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Archive through June 12, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Rob-
Just a couple of miles down 303. Born and raised there. POR-15 of course recommends their own but it's pricey. I have had good luck with Rustoleum brand. I get it at Autozone.
 
CHRIS R & DAN G. - while the "tear-drop" shaped headlights from an H or M Farmall would not be correct for a Cub Cadet, the 6V vs 12V is a non-issue. Those old lights use a bulb which can easily be changed to convert 6V to 12V. Even the later "Flat back or pancake" lights used from around 1952 till 1958 when the 460/560's were introduced can be switched from 6V to 12V by changing the sealed beam element.

Both my old Farmall's have been converted to 12V alternators and the lights were changed to 12V very easily.

It may be easier to just buy new lights. I've bought from these guys and was very happy with the rear combination work & tail light. http://www.oemtractorparts.com/shop4/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=129
 
TERRY D. - I've had the hub spin in a couple S/G pulleys in the past. They frequently take ALL the HP the engine in a CC can make when running attachments. Once they spin you can't even start the engine, the pulley spins on the hub. So anytime I have a pulley off I put a couple tack welds between the hub & pulley on the flat back side of the pulley. Since you're fixing the worn keyway you might as well fix the S/G pulley too.
 
back to my light question
it seems like the farmall h and the m use the same housing
shouldn't the only difference be the bulb??

actually dennis answered my question

thanks
 
Chris R.
Like Steve B. said, the 403 and a couple other combines are the only ones that have the EXACT same lights.
You do have to watch though.
Some of the hopper lights are not the same. The have bigger light rings and some even have deeper/larger housings.

Having just gotten back from South Dakota where the old combine lights have not been snagged, they are still around, LOL
 
Brian: I had a chipper shredder that would run perfectly for quite some time...like an hour...then suddenly spool down and quit for no reason. I'd walk over and pull the starter and it fired right back up, ran for another hour, then quit again. Nobody ever figured out why but two explanations kept coming back:

1. The coil would "swell" with heat and somehow lose it's ability to export juice; something to do with the laminations of goop and paper inside the coil. (I'm skeptical..but the price of a coil is cheap. I also don't understand coils.)

2. The float bowl would slowly drain because a restriction in the little shut-off valve in the fuel line would not allow enough fuel into the bowl under periods of load. The few seconds it would take me to walk over and pull the cord was enough to refill the bowl. Then, after a while, it would drain again depending on load.

I believe #2 was the reason...but, then again, the engine would not falter and stumble, it would QUIT. That had more of an electrical profile to my thinking.

#3 could be that it was haunted or just lazy.
 
Kraig: I checked out the straps...they are exceptional. I'm going to point my wife to the site and remind her of my birthday. BTW, my son's middle name is my mother's maiden name. Not all that common a thing to do these days.
 
I had an unbelievable storm come through last evening around 5:30 or so. It took down about a 1/3 of one of my big yard maples. If it wasn't for the cedar tree you see in this pic the 124 would be flat. You can barely see my Ford 4000 with the harrow. It's in the shed that is now covered with maple tree. I don't think there's much damage to the shed fortunately.

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I have since gotten the 128 out and both tractors will be working all day...one pulling limbs down and the other taking them to the woods pulling the large yard trailer.
 
Wayne, WOW!
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Good to know you and the Cubs are OK. Hopefully the shed and Ford are OK.

Craig E.,
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Charlie, did you mean to write "...they were still around." I'm guessing you didn't leave many/any combine lights in SD? At least not for long.
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