a jumper directly from the + battery post to the coil + post. If this solves the mystery then you can start tracing the circuit for the problem. Hope this makes sense.
