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Archive through June 12, 2013
- Thread starter kshultz
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sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Bill J.
RE: 10W-40
I have always been told that 10W-40 was a blend that was pushed past the limits of the polymer chain additives that gave it the 40W protection factor in the 10W base stock. These polymer chains are very long, and when subjected to shear under high heat and stress (like an air cooled engine) they would break in half, effectively creating 10W-20 oil out of your 10W-40........not good for an old Kohler. This didn't hold true for the 30W polymers, as they were short enough to prevent breaking in half in 10W base stock, or for 20W-50 for the same reasons.
If it were mine, I'd stick to the 30W or possibly full synthetic 10W-30, provided it doesn't use oil on the 10W-30.
"oil is oil....some is better than none" is true, but with the cost of a rebuild these days, $1 or $2 savings on oil doesn't seem to be good economy in my book. That said, if all I had available was 10W-40 and it needed to be topped off to finish the job, I'd use it.......and change it soon thereafter
I'm sure there are those out there with much more knowledge on this topic than I......just something I remember from my IC engines course in college.
RE: 10W-40
I have always been told that 10W-40 was a blend that was pushed past the limits of the polymer chain additives that gave it the 40W protection factor in the 10W base stock. These polymer chains are very long, and when subjected to shear under high heat and stress (like an air cooled engine) they would break in half, effectively creating 10W-20 oil out of your 10W-40........not good for an old Kohler. This didn't hold true for the 30W polymers, as they were short enough to prevent breaking in half in 10W base stock, or for 20W-50 for the same reasons.
If it were mine, I'd stick to the 30W or possibly full synthetic 10W-30, provided it doesn't use oil on the 10W-30.
"oil is oil....some is better than none" is true, but with the cost of a rebuild these days, $1 or $2 savings on oil doesn't seem to be good economy in my book. That said, if all I had available was 10W-40 and it needed to be topped off to finish the job, I'd use it.......and change it soon thereafter
I'm sure there are those out there with much more knowledge on this topic than I......just something I remember from my IC engines course in college.
Steve B.
And the code words in your post are?????
And the code words in your post are?????
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Farmall H lights were 6 volt, not 12 volt like your Original. Try 403 combine lights, or something similar if you want the same style (but beware, most of these have been scrounged up already by those "in the know"
)
Evening all - wondering if anyone has used JB Weld to true up a worn keyway on a crankshaft. On the pto side, the first half or so of the keyway is fine but the half closest to the block is worn a good 16th or more on one side. I've heard of it being done but have no personal experience with it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Terry - JB Weld is an epoxy plastic, nothing more. It'll break down with any amount of shock. The inertia of the clutch/starter pulley combined with the slow down/speed up of the engine during a combustion cycle will force the key sideways and quickly eliminate the JB Weld. You could try making a key that is wider on the shaft half and standard width on the PTO hub half - no different really than the offset key used for changing timing on small engines..
The Grump just shivered, got heart burn and he doesn't know why....
The Grump just shivered, got heart burn and he doesn't know why....
Gonna check with a local machine shop to see if maybe they can fix it but I did think about just going with a longer key and filling the worn area with something. Was hoping some type of epoxy would get the job done but not sure now.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Terry D - I think you're gonna find the machine shop saying they can fix it but cost you an arm and leg, and then some. I suspect they'll say they could cut you a new key way with the crank out.
Now, it's hard to tell exactly what fits where in your pic since I can't see the end of the shaft, but seems to me you'll have a 1/2" to 1" of that crank exposed between where the basket pulley fits and the edge of the ending - so most of that area will be exposed and not need a key in it anyway. I'd still try using a longer piece of key stock and then cutting a step in the area where the PTO bearing rides. Seems to me having the key a little longer on the PTO of the basket would help if the standard length key wants to slip to the side under the basket pulley. This is one of those where you're going to have to try a few pieces of key stock until you get one that is just right.
And now, having said all this - I don't understand why I'm seeing those marks from a set screw on the bottom of the keyway slot in the shaft, unless of course someone tighten the set screw down with the key inserted past the set screw hole. Maybe that's how this occured - the key was father back than the set screw and over time the loose key wore off the edge of the keyway slot??
Now, it's hard to tell exactly what fits where in your pic since I can't see the end of the shaft, but seems to me you'll have a 1/2" to 1" of that crank exposed between where the basket pulley fits and the edge of the ending - so most of that area will be exposed and not need a key in it anyway. I'd still try using a longer piece of key stock and then cutting a step in the area where the PTO bearing rides. Seems to me having the key a little longer on the PTO of the basket would help if the standard length key wants to slip to the side under the basket pulley. This is one of those where you're going to have to try a few pieces of key stock until you get one that is just right.
And now, having said all this - I don't understand why I'm seeing those marks from a set screw on the bottom of the keyway slot in the shaft, unless of course someone tighten the set screw down with the key inserted past the set screw hole. Maybe that's how this occured - the key was father back than the set screw and over time the loose key wore off the edge of the keyway slot??
Harry - been a while since I took the engine apart and don't remember anything about the set screws, etc. but I would guess that you're correct as for the set screw gouge in the keyway. I'll slip the pulley and all back on and see exactly where the key needs the most support in the keyway and go from there. Worst case I have another crank that hopefully hasn't been ground since I just had that one ground -.010 and just got the new rod yesterday. May have to have the other ground. Being new to these Cubs one lesson I'm learning is to check stuff good BEFORE I spend money on it. Appreciate all the advise from you, Tom and Gerry.
Terry D.
To add to what everyone else has suggested.
Rather than have the key way built back up which will cost more.
Get a longer piece of key stock, have it welded on one side only (the side that's worn on the crank. 3 or 5 small welds works great and doesn't heat the crank up as long as you wait a little between welds. Kinda like spot welding on a little larger scale.
Then file that side down so everything fits over the weld.
That way if you ever need to remove the key or it wears, you can pry the non welded side up to remove it and you still have the weld material left to fill the gap.
Just my 3 cents having BTDT.
To add to what everyone else has suggested.
Rather than have the key way built back up which will cost more.
Get a longer piece of key stock, have it welded on one side only (the side that's worn on the crank. 3 or 5 small welds works great and doesn't heat the crank up as long as you wait a little between welds. Kinda like spot welding on a little larger scale.
Then file that side down so everything fits over the weld.
That way if you ever need to remove the key or it wears, you can pry the non welded side up to remove it and you still have the weld material left to fill the gap.
Just my 3 cents having BTDT.
I have a longer stepped key on my K301 Killer Kohler. Not sure where David Kirk got it but he provided it to me when he built "Killer". Hopefully this will prevent any key slot wear.
Correct, just make the key the same length and the basket pulley slot.
OEM keys are short for some reason, and don't cover the entire width of the key way in the pulley.
OEM keys are short for some reason, and don't cover the entire width of the key way in the pulley.
Terry, that's the reason for the stepped key. See my post below yours. I think for my K241 Killer Kohler build I'm going to go with a full length stepped key.
Well - think I'll go with the combo approach. Weld a bit on the worn area, file down for new key, and go with the step idea for that little extra support. I'll report back once I make some progress. Below is a pic of the engine I'm working on - bored +.010 and going in my 122.
